heart0less

No worries, totally understandable. Same here, though I began noticing this trend even earlier, more like already in the first iterations of 16 or even 15.2 I rolled back to 14.3 and it does feel better, more responsive. Unfortunately, none of my projects load up and none of the power grades I created work. Shame. Nevertheless, I'll give it a go. Thanks, leslie. I wouldn't have thought about trying to do anything to improve the performance, if you hadn't justified your new purchase, hahahahha.

Center sharpness certainly looks good, but I wouldn't say corners are that bad - they are a tiny bit less clear, but still - definitely usable. Helioses tend to give way worse IQ at the edges and that doesn't stop them from being widely used. What's more, the image looks slightly skewed so maybe your Iscorama wasn't perfectly aligned relative to the camera?

Ayyyayayayayayay, does it really? Hmmmm, I had only a feeling that the new iterations slowly start to work less and less efficient on my PC, but at first I put the blame on my parts that even 5 years ago were middle-tier. Such a shame. Actually, I've heard a lot of good opinions about the FD 50/1.4. It's quite popular in the anamorphic world and, supposedly, only Zeiss Planar 50/1.4 surpasses it. Can't wait for your review, man!

It's nice to see some polish work in here, hahaha. Though I'm not sure if you realize what 'palecwnosie' means? Not a huge fan of the guy behind it since his services are really overpriced IMHO. But he's found a niche and consecutively keeps at it That's really an outstanding collection, @Sebastien Farges. It's great to see that even a tiny LX100 received some anamorphic love. (calling Iscorama Pre-36 "some anamorphic" is a blasphemy, I know..)

Unfortunately, this only hints that Samsung will keep on making more and more sensors. Not a word about cameras per se, let alone a mirrorless ILC.

https://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/35846-lesser-known-youtube-channels-people-should-know-about/

And here I am, in my early twenties - so I'm technically a millennial / Generation Y - with my my strong preference towards written word. I deeply hate the fact that people nowadays tend to turn their blogs into vlogs, etc. For me, having to go to YouTube for a piece of information that could be put clearly in two or three sentences is one of the plagues of 21st century. I understand that our hobby - cameras and stuff related to them - is a visual hobby and words can't always be used to show what we mean or to share what we managed to create using our babies. Nonetheless, I think that over 30% of YouTube content could easily be transcribed and deprived of audio-visual stimuli and we, as viewers, would only gain from it. It's just terribly tiring, how much shit, unneeded clutter there is to almost everything. You could say that you save your time, because there are no ads per se, but the amount of in-video marketing and advertising, etc. is terrifying. But still, not every channel is like this and, surely, there are some that are really worth being subscribed to. The amount of knowledge that can be found on YT (if you know what you're looking for) is invaluable and often can't be put into words that easily. It's a tough nut to crack.

@leslie, that's a good idea for a challenge of sorts. ( :

That's for sure! Experiment, experiment and once more: perform experiments! Another thing to take into account is that anamorphic adapters aren't that great at 135mm+ focal lengths. If you use a modern one like ISCO Ultra Star or Schneider Cinelux, you may get away with it since those are super sharp right off the bat and doesn't degrade the image that much. But if you own some Sankor (eg. 16-D) or Kowa (even the highly praised 16-H), then you may be out of your luck and may notice some lose in sharpness, contrast - overall readability.

Like I said in a different topic: extension tubes won't work, at all, if you have an anamorphic adapter in front. They work the same way, no matter the brand. Having said that, a 2x telephoto extender / aka teleconverter should work with anamorphics. Just remember that it cuts off a pretty lot of light coming in to your sensor. A f/2 lens paired with 2x teleconverter becomes a f/4 piece of glass. It's just the opposite of how speedboosters work.

A fellow Pole! Wanna see more shots of how much dust there is on my bicycle? (( : Re: slider - sure, I'll write something about it once it's fully ready to roll!

Weather today was awful and I didn't have much to do, so I grabbed a slider, designed and 3D printed by my friend, put a X-T3 on top, attached a projection lens to it and then took a couple of shots. I sat down to review them and thought: why not add some sound to it, play with it just a little while and actually publish the finished result? So here it is, really short mock-up opening credits I made. Not one of the most elegant timelines, but this have to do for now:

Yeah, those Atlas lenses look very solid. One of my favorite anamorphics, to be honest. It's a great idea, but I'm afraid Christmas lights would be way too dim outside during a sunny day. Instead, I could try attaching some tiny marbles of aluminum foil to a string and use this as a 'bokeh prop'. I'll try my best to convince someone to act as a model. It'd save me tons of unneeded frustrations. kye, that's actually a brilliant thing to do! Not only would it liven up the background a little, but also add some color patches. Thanks!

