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Reading these may prove to be a good starting point:

) : Sorry to hear it, as I quite enjoyed the first one, too! EXACTLY. To be honest, my serious movie watching started only after moving out of family home and breaking the 'bedtime' chains, hahahaha. In 4 years time I managed to get through (and really enjoy) some of the most important/memorable moving pictures and somehow develop a taste of mine. But, as you can see, there are still some titles I haven't watched yet. ( :

Matrix Trilogy. I've never really got a grip on the story (no surprise; when it was first released I was 8 years old, hahaha), so I decided to watch and understand it for the first time. ( :

Speedbooster? I'd much rather pair it with 2x teleconverter.

r/SneakyBackgroundFeet

Let's hope Sirui will make it more accessible and easy to use. ( :

You've already seen some stills; here is the video. Constructive criticism welcome!

I do have experience with both Schneiders and ISCOs. First tip: do not get a Cinelux with these protruding 'lips', because sooner or later you would have to cut them off. Schneider Cinelux can't be considered as a reasonable option, unless you buy a single focus diopter (Rapido FVD-16A, Rectilux HCDNA or some russian prototypes) for it. These cost more than the anamorphic adapter itself. The reason for it is: Cineluxes are quite troublesome to focus - to do it, you either need a hex key/allen wrench for the ES (aka flat-top) version or use the built-in screws (the version with lips) since their focus mechanism doesn't feature a helicoid. Cineluxes are also a bit bigger and definitely heavier. But they are usually cheaper and some copies give amazing, gorgeous flares (purpleish / orangeish / blueish). On the other hand, ISCOs are quite straight-forward to use. You focus them like a normal lens. They can also be dismantled to save some weight. But they are more flare-resistant. Some copies do not flare at all. Both Schneiders and ISCOs are extremely sharp and contrasty - they do not affect your image, at all. Sankor and Kowa lenses usually tend to soften it a little. Here are results from a recent poll: By Kowa most people mean Kowa 8Z / 16H.

I tend to disagree. Some copies of Schneider Cinelux have beautiful flares. ( :

What really excites me about the whole computational thing is the fact that it clearly shows major breakthroughs are no longer dependent on optics, sensors, but on processing power and software. I recently fooled a Camera app into thinking that my dearly beloved Redmi Note 4 is in fact a Pixel 3. The results truly amazed me. Just like gethin said, those photos may not be the best in terms of color rendering, ability to resolve details (not to be confused with sharpness), but they're good enough, especially for not tech-savvy people. I'm just worried that all my gear might become obsolete in 5 years time - I guess it's called 'progress' and 'moving on'. ( :

Fotga A70TLS https://www.amazon.com/DP500IIIS-Camera-1920x1080-Mirrorless-Camcorder/dp/B07WFS65LC?th=1 I own Fotga A50TL and can wholeheartedly recommend it. Here is a video from our fellow @Mattias Burling covering its most important features.

Not only you can, but actually you have to, unless you place a variable diopter aka single focus solution in front of your setup. Will not work. World would be a much more beautiful place (and I wouldn't have wasted so much money on a single focus), if it did.

Just a few stills from my first proper anamorphic video and first video shot with X-T3. A friend of mine asked me to document a graffiti jam that he organised. Managed to get some nice shots, but getting a correct exposure during a sunny day was a huge PITA. Need to work on it. X-T3 (cropped 16:9 video, shot with HLG), Zhongyi Lens Turbo II, Minolta 58/1.4 (used at f/2.8), Isco Ultra Star, myFM, Tiffen Vari ND.

I wonder how those would look like on a T2i.. ( :

I ended up with Tiffen Variable ND (wasn't tested in the above topic), which combines the best of the best worlds: - doesn't affect contrast, sharpness and bokeh, - offers up to 8 stops of filtration. Sure, it has a color cast, but I custom WB every time I arrive on location, so it's not a big issue for me. Bought it locally for 40$, couldn't be happier.

Point taken. ( :

Panasonic G85 + 12-60 or 25/1.7 + Pro Mist 1/4 http://reddit.com/r/cinematography/comments/d2hbmy/three_frames_from_a_project_shot_by_me_panasonic/

If you are in Resolve, head over to Color tab, and Right Click on the area where stills are kept, choose Import Stills and select the file you downloaded. Then it's only a matter of applying it on your current grade, eg. using Middle Click on the selected still.

So sorry to hear that you'll be leaving, even if only for a while.. Thanks for being a part of this community and sharing your experiences with us. Is there any way we can follow your work? Will you post it online? All the best. Cheers!

Well, according to the item description it should allow you to achieve infinity focus.. Without more data there is nothing more I can suggest, unfortunately. Good luck and keep us in the loop!

Hmm, then the only other thing that may cause this is your M42 - EF adapter. It may be too 'thick' and that's why it's acting like a some kind of a macro ring. Nothing else comes to my mind. There are no settings that could affect it. Is there any chance you could get some native EF glass and mount it to your Viltrox just to see if it's the speedbooster that's faulty or something else?

I'd recommend doing this in some gloves, though.

Some new source material. ( :

Regarding shooting music videos: Love it! BTS:

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