Ken Ross

As can I...and I'd bet many arrive at the 'no difference' conclusion between 4K & HD while watching on Safari. Many are still unaware that Safari won't do 4K on YouTube.

Just out of curiosity, what was your shooting approach? Were you shooting only 15-20 second clips and then turning off the camera? I ask because some people do have a use case just like that and for them it's useful information. Thus far all the testing seems to be hit the record button and time it until it overheats. That's certainly valid for many other use cases.

And not everyone wants to use an external recorder.

Unfortunately not. At first I thought it was after downloading 1.03, but upon further testing, the exposure changes differently than before, but still looks very awkward. Generally speaking, if you don't go full manual, you'll have stepping or something like it.

Andrew, one thing I've noted that I haven't seen discussed much, is the color shift when shooting with an A7iii with PP off to HLG. It seems to me, contrary to what you'd think, the color accuracy appears to take a hit when in HLG mode. Greens in particular don't appear natural relative to how they appear when shooting SDR. I'm not referencing the EOS Pro Color.

I spoke with Fuji tech late this morning. Apparently this is their repair group, so I was impressed with their knowledge. The bottom line is, according to the tech, the ramping is the nature of the beast. You can somewhat lessen it with auto ISO, but it’s always going to be there. He knew exactly what I was talking about when I was comparing Sony or Panasonics handling of this relative to the Fuji. It amazes me that other than a couple of reviews, most reviewers never discussed it.

Yes, the slider is a bit more indicative of what I'm seeing, but actually worse than what he shows.

Relative to auto ISO, that’s what I thought too. However locking down both aperture & shutter-speed and letting ISO ride, resulted in the same crude ramping. Perhaps it was a bit better, yet still nowhere near as smooth as the Sony or Panasonic. I know my camera isn’t defective since my tests at B&H with 2 different X-T3s yielded the same results. I’ll try some more tests today. Another anomaly I found is with the built-in audio. When shooting 4K SDR or HLG, I have always used an Oppo 4K BluRay player’s USB inputs to attach a card reader and then output, via HDMI, the signal to a 4K TV. This enabled me to quickly pop the card out of the camera and preview the just shot 4K footage. I never had a problem with video or audio using this method with either the GH5 or the A7iii. However with the X-T3, although the video is perfect, the audio is nothing but static. It appears there is something different about the audio recorded directly to the SD card. Interestingly the audio is fine when played on the computer and it’s also fine after editing and played on the Oppo. Weird.

Relative to Sonys and Panasonics it’s pretty bad. Shooting the same scenes the same way, the difference are very obvious. Whether I run n gun or have the time to be more careful, I still care about quality. For me, run n gunning should not preclude getting quality shots.

So I’m wondering if anyone has any ideas on this X-T3 issue. I’m new to Fuji, so it may be my ignorance of the system. When shooting video, unlike my A7iii or GH5, I get an ugly exposure stepping with changes in light. The Sony & Panasonic are quick & smooth in their reactions to any changes in light intensity, so this is a new phenomenon for me. Additionally, the X-T3’s reaction to these changes seems to be slower than the other cameras. In googling up this issue, it seems that the only recommendation short of full manual, is locking down iris & shutter and allowing the camera to set the ISO. However even with this approach, I still see a stepping rather than a smooth transition as exposure changes. Since I do a lot of run n gun shooting, full manual is impractical. I should mention these results are with the kit lens. However in a visit to B&H, I saw the same behavior with other Fuji lenses. This is really disappointing to me and I’m scratching my head as to why something so seemingly basic, has not been perfected by Fuji.

I tested 2 X-T3s yesterday at B&H. As a point of reference, I have the Sony A7iii & GH5. With a Fuji OIS lens (not used in the video you referenced), the stabilization is better than on my A7iii with IBIS. I don't find the IBIS of the A7iii particularly impressive, it's much better on the GH5. However the OIS in the Fuji lenses appear excellent and actually are better than OIS + IBIS on the FF Sony.