..? Was this music video shot with Xelmus APOLLOs? Can't find it in the description.

Sure, it's possible. The more glass elements, the more likely it is to observe some aberrations, reflections, flares. Even Metabones speedboosters aren't perfect and introduce a tiny bit of their own character into the mix. You'd need to directly compare it with an adapter that has no glass inside.

Well, it would work, actually. Some people on Anamorphic Shooters group report that if you have a high quality telephoto extender, then it can be used with anamorphic adapters and works pretty well. So far, I've heard about Leica APO 2x Extender and Canon FD 2x Telephoto Adapter.

A very short extension tube turns ONLY your spherical lens into a macro one. The anamorphic adapter is an entirely independent optical block and therefore is not affected by it. If you put a diopter in front of the entire setup (assuming it's properly focused, meaning: you can get a sharp image from it), then it acts globally.

Hahahaha, you really seem to be all over it. XD Though I have to admit, I'm in love with those stills, too. Simply wonderful. A dolly? Come on, man - how will I find one in the middle of nowhere? I'll be lucky enough if my sister decides to help me. And as much as I love and trust her, no 'tracking tripod shots' made with her clumsy hands for me.

Alright, now all we need for X Mount is the Sigma Mirrorless Trifecta - 16/1.4, 30/1.4 and 56/1.4

Dear lens enthusiasts, I plan on doing a showoff of my adapted projection lenses with a little comparison to 'normal' consumer glass. Initial plan was to put the camera on a tripod, put a tiny something around 70 cm in front of it, then have a human subject (most likely me) sit around ~ 2m in front of the camera and, finally, some deep background with just a bit bokeh in it. Rack focus between those three. Time and place of shoot: golden hour, somewhere outside, non-controlled environment. No color charts (I don't have any), no corner-to-corner sharpness tests. Maybe I'll manage to put an anamorphic adapter in there, too. A visualization of what I have in mind (apart from the color chart): Examples taken from this test. Thoughts?

Thanks for bringing this up, @PannySVHS - don't know how I could've missed this, but I did. @Ingerson, that's a truly great short. Those first shots and on-point sound design made me watch it in one sitting, with no interruptions - and that's something! Not so much was shown on screen, which in turn awoke my imagination from a deep slumber. Amazing storytelling.

What are the reasons that make you consider Z CAMs? I had A7 Mark III for a while and it was a tremendous camera. Too good for me at the time, so I sold it, haha. Are you willing to entirely replace it and its hybrid capabilities with something so video-centric as Z Cam? Sure, those specs look interesting, but, after having skimmed through almost every camera system available, I no longer recommend looking at specs only. If it's your hobby, then you either like the camera so much that you enjoy taking it out and using it or it keeps lying waste, no matter if it shoots 8K and whatnot. What's my setup? Fujifilm X-T3. I've had it for almost a year and I'm sure it's gonna stay with me for a quite some time. It's a really capable camera and I feel I'm the one that caps its potential. Anamorphic department: the most accessible and budget solutions available - ISCO Ultra Star and a single focus called myFM made by Eugene from Siberia. I'm sort of a cheapskate, so there is quite a lot of DIY elements in what I do, hahahahha.

Hello, hi! That's a great setup. Aivascope gives a gorgeous image and is really handy. I'm jealous! Well, you answered your own question - those modes allow you to get a widescreen aspect ratio, but without an anamorphic look. Surely, there are benefits to this - if you plan on delivering the final image in 2.4:1, then you don't waste storage space and processing power on pixels you won't use. But at the same time - if you wanted to do some re-framing in post, add some head room, etc. then you're out of luck, because there is no data there. I'd rather be on the safe side and shoot at 16:9 with 2.4:1 framing in mind and then crop it in post. And, as you can see from the chart, those widescreen aspect ratios let you record a bit higher FPS video. C4K in 2.4:1 goes up to 120 FPS in H265, whereas "normal" C4K allows 'only' 90 FPS. If you really want to take use this sensor to its full potential, then you'd shoot 6K Open Gate and put some anamorphic glass in front. Even your Aiva would do. After desqueezing this setup would roughly give you a 2:1 image, which is a Netflix standard. Pretty neat.

Those were quite gorgeous 10 years..

It is the weakest strength of the circular BPMs. You can get a 1/16 Black Pro Mist in a 4 x 5.65" format.