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800$ ?! That's a steal!

Today is the day we got news of first, confirmed case of COVID-19 in Poland. Not that far from where I live - only 130 km. We don't know much about the patient, apart from: he is not a senior, isn't immunocompromised and that he recently got back from Germany. Supposedly, everything was done the way it should - he was driven to a hospital in a special ambulance and everyone, who had any contact with him, are taken care of. We'll see how it goes.. Right now, a lot of my students colleagues (I'm a med student) don't have 'classes', because the hospitals can't provide enough face masks and disposable gowns for the whole personnel.

Nice! Are you gearing up for some upcoming work?

So, what are your plans now? Will you buy it again, this time with the mount of your choice or save some money and go Pro? Or just let the whole Ursa Mini idea go and pick something different altogether?

Almost every legacy manual lens do that. ( : It's not an issue, then.

No, no, no, no, no. They don't have anything to do with sharpness. The reason why rotating fronts aren't suited for anamorphic adapters is quite simple: your anamorphic adapter must stay aligned at all times (the oval in it must be vertical), it can't be rotated. And if you screw it into a lens with rotating front threads, then each time you refocus the taking lens, your adapter will be rotated alongside with it. Got it? Like I said, you could hand hold the adapter - no need to screw it in. Just provide us with some pictures / videos. BTW: You happen to own GH5, just got yourself an anamorphic adapter, but you don't have any tripod? 🤔

You can hold the anamorphic adapter in your hands, it doesn't need to be fixed. Just put it in front of your taking lens. And yeah, rotating fronts are a no-no for double focusing.

Yup, that's right. No, it shouldn't. Nah, you should get a sharp image at all focusing distances. And yes, your anamorphic adapter should be set so that the oval is vertical. No camera setting will solve the issue you have. It's clearly related to your lens combo. My guess is: you're doing something wrong. 1. Pick a tripod, put your camera on it. 2. Take a measuring tape and put some subject (be it a teddy bear, some bottle, it doesn't matter) @ 2 metres away from your camera. 3. Focus your taking lens so that the subject is sharp. 4. Put an anamorphic adapter in front of your taking lens (DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING IN THE TAKING LENS) and begin searching for focus (should be at @ 2 m). If the above doesn't work and you can't get a sharp image, at all - something may be wrong with the anamorphic adapter you got. But, to be 100% sure, we'd need to see a video showing you perform all the steps above. Take a look at this video by Tito:

I think @Marty means that he is not able to secure it properly and make it stay perfectly horizontal. To do that you either need to add some screws (that's why "professional" clamps have screws inside them) which will keep the adapter in place: OR Get a lens collar, like I suggested in the first place.

I guess there are many variables affecting this, be it focal length (longer focal lengths tend to be affected more), primary characteristics of the lens (is it soft / milky to begin with) and personal preference. You said that 1/4 was too strong for you whereas @thebrothersthre3 mentioned that: That's why I'm not so keen on getting it - I'm a bit afraid I wouldn't like the results so much. I'll stick with emulating this in post.

That's a great news. I think the original X-T3 is highly underrated camera, but seeing how X-T4 is welcomed, it may no longer be the case in the upcoming months. Luckily, both of them, apart from sharing the same sensor, seem to have the same color science. They don't offer RAW, unfortunately, but 10-bit @400Mbps is still plenty of data for color manipulation.

Cool! Is there any chance for a X-T3 / X-T4 version, as well?

Wow, I wouldn't expect so drastic differences, but here they are.. Bummer. Maybe that's why Sage offers 2 LUTs for his GHAlex - Daylight and Tungsten.

Here is something to get you going. Unfortunately, there is no option for 1.33x desqueeze, so you are either stuck with having to look at squeezed image on your camera monitor or using an external monitor with more desqueeze options. Shooting Open Gate 4:3 with 1.33x Sirui will roughly result in a 16:9 final video. ( :

This Jamie Windsor's video is probably the best video about composition I've ever watched. Seriously. He mentions the most important rules but it's just to lay some foundation for a discussion whether one really needs to rely on them every time. And I really like his motion graphics. There is also a book I can't recommend enough: The Photographer's Eye by Michael Freeman. Very thorough but still easy to read and comprehend. Lot of diagrams, explanations, etc.

Well, there is no shortage of them, that I can tell. There is Tiffen Black Diffusion/FX and Schneider Radiant Frost, which (according to David Mullen) soften the image with minimal halation added. Not to mention a whole lot of Satins (Black Satin!), etc. Some good read here: https://www.thebroadcastbridge.com/content/entry/4071/its-time-sharpen-your-diffusion And last, but not least, a handy diagram from Tiffen: Someone already named it "Triangle of CONFUSION" and I think this term is extremely on point. ( :

Once more it's quite evident that the beloved classics and cine lenses have some slight green tint to them. Do you remember Potato Jet's video? Same story. It almost look like Leicas have some Pro-Mist built in, too. They resolve much detail, but in a subtle way.. But, in the end, Sigma 18-35 is one single lens, which can stay on your camera all day. It's also much more easier to get one in a great condition and is significantly cheaper than a set of Leicas.

Hadn't you mentioned it was shot on EOS-M, I'd be pretty certain it was shot on actual film. Congrats, it looks really convincing and beautiful. Sometimes it's good to listen to / see some lo-fi works. It somehow clears the mind and lets you see the message / feel the vibe more clearly. I hope that makes sense. ( :

I think so, too. And thanks! I suppose the credit should go to Fuji and their beautiful Acros film simulation, but I tweaked it a little with some curves in post. ( :

So, here are some keepers from my trip to Edinburgh and Gdańsk. All in all, I think it's a pretty good lens. Even though my copy seems a little bit decentered (left side of the image is visibly worse than right), it doesn't disturb me that much. It allows me to get a whole different perspective and I like it.

Exactly. I paid 115$ for it and still felt happy with my purchase, even though it's almost modern fifties' price territory. Hahahahha, thanks! I just got lucky with the weather, I guess! ( : The best thing is that this glow was captured in camera, no post involved. It was a misty, humid London evening and that's what created the right mood. I waited for some passerby, dragged my shutter a little bit (thanks to amazing Panasonic G80's IBIS) and voila. A bit surreal photo, though it's one of my favorites. Having an option to display everything in B&W in your camera definitely helps. Photos are saved as RAWs, so every bit of color information is still there, but seeing a colorless image is a great way to enhance your composition skills. If you are coloring in Resolve, then this tutorial should assist you in getting some great results:

Congrats on the purchase (what a deal you got, wow!). I also think that Minolta Rokkor MC 58/1.4 is one of the most underrated gems, especially when converted to EF mount - a very versatile option with great character. Managed to grab many good shots with it. Though I must admit that I sold my copy a couple of weeks ago, since I no longer needed 58 mm focal length and nifty fifties are much smaller and lighter than this hefty piece of craftsmanship. Right now my 50 mm lens of choice is Pentax M 50/1.7.

You're welcome. Yup, exactly - you need to insert an Allen key and then just turn it. That's why Cineluxes are pain to double focus, BUT once you get a variable diopter, they quickly become one of the best anamorphic adapters available (well, at leas to my taste).