Nope, the GH5 uses a UHS-II interface. Here ya go: Manufacturer Camera Model Slot 1 Slot 2 Announcement Date Notes FujiX-T1 UHS-II January 28, 2014 FujiX-Pro2 UHS-II UHS-I January 14, 2016 Dual SD card slots, however only Slot 1 supports UHS-II FujiX-T2 UHS-II UHS-II July 7, 2016 Dual UHS-II Slots LeicaLeica SL (Typ 601) UHS-II UHS-I October 20, 2015 Slot 1: UHS-II, Slot 2: UHS-I NikonD500XQD UHS-II January 6, 2016 Slot 1: XQD, Slot 2: UHS-II OlympusOM-D E-M5 II UHS-II February 5, 2015 OlympusOM-D E-M10 II UHS-II August 25, 2015 OlympusPEN-F UHS-II January 27, 2016 OlympusOM-D E-M1 II UHS-IIUHS-INovember 2, 2016Dual SD card slots, however only Slot 1 supports UHS-II PanasonicGH5 UHS-II UHS-II January 4, 2017 Dual UHS-II card slots SamsungNX1 UHS-II September 15, 2014

I'm using the 64 GB Lexar UHS-II card with a stated speed of 150MB/s. In my GH5, the SanDisk Extreme, UHS-I, SDXC Class 10 card, with a stated speed of 90MB/s, is ready for the next 4K clip much quicker than my Lexar. So much for stated speeds. So it's not a question (at least in my case) of 'reliability', but shooting speed.

I am currently using the Lexar Pro 1000x, UHS-II Class 10 cards. Although I have no problems with them and have had no issues recording 4K, they are slow to write. So if you need to do some fast run N gun, upon ending your last clip, you may not be able to record your next clip for several seconds. That's the biggest difference I've found relative to my SanDisk. But I'll say this, it's enough of a difference that next time I'd get the SanDisk.

I'll tell you this, if I was traveling to a place as beautiful as that, I'd be sure to capture footage in the highest resolution & bitrate possible and, if I was determined to slow motion, I'd consider doing it in post to avoid the inevitable deterioration in resolution by doing in-camera slo mo. The other alternative is to do two takes, one in the slo mo and the other in the highest resolution possible.

Emanuel, I just don't like the custom AF settings. I've tried many and wasn't particularly happy or impressed with them. 1-area seemed to be the most reliable.

Tap to focus AND focus lock and you're free of pulsing. It doesn't have to be tap to focus which I almost never use since I'm a EVF user. I use 1-area AF and then press AF Lock. Done.

Oh no no! There's a setting that allows you to simply press the button in and you can then release it and still hold focus. Edit: The operation you MUST engage is "AF/AE Lock Hold". Once you set this to 'on', you press the button to lock focus, release it, and it holds your focus. To me this is absolutely, 100% essential, to make this a terrific way to avoid so many of the AF issues.

That's correct Emanuel. Tap to focus + focus lock, works very well and stops any background issues.

And I've been pretty successful (most of the time ?) using the central area AF and keeping the subject within that area. But with that said, as I've already mentioned, I welcome the upcoming improvements.

I always found it fascinating how the foreground can stay in focus, yet if you watch, you can see some pulsing in the background. You'd think that would have some impact on the foreground too. I'm actually also amazed at how many people seem to focus more on the background than the subject. I did an early test of the GH5 AF in a shopping mall, and it stayed in focus on the subject, but the background did, on occasion, show that pulsing. I got a comments from a few posters that seemed to only see the pulsing and never the fact that the subject remained in focus. I can understand that a pulsing background can be distracting, but still... Oh well. Of course using AF lock, where possible, totally alleviates that issue.

I know of no solution, this has nothing to do with platituudes. So you'll need to work around it. I shoot video almost exclusively and in terms of how I shoot, I have no need for what you're looking for.

No camera company makes a camera whose controls satisfy everyone. It will never happen.

I've been using AF lock not just on my G85 & GH5, but on Sonys with PDAF. No matter how good the AF is, the camera still doesn't know what you want to focus on.

AFS (not AFF) must be selected both within the camera setting in the menu and on the external AF switch. If the menu setting is set to AFF or if the external AF switch is set at AFC, the manual focus override won't work.