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To be honest, I much more prefer his older work made with T2i Surely, it looked raw and unpolished, but to me it was added value. Nowadays he uses a gimbal and grades the footage in a modern "cinematic" way - those two things doesn't really fit his way of storytelling, imho.

Downloaded and watched it thoroughly a couple of times. And I definitely see some serious jittering. Though I can't rule out the fact that my PC simply isn't able to smoothly play H265 5K footage. I know for sure that I can't watch footage coming out from my X-T3 in real time and that's H265 4K. That's the biggest problem with the so-called motion cadence - there are so many variables at play here that it's difficult to point a definite culprit. But I agree with @Beritar. No matter what I did with my previous Sony cameras (a6300, a7 III), the motion always looked off. Panasonic G85 was much better in this regard.

Wow, you're quick! I didn't expect seeing any actual tests conducted this month, let alone the same week of posting. Even though it's very technical and all those numbers take some time to digest, you manage to show the results in a very clear and interesting way. Congrats. Can't wait for more!

It may, though as it's often the case with anamorphics - IT DEPENDS ON MANY DIFFERENT FACTORS. (( : For starters: depends on how bad this damage is. Did some air manage to make its way to the coatings and began a process of balsam separation? No one knows. It might not show in the next couple of years. Next thing: depends on what taking lenses you're gonna use. If those taking lenses have big front elements, then they will be able to 'see' the chipped piece of glass. Would it be visible in the footage? Most likely not, but I'd say it may give some additional flares here and there. All in all: Is this lens really that much of a bargain? Do you enjoy having some organic flaws in your image? If the answer to these questions is 'yes', then go for it.

Hello! May we know which lens are you referring to? Is it the AF-S DX Nikkor 18-200mm VR you mention later?

That just goes to show that time can be bent in many different ways. ( : But just to clear it up: I didn't try to underrate his achievements in any way. Like I said - Ennio is and always will be the guru of film score composers in my mind.

Well, according to Wikipedia Ennio started composing music for movies in 1960s and his newest piece of work comes from 2016. 🤔

Really sad to hear this.. He was a living legend. Still being able to produce mesmerizing tunes after having worked almost 50 years in the industry.. Themes from "Cinema Paradiso" and "La migliore offerta" are my all-time favorites. At least his legacy will live on.

Have you considered other offers? I happen to own Tiffen Variable ND and can wholeheartedly recommend it. It doesn't affect contrast, sharpness and bokeh and offers up to 8 stops of filtration. Sure, it has a slight color cast, but I custom WB every time I arrive on location, so it's not a big issue for me. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/813278-REG/Tiffen_77VND_77mm_Variable_Neutral_Density.html

Actually, we've already had a little talk about them in this thread in case you missed it: Feel free to continue the discussion here, as the original topic was closed. And a tiny bit of what you can achieve in post:

Surely, there is. This one, e.g. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1413094-REG/fotodiox_m39_mft_lens_mount_adapter_for.html It cannot be any thicker / higher than that. It's not properly advertised since it's more of a L39 (which isn't the same as M39) to MFT adapter, but what can we do.. Bear in mind you won't be able to use Russian M39 lenses with this adapter, even though they would mount perfectly - once again, different flange distance.

I think it's for the better. The more space, the more efficient heat dissipation. This design really reminds me the good old Canon. Black bricks with funny buttons.

That's because this Jupiter isn't a normal M39x1 mount. It's actually a Leica M39×26tpi aka L39 Since it's meant for rangefinder cameras, its flange distance is so short that you won't be able to use it on a DSLR. If you put it on a mirrorless camera, it'll work just fine.

On my PC I mostly use Creative Aurvana Live!2, which I had slightly altered - installed bigger pads, changed the stock cable to something more robust. Before them I was really happy with Takstar HI 2050 - they surely are the most comfortable pair of headphones I've ever put on my head. For my portable applications and while traveling, I rely on Tin HiFi T4. Tin HiFi T2 were my first 'serious' IEMs and I loved their sound signature and build quality, so when T4 came out I only waited for them to pop out on a second-hand market (I rarely buy my equipment as new). When I want to listen to music at home but still be able to hear my family talking to me, I use VE Monks. I think I bought them almost 10 years ago and even though I use them on a daily basis, they still work. Unbelievable. Same goes for Sansa Clip Plus, which has been my personal DAP of choice for past 8 years - it's an exceptional piece of gear. I only upgraded microSD cards to be able to store more music. I don't use streaming services, so I'm not interested in any smart devices.

Many people here praise the footage coming out from Panasonic S1, especially the 10 bit h265 422 LongGOP @150mbps Is there any chance you could include it in the comparison, as well, @Andrew Reid?