Anaconda_

After using the camera for the first time professionally today, I've made myself a LUT - I've done this before with Atomos products and it's all fine, but for some reason I can't seem to import it into the camera. I've put other LUTs on fine. In fact I can have my LUT and a 3rd party LUT on the same card, instal the 3rd party LUT but not my own within 3 seconds of each other. I've saved my LUT as .cube, like the others I've used, and even saved it in different ways. First just with the burger menu in Lumetri, then using Red Giant's LUT Buddy. Does anyone know what might be the problem? If someone could test it on their camera too that would be amazing! You can download it here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3bgxtfd63ryu37z/Custom_Made.cube?dl=0 EDIT: I only have 1 custom LUT installed while trying this, so the problem isn't that I've filled up the allotted (alLUTted) space

For people interested in recording audio in camera: When selecting both audio sources to be XLR, I was really hoping to have Channel 1 set to 75% and Channel 2 set to 50% for example. Unfortunately the volume becomes locked together, so if you change Channel 1, Channel 2 also changes and visa versa. I really hope they change this in the future, as it'd be great to be able to record a safety track from the same mic - for interviews for example.

Really nice footage and great review. The delivery of your voice over made me think a lot of Jean-Pierre Jeunet's movies - you should do more.

But 95% more trustworthy I image. Shame the DEC LensRegain is sold out in Europe. It would be great, especially with the start/stop function (if that worked with this camera).

Does that have an LED charge indicator? If it does, you can also ignore the vaults/percentage displayed on camera.

Well there you go. I guess since the Viltrox 18-35 combo does AF on my other MFT cameras I assumed it would here too. Luckily I never use AF anyway ?

I can’t get tap to focus or any kind of AF to work on any of my lenses, 18-35 included. Im using the Viltrox EF adapter and assume this is stopping it from working, maybe it needs an firmware update? Maybe there’s a setting I’ve missed in the menu? I don’t have native AF MFT lenses to try it with.

Why not use the Velcro on the cable? Slip it under the strap hook thingy on the corner of the camera and then the drive doesn’t dangle. Although I guess that’s not an issue for you anymore.

Today I saw a Signa Art 25-35. 2.0. What’s the advantage of this lens over 18-35 1.8?

I do get there should be better quality control for many things on this camera, and it's far from 'perfect'. But a lot of these comments, not just from Andrew seem quite nit picky. For example, complaining you need expensive media is a result of having such a big codec. If you don't want the codec, there's other options with cheaper media. If you want RAW and ProRes out of the camera, expensive media is the price you have to pay. That said, as soon as BRAW hits, this whole issue is out the window. Same with the M43 lens distortion, if you're buying this for the an unprocessed image from the sensor, don't complain that it's not been processed. Granted, for ProRes recordings it could be nice, but then people would complain the ProRes looks so different form the RAW. I like that they're almost indistinguishable until you hit heavy grades. Andrew, you mention the battery door in almost every comment about this camera, but as far as I know, only 1 person here has had an issue with it, and it was solved by BMD or the reseller quickly. It just doesn't seem to be an issue, just one faulty unit. Then adding cages and monitors - that's 100% optional and is far from a requirement to make it work. Anyway, I don't wish to rant or persuade people one way or the other about this camera. I'm enjoying using it, I'm enjoying editing it, and I'm enjoying riging it up and stripping it down.

That looks cool, but I’d rather go with a VMount on the back of a rig. This thing is going to make it harder to handhold without an extra support, so doesn’t offer much of an advantage. Mine doesn’t get hot, a little warm maybe, but no more than the front end of my LS300 - which also has vents by the sensor. That looks cool, but I’d rather go with a VMount on the back of a rig. This thing is going to make it harder to handhold without an extra support, so doesn’t offer much of an advantage. Mine doesn’t get hot, a little warm maybe, but no more than the front end of my LS300 - which also has vents by the sensor.

How did you do that? Was it plugged in? ?

I have the Assassin and while I used to load LUTs for on location preview, I now prefer to use the HDR options. It easily allows you to see what details are being recorded and for me always gave me better results after the grade. Strangely even if I used the same LUT while editing as I did for preview, I didn’t like the end results and would end up fiddling anyway.

This doesn’t happen for me with the Viltrox. There’s a little play, but less than there is on my GX80, and I don’t foresee it being a problem. Maybe it’s because I’m using adapter lenses , but I’m having no problems with CA or distortion. I do have the cheap as chips MFT Meike 28mm f2.8 and that also works perfectly. Maybe wider, native lenses present a problem though

I’ve used a the Viltrox EF adapter exclusively and have no issues. I posted a grab a while ago if you wanted to see how it works.

EOS R comes out on top or at least a tie in ProAV's comparisons - Shame they didn't have an XT3 though:

Has anyone found some nice LUTs yet? I've been playing around with this one and it's quite nice. http://moaifilms.com/downloads/moai-cn-lut-for-blackmagic-ursa-mini-pro-and-pocket-cinema-camera-4k/ Here's a quick example, no other adjustments, only the LUTs applies. OG Frame Film to Video Film to Extended Video Moai LUT

I've seen it now - It's ok to be wrong. Other than the 120fps test though, I get the impression it's very a close call between the XT3 and P4k. Both are fantastic, but serve slightly different purposes, so your needs dictate which is better for you. Now do a test where you have the same shots with each camera, and you're editing on matching hardware. Which one allows for the fastest workflow? I think P4K Which one needs the least adjustments? I think XT3 Which one lets you manipulate the image more? I think P4K Which one leaves some space on your hard drive? I think XT3 Which one is more fun to edit? I think P4K Pick what matters most to you and run with that.

Because it makes post production easier ?

Aside from the 120fps tests, it seems like the XT3 and P4K are on par and he seems to prefer both over the others. From there, it depends if you're an editor/colourist or a shooter. I said it a while ago, the the P4K is camera made for the post production, it's an editor's camera. The XT3 leans more towards SOOC. I wonder where it would stand after being sharpened in post to the same extent the other cameras sharpen in camera.

Based on that thumbnail - it's like the ugly duckling. Least attractive of the bunch, but in the end will be the most stunning of them all... That's just an assumption though, I didn't see the video yet. Let me know if I'm wrong.

I've just used it every day, 7 days a week for 4 weeks straight and I carried it in a bag each day too. It's fine. Yes the LCD and VF suck, but there are exposure tools to combat that. Learn to use those, and the build quality isn't an issue - just make sure you don't put the camera in the bag with the LCD open, but you wouldn't do that with any camera anyway. It's definitely broadcast quality. The LS300 may be the most common JVC camera here, but the Sony A7 series are probably the most common Sony cameras here - doesn't really mean much right? Their new camera has some amazing features and internal ProRes is an amazing feature, but we don't even know what it's called. Imagine if Sony released their new camera with the exact same specs - we'd definitely know what it's called, and most likely have orders in. @Yehouda - but surely the BMPCC4K can't compete with the ANVPSC4k

Well - I currently have 7.3v and 17% - so that's interesting. I've edited my last post because this numbers thing just doesn't make sense, so don't want to recommend the 6.5v thing.

@BTM_Pix if you tap the battery meter it changes between percentage and vaults. That could help you determine your consumption. I'm not having any luck pairing my phone to the camera. I downloaded the free app tRigger, but it's not showing up - are you using an app or your homemade whatsit?