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I have to find the time to do it so can't promise anything atm. Your finding is similar to mine. I only use the 37 for the occasion shot and much prefer the 35 F2 for the same reason. Another issue with the mir 37mm is the big minimum focus distance. Not a deal breaker but can be annoying sometime. Here is a still from Mir 35 f2

From widest to tightest Mir 20M-MC 20mm F3.5 Mir 24M 35mm F2 Mir 1B 37mm F2.8 Helios 44-2 58mm F2 Helios 40-2 85mm F1.5 For anyone who wishes to know the performance of this set, check out this short from Corridor. This is mine with the helios 58

I blame @kye for this ?

I don't know but I prefer the look of the new bmpcc4k in your clip. I used to have a BMPCC and to be honest I would be happy with either of them. But side by side like that, I would take the new bmpcc4k. On a side note, tried some vertical filming the other day.

How did you find colour matching fuji and bm?

you're talking about my post. FYI, I haven't tested it out yet since no one sells it to Australia.

is there anyone use his/her bm for street "photography" ? Since I don't want to carry another camera, I shoot quite a bit at low shutter angle and just grab still frame from it. The resolution works quite well for me since instagram is my main publishing platform https://www.instagram.com/harrykise/

they might add the locking mechanism from cine series since bmp4k is a proper cinema cam.

thanks for the head up. I'm aware of your concerns -the 8v should be able to run the camera but not be able to turn it on. So it requires a battery inside the camera at all time. This is similar to using a Sony NP power sled without step up transformer built in. I do have a sony NP power sled and other battery option like the batbox 4k but I'm looking for a smaller setup with a monitor. -Tom Antos did fired a couple of his monitors. However, he power it through the 8v dc out of the monitor. My plan is actually power form the dc out of the battery. -They used to have an older version of the battery with 12v dc out which would be perfect. Unfortunately they "upgrade" it

any knows which store has this battery and ships to Australia? Thinking about switching to this power option when my shinobi arrives

I used MIR 35mm F2 with a focal reducer. I love your natural grade. Would you mind sharing the process ?

P4k. Braw Q5. Iso 1250. I can’t remember the wb. Would need to check the meta data when I get home

I think I will throw a dark screen to this mix my grade o_1_22.2.tif

Sigma 18-35 f1.8 and rokinon 85 f1.4 for sharp mordern look MIR 35f2, helios 58f2 and helios 85f1.5 for vintage dreamy look. I might add a MIR 20mm f3.5 to complete this set. I blamed @kye for the second set. He’s responsible for a quite a few good things in my life lately. Boys, it came out so wrong?

Since I have the ringleader's permission

that was my plan but it doesn't seems to work like that. In my perfect world, the external power bank would be completely drained first. The internal battery kicked in and I'd be notified by the AC turning to percentage. Then I'd simply swap the power bank to keep the rig going.

Can I post a film that I made it before this challenge but still fit the rules? and Can I stretch the friendship and have a 1:18 clip? ?

I have similar issue. From my observation, The BM battery came with my camera (2000mAh) ran fine with my external power rig for 2.5 hours. At this point, the battery bank cannot provide enough power any more and the camera start to drain the power from the battery. And I ran into the same issue of the camera can't turn back on again. The OEM canon battery I have (1800mAh) can't work with the external power rig at all and drain after 1hour. Which is exactly like your case. My work around is having a few 2000mAh LP-E6 in my bag just in case. But I would like to see if there's better solution.

Thanks for the image. Here is my contribution. Just a quick grade so highlight was blown quite a bit Interesting. while the colour looks fine on my mac display. It has heavy green cast on my iphone. Could someone please tell me what you see on your screen?

as a fellow oz I know your pain. If you don't have an external monitor or rig and just want a cheap sun hood, I'd recommend getting these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/L128-PAD-Monitor-Hood-Sunshade-Sun-FPV-For-DJI-MAVIC-Phantom3-4-PRO-SPARK-Osmo/153351269249?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 works like a champ

here is something for you. Can't remember the setting on top of my head but you can read the metadata. Not the best clip but hope it fits the bill. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DGuG51b0oUt1nzQqNdEraskon4stiWae/view?usp=sharing

It might due to the fact that my ssd is almost full. It must take extra time to read the existing footage for playback.

I have been doing quite a bit of raw testing and so far so good. Has anyone worked out a good braw workflow yet? Some still grab from my test yesterday (SOOC all metadata, no sharpening added):

he came back to me after 2 days but I have to say I have the advantage of being local to him My issue after 6.2 is that while it boots up pretty quickly, it takes about 10-20 sec to read my ssd. Still bloody fast if you compare with almost any other cinema camera

I do. I don’t promote stuff that I haven’t used. The issue is Tea is a one man band. And it’s the wedding season atm in Australia which is his main business. I can vouch for the guy and his after sale service. He replaced my faulty unit within a week so I’m a happy camper. here is my run and gun setup