Lux Shots

Do the displays support HLG, HDR10 or PQ? I get an HDR output to my Sony 4K HDR TV set on my Ninja V, but you have to enable HDR output in the settings panel.

Buy them both! ?

I have a friend who is the greatest guy. He has these dreams and aspirations that some company is going to hire him to be the 'marketer' creating all the video content and that then he and his long distance love can get married and start their own video company. But he doesn't have a reel. He can't three point light worth a damn and he's 40 years old living in his mom's basement. All this, not to mention a failure to understand what a marketer truly does. This is the competition who will take the corporate commercial job for less than $500. He's not trying to make a living. He's trying to survive.

A new EVA-1 firmware got announced that is now called EVA 3.0 https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/panasonic-drives-innovation-in-live-production-at-nab-2019-300825278.html

If you think the colors from the GH5 are pretty good, rent the GH5S for a few days, and you'll see just how great the GH5S is over the GH5.

You simply can't lump the highlight roll off of the GH5 and GH5S together, as the GH5S is way better! V-Log-L and HLG both are way better than anything the GH5 can muster.

We all knew that there was no way in the world Canon would jeopardize their Cinema Line. Not for the love of Christ. Not ever. Just wait for all the Canon fanboys and girls to sing the praises of Touch AF like Canon invented it or something. It's about time they catch up to a 5 year old feature from Panasonic and Olympus. ?

I think you are seriously misinformed about the position of video in media creation. Give it five years and video production will outweigh stills. That is usually the stance of shooters who still long for the smell of developing fluid and dodge and burn techniques. The future is now, and it's changing everything. No matter what you do, you can't stop it. You either adapt or become irrelevant.

They can be calibrated just like a computer monitor with a Spyder color calibrator.

I hooked my computer (a PC) with a professional graphics card (AMD Vega Frontier Edition) that will do true 10-bit output to my HDR television for a cheap way to grade HDR footage. If you have an HDR television, you can check out a test I did here using Premiere Pro CC.

If you are using a Panasonic camera, then the Ronin-S is the best way to go. Support for follow focus, start/stop record and

If 10-bit and low light are strong desires, there is only one camera that fits the bill: The GH5S.

That's not true. The Atomos Ninja Inferno and Shogun work great with HLG. Just turn on the HDR mode and you'll view the expanded dynamic range right on the display. You can also use the waveform and false color as exposure aids.

Hmm, it's out already huh? Time to pull out the GH5S and do an upgrade!

Great job! I have something in the works as well, but after doing this shit for 10 hours a day, the last thing I want to do is do it again when I get home! I did do a design modification and added USB the Go for direct tether. Now just trying to decide if I should pay USB SIG $2500 for a manufacturer's ID!

I was thinking video auto focus improvements and fixes to the VFR noise. Maybe we'll get a higher bit rate H.265, but I doubt we'll get RAW.

Any word on the latest firmware rumors for the GH5S?

The more pre-production is done, the easier the shoot day is. I scout every location with a light meter and my camera. I take test footage and stills. I used to just take test footage, but the stills keep the lens aperture in the EXIF, so there is less to remember. I try to meter the lightest and the darkest areas so I can know the scene dynamic range, I prefer to have 8 stops or under, which gives room for highlights and practicals. I write focal lengths on my shooting script and story boards.

No you can't. May I suggest upgrading to a GH5 and use the Dual Record feature, which records the video file to two SD cards simultaneously. If your doing once in a lifetime events, it's worth it to have the assurance that you have a real time backup, because SD cards do fail!

I use a Tascam DR-60D. I also run an Audio Technica AT-875R into it most times, but I also have an Audio Technica AT-2020 that I use every now and then. It's a great, cheap, four channel recorder. Only downside is the horrid battery life. I have zip tied a 10,000 mAh USB power bank to the thing just to have reliable power!

What do you consider sub 4K? It shoots at the intended resolution, 1:1, no upscaling required. I haven't looked specifically for it when reviewing my footage, but I did read somewhere that it did have the OLPF. I believe it was in a review, so someone got that info from somewhere.

I have found an affinity for old Canon FD glass. It's cheap and quite plentiful. I have a 50mm f/1.4, a 28mm f/2.8 and a 35-105mm f/3.5 and I got them all for less than $200! I also have a generic speedbooster which gives me a few more focal lengths to play with, but optically, it's kinda trash, so I don't use it much. I'll probably invest in a proper one soon.

One of the things I hear people say about the GH5S, GH5 and GH4 before it is this 'videoy' adjective. This could mean many different things depending on who you ask. The noise reduction is too high, or the colors are way off (or off from what you think they should be), or the contrast is too high. But what I've figured out is this: Everyone is trying to emulate the imperfections of film! You PAID MONEY to add in grain after waxing an image clean, all because you didn't like the SIZE of the sensor's native grain! So, if you have a GH4, GH5, GH5S try this: Noise Reduction to -5, Sharpness to -5, Contrast to -5, Color to -2 and use LEGACY GLASS. The low contrast of this glass will give you what you desire.

The GH5S has this option. I just ran across it the other day, and I was like who needs interlaced anymore? Well broadcast! ?

Oops! Made a mistake with that.