kye

Not a Sony.... and I think that makes the second question redundant

What is the mini video mode?

No-one has tried to guess what my cameras are, except to ask if either one was a Z-Cam E1. It would be funny to see people try..... ???

Just spent the last hour or two downloading the hack and playing with it, and learned three things: The hack doesn't allow time lapses I can't get the hack to load on the camera, despite about a dozen attempts, reading things across the ptool forums The forums are dead, without any activity in quite some years, so no real support either I also googled and found that there's no hack for time lapses, but did find a few examples of them from people, and had the thought about taping down the shutter button.... which actually isn't a bad idea lol. My other option is to buy a m43 camera with time-lapse built-in, but that's money and money spent on photography that isn't spent on lenses is pretty hard to justify when I really want a Laowa 7.5mm f2 and a Samyang 85mm 1.4. ??? Holding down the shutter button takes one frame about every 3s which is actually a pretty good time-lapse interval, so I think that works for me TBH. I tried RAW and just JPEG and both were about the same speed, so that's a bit odd but depending on if you want more DR or more files on the card, there are options

Has anyone used this hack with GF3? Normally I travel with a GH5 and action camera but recently I have been thinking that having a second body (that has the same lens mount) might be useful, both as a backup and also as a second angle for things like time lapses. If it improves the video quality that would be nice too, but not likely to be used much. I already own a GF3 and was thinking that it might be a good option and wondered if there was a hack to give it an intervalometer and found the hack. http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/2712/ptool-v3.65d-topic#Item_1

If v15 is working for you then I'd say wait. Newer versions are great and all, but if you're interested in productivity and actually making films then absolutely prioritise that over new shiny things. I actually skipped version 15 because I was using v14, didn't need anything new in v15, and by the time I got around to upgrading v16 betas were out and so I just skipped straight to 16b1

@mercer I think I've posted these before, but here are some 50mm lens comparisons I've found previously: https://mbphotox.wordpress.com/2015/12/29/sharpness1/ https://mbphotox.wordpress.com/2016/01/10/sharpness2/ (part 2) http://hispan.hu/50mm-lens-test/ (translated link: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fhispan.hu%2F50mm-lens-test%2F ) Lots of cool info there and lots of lenses compared.. You're lucky with the 50mm focal length as lots of people are interested in these

I'm referring to the cameras I shot my entries with, but as this is a blind competition, I cannot yet confirm or deny if I have a Z-Cam E1.

Version 16 is probably very close to being released so if you're happy with 15 then I'd suggest waiting. You could even wait for feedback on the released v16 and potentially wait for 16.1, assuming there's nothing new in v16 that you want.

I find the peaking on the GH5 to be quite disappointing overall. I've been in situations where the lens was focused on someones face but because I had soft lighting the peaking didn't show there, but the background had some high contrast (but blurred areas) and at the blurred transitions pixel X was quite different to pixel X+1 it did show peaking. So basically wrong on both counts. I have figured out some things though: The peaking works on the resolution of the screen, so if you use the viewfinder it works better than the screen Because it works on the resolution of the screen, the ETC punch-in mode makes a huge difference, so if you have time to set up shots then use that to set focus, then disable the mode to get back to normal framing Softer lenses can make it not show peaking, so stopping down can help If you have flare then that can reduce contrast and defeat peaking I find that the less-picky setting (can't remember if it's high or low) shows peaking on far too much so you can't tell what is in focus, unless you have crazy shallow DOF, so I use the more picky setting I map peaking to a button so that if the current setting isn't showing anything I can cycle it around to the other one In terms of focusing, for the football season I'm filming my kid and doing manual focus with crazy long lenses most weekends (280-840mm equivalent), and it can be easier to turn peaking off, open up the aperture and just use the shallower DOF to make it obvious what is in focus.

It's been stable for me too, but I think this is one of those "if you have to ask" kind of situations. If you don't have time to mess around then just use 15... Of course, no software is 100% reliable these days!

Yeah, I think that tech tends to stop when it starts approaching the limits of the human senses. Think about the race to increase DPI in printers, but now the dots are so small that you can't see them and no-one seems to care much any more. We obviously have a way to go with video still, and VR will really kick things into another whole megapixel race, but considering that it's gotten pretty good and the fond memories many have for film were based around it not being razor sharp, we're definitely in a good position with the tech we have.

Nothing, but as a hand-held shooter and as a wanna-be minimalist I do appreciate a light/compact/simple setup, and the Viltrox is much more in that direction! My most recent lens purchase was an FD lens and it's very nice, plus I have a bunch of manual m42 lenses which are awesome too. If you're willing to go manual there is a huge backlog of gems just waiting to be resurrected and to create magic again

Nice!!

I've already asked if it can be modified to make cappuccinos...

That's a more compact setup than the anamorphic frankenstein rigs you've posted before! (although the images they make are probably lovely...)

I'm ready to ship one of my cameras. Luckily I have all these boxes left over from buying vintage lenses.. lol ???

I'm not so naturally bold, but have pushed myself and gotten some interesting images. I even did some using a GoPro in one of the burst burst modes (10 photos over 2 seconds IIRC) and getting super close, which is easier because the camera is so small. A few GoPro street photography pics.... and this one was taken at about two to three feet from this guys face, but looks much further than that because of the wide angle: Any camera can work if you put interesting things in front of it and put in the time...

Nice entries from @Wronzoff, @Mikey R and @Nordee (who spiced it up with some Dutch angles)... well done all! Keep 'em coming!

Yeah, I can't imagine what that must be like. Someone I know recently went on holiday and while away her hot water system started leaking, putting steam all through her whole (nicely locked up) apartment. Over the few weeks she was away everything went mouldy, so she's now basically having to almost start again. She works in a medical field and lost all her books and university notes and paper resources, so the loss is difficult to fathom. I had a leaky hot water system in my apartment while I was away but luckily had a window slightly open and a fan on so avoided any impacts. That could have gone very differently. Good to hear about the insurance company being good. My sympathy to you.

Back when I was focusing on still images, I did some analysis of my ~50k image LR catalog and found a few interesting things: The majority of keepers were towards the middle of my 28-84mm equiv zoom range There were lots of shots at the widest end of my lens range 28mm and lots at the longest end 84mm On the back of that I explored a wider focal length range and have discovered that when I travel I like 16mm for "wow" wides, 35mm for environmental portraits, and thirdly an ~80mm when you need a bit more reach, but that's used a lot less than the first two. I only need a longer lens when I'm doing sports or wildlife, and am currently rocking a setup that is equivalent to 280-840mm and even that isn't long enough sometimes. The conclusion I drew was that the 24-70 standard zoom is great for general use, and is absolutely the best choice in terms of being the default kit lens on most cameras. Everyones shooting style will differ (of course) so my advice is to ignore what everyone else does (unless you're buying a lens for everyone else) and concentrate on what you shoot and how you shoot it. Over the years I have used the equipment I had, kept notes about what worked and what didn't, and only bought new equipment when I found an issue that impacted me in real life. This is the best path to understanding yourself and getting the best equipment for the job.

I have heard that there are some limitations (or issues, can't recall) with multi camera editing in Resolve, so you're not alone. Resolve is great and I'm a big fan, but it's not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, and the amount of work to transition is not to be underestimated. I only got into editing in the last few years and so I was able to evaluate all the editing options without having any muscle memory or preconceived notions around any of the options, so that's a situation not many others will be in.

That is absolutely spectacular. Wow. Seriously.. @Ed_David