eatstoomuchjam

As one, I'd say yes. That would be an improvement over now. I'll be delighted if Nikon are able to get AF on Red to even close to where it was on Sony/Canon 3-5 years ago. Heck, even a face-only AF mode would be just fine.

Yeah - I saw that they're releasing a firmware version 2.0 with that. It remains to be seen - they sort of pulled a Fuji a while ago by releasing some firmware that they complained improved face detection AF. Then some YouTubers tested it and declared it "fixed" or "better." Then everybody else used it and collectively agreed that it isn't usable. I'm sure those same YouTubers are really pumped now about how 2.0 will fix all the stuff they said was fixed in 1.2.5 (or whatever the version was). 😅 Anyway, control of the mount can only have so much to do with whether they can detect a face in the screen and correctly use PDAF points to focus to it, and then stick on it and not jump to other stuff or the background, etc. It might have a bit to do with smoothness of the rack or whatever, but my complaints about bad AF are much more in the category of "why the fuck did it jump to the background and stay there instead of on the face that never left the frame?" and "stop pulsing, you're not CDAF." It's hard to imagine that's the fault of the lens mount, but... I suppose we'll see! Not strictly only rumors - the Megadap guy shared a picture of one he was working on - but as you said, there's not really been anything since then. Hope springs eternal, though! At least for now, I have focus gears and DJI lidar to give AF to my M lenses. As you said, they're pretty different. I'm not likely to give up my K-X or my Komodo if I get a cine 12k - and definitely not my Ronin 4D. They all complement each other and I'd be apt to use various combinations of them on short film shoots. It's hard to say. Apparently their recent financial results were pretty bad. The big question is whether they will want to keep the extremely high margin, but smaller customer base of Red or if they'll drop the margins in the hope of higher sales. My guess is that they'll keep Red as a halo brand with high prices and dedicated cinema bodies - and that we'll see Redcode RAW on upcoming high-end Nikon-branded mirrorless bodies, as well as the SOOC colors converging between the two lineups. It's a strategy that works really well for Canon so Nikon might want to emulate it.

I never tried that one, but the range sounds nice! Just to be clear, though, with the Komodo and/or Komodo-X with their current firmware, to say they offer AF is technically true, but if you're using it for anything you care about, you're probably going to suffer heartbreak. Also, FWIW, there's a company who has announced a Leica M to Canon RF autofocus adapter. It's anybody's guess what it will cost or if it will even ship, but... hopefully soon? The last price cut really generated rage in the userbase. I suppose the question is whether they'd gain more customers through a price drop than they would lose future sales due to people angry that their $10k camera investment dropped 50% in just a few months.

I just watched the PetaPixel review. That sucker has a 95mm front thread! That's another minus when paired with a camera that has no internal ND filters - and last time I checked, nobody had any sort of clip-in inline filter for the K-X yet (or if there were any, they were expensive enough that I ignored them). Kolari have one for the OG Komodo, but it doesn't fit the X. PP didn't mentioned whether the lens was parfocal - judging by the lack of back focus adjustment lever, I'm guessing it's not completely, potentially relying on autofocus for that (which isn't ideal when shooting Red, where the AF is right on the line of usable/unusable which means you get tempted to use it and then pissed off when it doesn't work right). Also, it's focus-by-wire which, as long as it can be set to linear response in camera, is potentially OK, but it's going to piss off a lot of filmmakers. That and zoom being by wire also might actually be some slight benefit here because it might mean that one can set them to work in the correct direction, unlike nearly every other Nikon lens ever made. So basically, Komodo-X with Z mount, potentially cool. Wonder if they'll offer a retrofit service and/or do the same for OG Komodo. Komodo-X combo with this lens? Hard pass from me.

Cool that Reds will now have the most flexible lens mount on the market! I suppose that opens up a ton of Sony E mount options too since there's an adapter for E->Z. For most of the shoots I do, a 28-135 on the K-X wouldn't be ideal - but if you don't need anything wider than 37mm FF equivalent, it'll probably look great. For affordable zooms on an S35 camera, I still can't think of any that I'd rather have than the Fujinon MK's. I finally picked up a used set mid-last year (along with a kit to replace the E mount with RF) and I've been delighted! The 18-55 has barely been off my K-X since then. With A Z mount and the E mount adapter, there's no longer even a need for the RF conversion!

Do you have a goal of recording in braw? I have the VA 12G (both a 5" and a 7") and it's a good screen, but it won't stand out vs a lot of others unless you want to use it as a recorder as well. As for the rest, if you like SmallHD and you're familiar with their menus, and if they cost less than PortKeys, I'd just do that. And if you can avoid it, just don't buy anything at all from Atomos. They're a garbage company.

