kye

If this doesn't say "film-making is about marketing, reputation, customer service more than it is about the end result" then I don't know what will! Good luck to him, the Hunter S Thompson lifestyle isn't for everyone

Just paste the URL into the message window, hit enter/return and after a few seconds it should expand out to embed the video

I'm happy for it to get extended a couple of days.. It would be nice to see a few more entries

Yeah, gimbal work is a different thing altogether. Unless you have a follow-focus with wireless monitoring, then it's pretty much AF-only.

Nice work! I'm also ready for round two.. this was fun, and I still have an outstanding experiment I wanted to try ???

@Michi Very nice!! and a great idea too

Very nice! Absolutely! @Jonesy Jones you should actually consider that! Moment is a lens company that makes clip-on lenses for smartphones and the like. They make some anamorphic lenses that you should be able to use with your iPad. They're not free, but they're probably under 10% of what it costs (in time and money) to get the next cheapest anamorphic setup

AF is beyond human abilities now to maintain focus on an item. In terms of selecting which item and giving the right kind of seeking behaviour to match the style and creative intent, it may never exceed human beings for that. DMF would have to get a lot better in terms of usability and physical control interfaces before I'd give up MF from dedicated MF lenses. Any time you rotate the focus ring you encounter what makes a nice MF experience: long focus throws, linear response, heft and weight and smoothness to the ring itself, and it will be a long time before you can buy a camera and set of lenses that suit your other preferences and all support DMF as well as having a nice ergonomic MF experience. My only experience of DMF was a "flick the plastic ring in the general direction, no linear response or focus peaking to know where you are, and hope it guesses the rest the way you want it to" which is a bad MF experience in almost every way. A touchscreen is fine if you're inside and shooting on a tripod, but any time you are outside and using the EVF or are shooting hand-held then the ergonomics are just awful. There's a broader issue for shooting hand-held using the EVF and that is that you can use one eye to look at the image through the EVF and the other eye to keep watch over what is happening outside the frame. The famous street photographers all used to do this to aid composition, but it's still a useful skill to have when shooting sports, anything live, or any kind of action that you'd like to capture on the first take. MF is part of a film-making ecosystem that must be considered in context rather than simply being thought of as a dial that gets operated by either you or the camera.

It depends on how good the AF is to begin with. I've lost more shots waiting for CDAF to work out that a portrait shot isn't a macro shot, or that the focus point wasn't on the train window but on the scenery outside it, that I could MF for the rest of my life and still come out ahead. MF doesn't always nail focus but it always knows what to focus on. It also depends on how out of focus you're comfortable with. Movies and TV spend more time out of focus than you'd think.

No worries! Cool B&W frame. There's richness and depth in the subtle shading that is very nice After messing around with B&W in the cheap camera challenge I've gained a new appreciation for it. I recall a famous photographer once saying that things should always be B&W unless they're better in colour, and that that's the logic that should be used when deciding which way to go. Interesting perspective.

Very nice!! Cool song / concept too

Welcome..

Yeah, I'm on the ~$10pm photography plan which gives you PS and LR. The LR panels are pretty optimised I think. Their target users are people who do weddings and need to process images really quickly and efficiently. By the time you go through the sliders, and setup local adjustment brushes for things like under-eyes (lighten shadows, reduce clarity), brighten eyes (increase vibrance, sharpen), flattering skin (reduced clarity), and a couple of dodge/burn presets, you can process images at a pretty quick pace.

The more I pay attention to TV and films, the more that I see that things don't have perfect focal control. In shots where the subject-to-camera distance decreases, I see many more shots that go out of focus and then regain focus again for the closeup than shots that keep focus on the character the whole time. I agree. With properly designed lenses it's a completely different experience than with focus-by-wire or with short-throw lenses designed for AF use that still have a physical MF ring.

Great shots @mercer - I do enjoy the 35mm framing. Are you playing with the colours before you convert to B&W? You probably are but just in case you're not it can really create great contrast

I pointed Lightroom to a folder containing an image sequence of CDNG files and it sees all of them, and seems to import them fine. I then made edits, copied those edits and pasted to a bunch of images (in one click - not one-by-one) and went to the export window (but stopped short of actually exporting) and it seemed to be fine with all of that. Does that answer your question? [Edit: the CDNG files were extracted from an ML clip, so should be the right format]

Not sure on the best settings, but one way to get some insight is to run the activity monitor to show you the CPU/GPU load during rendering so you can see what's going on. I think Resolve puts more emphasis on the GPU than CPU compared to other NLEs, and I'm pretty sure that I read somewhere that DR16 moves a lot of processing to the GPU to make this even moreso. In which case what you're after is a maxed out GPU. You may also consider some third party monitoring applications that will show you CPU and GPU temperatures as well, as that will tell you if there is throttling going on, which obviously can impact things considerably. Good luck - I'll be joining you when I get my RX 5700 card.. just waiting on Apple to release drivers, which history suggests will be a few months unfortunately.

I used to be a champion for AF and was looking at buying an A7III because of its AF until I discovered that I actually like the aesthetic of MF. This lead me down the path of GH5 with manual lenses and I've never looked back. I particularly like the very human and analog feel of MF, and its imperfections (which are especially prevalent when I do it!). I am completely in love with the aesthetic I get from the GH5 and I think the imperfect MF is a real contributor to that, as I think it suits the emotional/nostalgic feeling I want for the home videos that I make. The fact that I stopped being frustrated by poor AF is also a bonus, the number of times I was just standing there holding the camera watching the moment go by while silently screaming "focus you @#$@#$" probably had a measurable impact on my average blood pressure...

I started using Lightroom to catalog and manage my footage but (IIRC) as soon as I moved from the 700D to the XC10 that stuffed it up because Lightroom wouldn't even recognise the files existed, so I think it depends on what file formats you're using. I can try it for you if you tell me what file format you're interested in using.

Here goes nothin'........ Camera #2

I think Kai sums it up well at the end of his review.....

They must have heard about the $150 camera challenge and wanted to cash in!!!

I'd suggest that a gorillapod is probably only required if, for example, you weren't going to be operating the camera, or that you wanted a steady shot that you couldn't do yourself if either it was from a funny angle you could only just reach or perhaps you wanted a time-lapse. Beyond that I'd suggest that a monopod is probably a much better choice

Truly outstanding! Well done @BTM_Pix !!!

Gorillapods get a lot of press from vloggers, but keep in mind that they are basically a consumable item because the friction on the joints wears out and there's no way to re-tension them. If you're interested in a tripod then get a tripod, but if you're frequently mounting your camera in a tree, on slippery rocks, on handrails, straddling fences, and other places that a traditional tripod won't cut it then by all means go for it. I have a love/hate relationship with the 5K gorillapod I own because it's pretty bad at most things, it's just that for mounting a camera on top of a fence everything else is literally useless. If you're concerned about sand then you could always take a few cheap plastic cups and put the legs in them when on the sand? I guess it depends on wet vs dry vs if it's windy, etc..