Attila Bakos

Yes, I have the same problem, didn't find a solution yet.

I had the same problem a few hours after my purchase. The unit did not turn on, battery pull didn't help. It turned out one of my Lexar 2000xs broke inside the camera. I removed the card and did another battery pull and the unit powered on again.

You can start immediately but the camera gets hot in 4K50 mode, I had heat warning at 25 mins when I last checked it. I think it's advisable to wait.

Haha, we never forget.

I don't see it mentioned anywhere, but the FHD mode seems to have a very slight crop compared to 4K.

Oh yes I'm using the Studio version.

Just did a very non scientific power bank test with the X-T3. I fully charged the battery inside the camera with the factory charger, and I wanted to see how much time it takes until 1 unit on the camera display's battery level indicator is lost when using 4K60 recording (and boost mode turned on) with a power bank attached: Anker 20000 PD: 25 mins until heat warning, I decided to stop the test there, indicator still showed full battery Asus ZenPower 10050 (no PD on this one, just a regular power bank): 17 mins No power bank attached: 13 mins It seems it's a good idea to get a power bank with PD support. Actually this is what Fuji recommends as well.

I only tried 10bit 4K25 files from my X-T3, but they play just fine in Resolve.

True. Check here: http://www.fujifilm.com/news/n180215_02.html In the 35mm format equivalent, MKX18-55mm covers a focal distance from 27mm to 84mm and MKX50-135mm covers a focal distance from 76mm to 206mm.

If you don't like the 4GB file splitting and don't mind a bit of work, download ffmpeg, put ffmpeg.exe and your mov files you want to concatenate into a folder, and create a bat file (in windows) in that same folder with the following two lines: (for %%i in (*.mov) do @echo file '%%i') > mylist.txt ffmpeg -f concat -i mylist.txt -c copy output.mov Running this will concatenate all the mov files in that folder without re-encoding into a file named output.mov. Keep in mind that on an average HDD this can take at least 1 minute/4GB.

Just noticed that you can take a picture for custom WB in video mode as well. I'm not sure if the X-T2/X-H1 has this feature. I sold my X-T2 in January this year and back then I had to switch over to photo mode to set a custom WB.

There is nothing about auto iris in that video, it's about auto iso. And if you disregard that slider shot, there is nothing ugly about auto iso. The slider shot is distracting because of AF problems. Maarten Heilbron did a better auto iso test which I linked a few posts before.

This one is specifically about auto ISO:

Is this true for the 16mm as well? It's newer than the 23 or the 35 1.4, it was actually introduced after the 16-55 2.8.

For auto ISO demonstration check this review from 31:10:

They are wrong, it is smooth, I have the camera. Auto iris is the one that's stepped.

Nice Lenore figure, I love her too

Zhiyun just replied that they don't support Fuji, it won't work.

Yes, I did all of that.

Does someone have the Zhiyun Crane and the X-T3? The remote jack is on the right side on the X-T3, so the Panasonic cable included with the gimbal is just the right size, however it can't start video recording, or take images. You could of course say that it's meant to be used with Panasonic, but a friend of mine has a Moza AirCross and it works flawlessly with the X-T3 using the included Panasonic cable. I already asked Zhiyun, but maybe some of you can help.

Maybe drastic is not the right word, that's a standard data levels vs video levels difference. If you put an original S-Log3 file into Resolve and set it to video levels manually, it will look exactly the same as the Ninja V file, which is automatically interpreted as video range.

Nice DR straight out of cam:

I used the X-T2 with a Video Assist 4K not long after it was released, and I'm not sure if firmware updates changed things, but this is how it worked: the in camera recordings were indeed full range, but HDMI was remapped to video range, so nothing was really lost, but precision (220 luminance levels instead of 256). F-Log over HDMI was a different beast, it went up to 109% RGB, so even though it looked like it clipped highlights, it did not, and in Resolve I could easily recover that part of the image.

Thanks! I used live view as I don't have a card with me at the moment, so that must be the case. Back then when I used an external recorder with the X-T2, I HAD to press record on the X-T2 too, otherwise the HDMI signal quality was worse, so I'm kinda used to doing that

Can somebody pls check if AF speed under movie settings makes a difference? I'm using the 16mm 1.4 at the moment, and focus changes pretty fast, no matter what AF speed setting I use. It doesn't seem to make any difference if it's -5 or 5, am I missing something?