Anaconda_

Thanks guys. Shooting in a car is exactly what I'll be using this lens for, and I like the point about reducing digital sharpness. The lens seems to be pretty soft in the corners, especially wide open. That said, the speedbooster will make it f2.8, so if I stick to using f.4 I've technically stopped the lens down and that might actually help a little. Going to see it tomorrow and will probably pick it up... Will keep you guy posted. Thanks for the help.

Hey all, I hope the holiday season's been treating you well. I'm looking for a wide full frame lens and keep coming back to Canon's L 17-40 f4. It's a pretty 'old' lens, but is amazingly low priced second hand. Is this still a reasonable lens to be looking at? It'll be going on a speedbooster and be used in tandem with the 24-105 f4. Essentially, they're both f2.8 and I figure will match characteristics pretty well.

I don't think they do record ProRes RAW.

I don't know much about the hardware, but you could get the Blackmagic Intensity Shuttle second hand. They're pretty cheap now and give you HDMI in and out via USB3.0 or Thunderbolt (depending on which model you buy). I'm not sure how LUTs and focus peaking thing, but at least this way you can monitor through any NLE's capture process. To be honest though, the original 5 inch Video Assist would fit the bill pretty well for your needs. It is very cheap second hand, and will come down more when the new models are readily available. It's a much smaller footprint than a laptop and you can mount it on the camera for the shoots where you are near the camera, but want a better view of your shots. I don't think the price difference between the VA and the Intensity Shuttle is all that much. I'm sure there are also other options available to you, but these ones spring to mind as affordable options.

Thanks, that's almost perfect. But it also disables the aperture ring on the lens... Unless I'm missing something else?

I know how to get my shutter to 1/50, but is there a way to have 1/50 as default shutter in Video mode, but complete Aperture priority for stills? I'd like to be able to flick between stills and video, but 1/50 is a little too slow for stills. Can I lock the SS in for certain modes? Edit: I realised I can use the T option on the shutter dial to preset shutter speeds.

Great tutorial man. Really well explained and simplified process, thanks!

So I got home and updated and AF on the 24-105 is now pretty much perfect. But as far as I can tell the IS still isn't working. Does anyone know what the problem might be? I know with the BMPCC4k older firmware on the Viltrox fixes the IS, where as newer firmware doesn't work... is there a similar tactic on the Fuji version? Maybe downgrade to a firmware from the same kind of time?

I have the Viltrox for my Fuji XT3, AF works like a charm on the 50mm 1.8, but seems to be terrible on 24-105. That said, I only tested the second lens in low light, so that could be playing a role in my success. Also, IS doesn't appear to work on the 24-105, but I may need to update the adapter... I've not had it long, so can't comment on the quality of the glass, but for what I've seen it doesn't appear to be much of a factor for me. EDIT: I also have Viltrox for MFT-EF and EOSm-EF and neither of those give me quality problems. @colepat Doesn't the 18-35 vignette with a booster?

Can you install Data Rescue on your mac? Not to rescue your data, but in my experience it can read anything even if Disk Utility can't, and you can try to mount it from there. I think there's a free version that limits the amount you can backup, but like I say, this is to see if you can mount the drive. https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/10259/data-rescue

Is it USBc on both ends?

Why not 400mbps? How about AF settings? I'm yet to find a setting that doesn't hunt when it's locked onto something - using 35mm f2.

Although I’m not using it, the Leeming LUT setup guide says dr200 and 400 do strange things to the image. Will definetly try your suggestions though, thanks.

Hi all, I'm a little late to the party, but I just picked up my XT3 and I'm pumped to get using it. It's main focus will be on family kind of stuff. For work I use Blackmagic, so I'm a little overwhelmed with the menus and settings etc. - Does anyone have a good setup guide to get me started? I'm fairly sure I want to shoot with Eterna, but I'm happy to be swayed into the many other options. My starting point from what I can see is : h265 Long GOP Eterna DR100 Highlight 0 Shadow 0 Color 0 Sharpness -4 NR -4 Interframe NR - Off Peripheral Light Correction - Off (What even is that) Then for video AF - I assume constant and face tracking? Any help and hints are greatly appreciated!

Seems like a pretty big difference. Thanks!

