DanielVranic

Ooof those look nice, but about 9x the price of the ones I have linked.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/996063-REG/glide_gear_syl_960_syl_960_elite_camera_track.html https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/996065-REG/glide_gear_syl_101_aluminum_track_with_carry.html This is the other dolly I am looking at and highly considering.

Hey everyone. Looking for a dolly recommendation for an upcoming shoot. I would like to own one for my own pet projects, so this is why I am considering buying vs renting. I saw that Glidegear DEV, as well as the track and tripod dolly setup. Does anyone have a recommendation? Or maybe something else I should be looking for? I want to mount everything in the photo (minus handles and shoulder pad)

I use this and love it. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1087198-REG/manfrotto_3_section_tripod_with.html

That rig is amazing. I have duplicated it (minus some cabling) and it is extremely balanced and comfy to use. Was your contribution supposed to be helpful?

Hey everyone. I built out my BMPCC4K exactly like this Only difference was that I am using an AndyCine A6 which worked perfectly with my XT3, but will not cooperate with my P4K! I will get just a solid blue screen and nothing else. As anyone ever experienced this, or have a fix? Or do I just need a new monitor? I have my entire build done and It is super comfortable, just really useless and frustrating that my monitor won't cooperate

There is not unfortunately. I think shutter speed (?) ramps quicker and smoother, but youll have to try it

Looking at https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1445265-REG/fotodiox_eos_mft_fusion_redux_pro_fusion_redux_adapter.html https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1456828-REG/viltrox_ef_m2_canon_ef_lens_mount.html OR is the Ultra 64 the best?

Hey everyone. I am picking up a P4K next week and I am using the Sigma1.8 Zooms. I plan on using the glass full manual, but the aperture is controlled electronically. I really do not want to spend 650$ on a Metabones, as I am never using the AF, but still need the electronic connects. What does everyone recommend?

I personally feel that when I use my XT3, along with a customer Powergrade I built in Resolve has gotten me extremely close to the "digital film" look, and I am extremely happy with it.

Wow! This one looks good. Few things...Not super huge on the FF placement. Doesn't seem easy to adjust on the fly, same with the tripod mount. How would this get locked down?

Hey all. Building out a shoulder rig for one of my X-T3's and I am in need of some input. My XT3 has the battery grip, so I am not sure if I want to just get the bigger cage or not, and that also do not really think I need the secondary battery. Caleb Pike made those two videos on the perfect handheld and the perfect shoulder rig. I will link below. Does anyone have any other suggestions that I should be aware of? I use Sigma 1.8 zooms, and they are not full manual glass. Will the Nucleus-N work? Using the AndyCine monitor, could one power the motor off of that?

We finally agree on something! I only use it for updates and even then I get nervous.

Yup. Last night I updated the camera, adapter and lenses to all the latest

So I did go out and buy the Fringer adapters and the 18-35 works perfectly. Just as good as native. Its a noisy lens, but with a Rode VideoMic it is perfect. Cant hear a thing. BUT. The 50-100 was supposedly optimized for use with the XT3 and the adapter for Smooth Video AF but it is really jerky and quick - not at all like the attached video. Are there settings I am missing by chance?

What would everyone say is the best EF-FX AF adapter? The Fringer appears to be the winner, but I am unaware of any others!

Hello! I have decided to stop using SD cards for the Fuji XT3's and I want to go with an external recorder to get the benefits of ProRes and extended record times. This is totally new to me, but in some of my research, I have seen not a ton of people digging the NinjaV... I am in need of 2 of the recorders, and I have a ceiling budget of 2000$. What does everyone think would be the best option? This seems like the best option, but the reviews.... https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1456049-REG/atomos_ninja_v_5_4k.html

I have the 35 f2. LOVE IT! I just wish i had something brighter. I have a Speedboosted Helios, which is f2.14 equiv. And that is perfect for me, so I am trying to find something in that range.

So far every review of the EF-FX2 has been extremely poor so I have not considered it. Been looking at the Fringer, with a Sigma 30f1.4 Art. I have not found any good examples of how well it works in spot AF. For my video work on my gimbal, I always set the square on the eye-line of my third grid and just make sure I frame with that. I just need to make sure that works well.

Hey guys, I have (2) XT3's that I use for photo and video. Mostly video oriented. Been doing some live events and weddings lately with them and they work really really well. One thing that has been on my mind, has been faster glass. I came from a Sony system with really fast glass. FF with 1.4 or 1.8 all around. Now I love the video and ergonomics so much better but wish I didn't have to pump the ISO up so much during the receptions or during the lulls of an event. So my main question is this. Is the AF on the 35f1.4 that bad? Everywhere I look its people saying how bad the AF is. And with most of these events, I do need AF. If I didn't, I know there is some new cine glass from SLRMagic that is T1.3 that fits, but for live shows and weddings, a fully manual system just wouldn't work super great. So I guess my question is whether I go with the 35f1.4 or adapt an EF or go full manual (which in that case I have plenty of options) Thoughts?

I personally use Davinci and I have never seen banding on my X-T3 footage. Not once.

Please post photo examples. And the reason I ask is I just shot an entire short at an open field/horse barn and graded the entire project using GHALEX and there is not one trace of banding. Not even in the outdoor shots going directly into a blue sky, all the way to a way underexposed inside the barn office and even then it was just fine. Even before on the old thread, I was unable to make my Fuji's footage band at all. I am coming from shooting on Sony's.. so I know what banding is! Is it entirely possible that you have a bad copy? I have googled and googled and you are the only person I have found that has issues with banding on a Fuji system. Every search I have done for it has brought up issues with photo and the ES, but nothing for the 10bit video.

Thanks for the tip. I have found that I am enjoying a 5-node workflow for this. 1. WB Corrections/Balances 2. Flog/FGammut-VLog/VGammut 3. Adjustment node, using the LGG wheels, (i do not know how to due a hue-locked curve, will look into it) 4. GHa/GHa Linear (depending on which look i am feeling) 5. Saturation/Balance adjust That workflow has worked excellent for me so far! I need to look into those hue-locked curves though!

Node based workflows are superior to layers and lumetri by a long shot. That feature is one of the biggest and best that DaVinci offers. I used to think otherwise when I was using Adobe alot, but I can not work any other way.

I am in the same boat Jonesy. Resolve has some great features. But it seems all of my actual paying projects I do in Adobe because of the file organization, and the ease of editing. Someday I hope to fully transition over.