At the same price, what's the difference between this LUT and the One LUT? (Aside from light source options) https://www.j-ballard.com/theonelut

Absolutely. Professionally I don't use any camera with IBIS, and personally I haven't filmed anything with my GX80 for about a year. Instead I've been trying out other cameras. See below. The other camera's I've been using are the original BMPCC and EOS-m with Magic Lantern in 1080p. The image from both is great, but transcoding all my ML footage before I can even watch it is a real turn off. That's partly why I bought a ludicrously cheap original BMPCC. Neither of these have IBIS, and I really like the footage from both. However, since I'm on the search for a holiday/family camera the BMPCC isn't ideal because of battery life, bad audio and no stills. EOS-m fits the bill more, but requires transcoding and fairly often crashes when switching from video to photo, then when I get home with 2 weeks worth of footage, it takes an age to transcode it all. With that in mind, IBIS was the least of my worries and I don't feel like I've missed shots because I didn't have IBIS available. Instead of toying around with older cameras, I figure why not just buy something nice and be happy with it for years to come. With a neckstrap / monopod / loupe (or VF on the Fuji) you can get very stable footage with a natural, undisturbing shakiness. For me that's not a problem at all. Regarding space - My philosophy is shoot at the very highest quality you can at the time because harddrives are cheap and will only continue to get cheaper. You can downscale your footage with minimal problems, but upscaling has it's limits. If a client wants a 1080p project, why not shoot it 4k, deliver them 1080p and then say 'oh by the way, I also have this as a 4k video if you'd like it' - under promise, over deliver.

I'm in a very similar position, wanting to upgrade my take everywhere camera from my loved GX80 to something with a mic input at the very least. IBIS is amazing, but I think there are other things in a camera that are more important. (codec, bitrate, etc.) For a few weeks, I've been to-and-fro-ing between the Fuji XT30, XT3 and XH1 (and every now and then the Sigma FP, but I'm pretty sure that's ruled out after a conversation in that thread). XT30 is amazingly cheap at the moment, and similarish in size to the GX80. - But I feel like if I go with that, I'll be pining over it's bigger brother in a couple months. XT3 has the best video specs of the three with 10bit DCI 60p and the best 1080/120p XH1 tops out at 8bit DCI 24p, but it does have IBIS. As for Black Friday deals. I'm not sure if it's the same where you are, but in Europe Fuji has a €200 cashback on many of their cameras. This will last until 5th Jan, so it can give you more time to think about it. I think the worst thing you could do is rush into a decision just because there's a sale. After all, if you're only now upgrading from the 5-year-old g7, this next one will likely need to keep you happy for another 5 years. There will be another sale in January, then an easter sale, then summer sale. @thebrothersthre3 - XT3 can shoot in h264 as well, unless you want DCI60/50p - any other resolution or frame rate is fine for h264

It's on the radar, but aside from IBIS I feel like the XT30 has the upper hand for personal usage... That said, I am to-and-fro-ing between the 3 Fuji's. This week I can get XT30 and kit 15-45 for 600e, which seems too good to be true... or swap the lens out for 35mm f2 for 860e - but then its worth springing the extra for the XT3 35mm f2 for 1222 euros... And so the terrible cycle continues.

I'm so torn between this and X-T3 for family videos, photos and grabcam. My sensible side says XT3 for great photos, AF 60p - but my bigger, more impulsive side is saying FP FP FP FP FP.

Here's my unscientific test - I shot this interview viewing the Leeming LUT in camera, so there is a bias there as that's what I exposed for. In Premiere, I've tried to closely match exposures between the Leeming, BMD Extended Video and Jordan's LUT. Other than Exposure adjustments, all other settings are exactly the same - and Exposure is not a perfect match between them. Extended Video: Leeming: @JordanWright

Thanks @JordanWright - I'll check it out later today

This was announced a few days ago, and I expected people here to get chatting, but since no-one's picked it up... This thing looks really good: - Revolutionary acoustic design – delivers unmatched acoustic transparency and a natural, uncoloured sound similar to a broadcast shotgun mic. - Unique infinitely variable gain control allows you to precisely match the mic's output to your recording device. - Auto-sensing 3.5mm output intelligently switches between TRS and TRRS to accommodate both cameras and mobile devices. - USB output – the VideoMic NTG is also a fully-featured USB mic! - Headphone output for seamless audio monitoring when using the USB output. - Digital switching for high-pass filter, pad, high frequency boost, and safety channel. - dB peak warning light. - Auto-power function switches the mic on/off with your recording device. - In-built rechargeable lithium-ion battery provides 30+ hours of use. - Lightweight (just 94g) and rugged.

hey @ZEEK - can you get realtime preview with correct framing at 2.5k? I'm having a hard time getting it to work. I had it working a few days ago, then tried a few other settings and now can't get everything back in order haha.

It fits well on the Weebill Lab without an offset plate, but you need to counterbalance it. I've used it with the Viltrox booster and 24-105 f4 and the results were really nice. My counterweight was the NPF battery sled with a 970 battery, which was handy because I could shoot like that for hours should I need to. That said, if I were to buy again I wouldn't necessarily go with the Weebill Lab as I've found I quite often need to use some post stabilisation as well to help it out a little.