So if you'd be using the Lenovo laptops, you'd need to understand their power draw in the scenarios where you'd be using them and then size battery accordingly. Newer laptops will use less - and many can be powered by USB-C which makes running from DC trivial. My macbook (14" m2 max) pulls up to about 100w when doing an export, but I can use it just about all day unplugged if it's just for web browsing, etc. I'm sure that there are modern Lenovos with the latest Intel or AMD chips that use less power too. The GPU will still be a power hog, though, generally speaking. So that's a vote against diesel, then! If diesel is problematic in at least one country where you plan to go, then gas is the better option. A 4WD sprinter, especially if lifted a bit, equipped with off-road tires, and properly weighted, will get you a lot further off-grid than a stock 4 runner towing big heavy camper. Extra bonus, as far as I know, Sprinters are sold/available in lots of countries. You could also look into a Delica, especially since you're accustomed to driving on the wrong side of the vehicle already. It's a Mitsubishi van that was built for off-road performance. Specs are slightly worse than an Outback which means it's better than about 80% of stock pickups. (But comments about parts availability are relevant with a Delica!)

Viewing distance definitely matters! I didn't watch the video yet, but I remember that Kodak used to have a billboard (or mural?) in Grand Central Terminal in NYC that bragged that the photo on it was taken on Kodak's own 35mm film... and since it was high up, everybody was viewing it from 20-30 meters away. 😅

Are you serious? A 2U server in a camper? That's going to be awfully noisy and expect to drain your batteries in about an hour. If you'd be insistent on a NAS, a 2nd gen Flashstor 12 is probably a better option. You could probably also power it by DC from your battery pack which is more efficient. https://www.asustor.com/en-gb/product?p_id=91 Just keep in mind that portable drives will use less power and in many cases, be faster than a 10gE NAS. IMO, you need to think about your goals. You're talking about an overlanding rig capable of going anywhere, but then you're talking about a huge 6,000+ pound camper that looks to be about 25 feet long that you'd be towing behind a 16-foot 4Runner. Those are not compatible configurations. Even in the video that you linked, the trailers that they were using were much smaller overlanding setups that are about 8-10 feet long. If your main goal is to get a setup that you can take all over the world and drive into crazy places, my suggestions are: - Total length of vehicle + trailer is less than 30 feet, better if less than 25, ideally less than 20 (i.e. no trailer at all) - Choose a vehicle that is available in a lot of places. If you break down in another country and you're in a car that is available in that country, you have a good chance of finding suitable replacement parts. If you're in a car that isn't sold in that country, you could be choosing between a long wait for parts (but maybe you'll make new friends in whatever town you're in!) and jerryrigging a solution that will probably break down again - Similarly, choose a fuel option based on what will be easily available where you're going. Is gasoline as available in every country as diesel? By now, probably yes, but you should confirm that. - Unless you have shore power available every night or plan to run a gasoline generator, you will have a power budget that is determined by how many solar panels you can realistically fit on your vehicle (and potentially some folding ones that you deploy when stationary). Your solar panels and batteries will be DC devices. When possible, choose DC powered options over AC powered (~10% efficiency gain/loss) and avoid things that are power hungry. A Windows gaming laptop with a dedicated GPU can be great for editing footage, but if it's pulling 150W of power while you're editing, you'll drain your battery pretty fast, especially if you're also running Starlink (120W continuous draw for mine with the v2 dishy, the new smaller dishy might be a bit less, and a little less yet if you do DC conversion). - Conversion to sleeper mode should take only a few minutes and ideally, only a few steps. A daily 20 minute setup/teardown gets old fast - Pay attention to weight distribution, you want the heavy stuff on the bottom of the car, as much as possible - that'd be batteries, water, etc. MrSMW's suggestion of a non-overlanding RV and a dirtbike is a really good one, btw, for many places that one might want to go. It might limit you a bit in very remote areas, but there's a lot to be said for staying on fairly maintained roads until you don't have to. You could even split the difference with a 4WD sprinter (I think these can also be lifted a little bit?) which will get you even more places - and a dirtbike can get you that extra little bit.

This is actually on the right track. Before I bought my Wrangler and kitted it out, I took the car that I had (Subaru Outback) and took the sort of road trip that I wanted for 6 weeks, and I made things as inconvenient for myself as I could. I brought a ground tent, but stayed in the back of the car most nights which meant shifting stuff around for 5-10 minutes. It was a great way to figure out what stuff I actually used vs what I didn't use and at the end of 6 weeks, if I didn't use something and resented moving it around every day to sleep, that thing was stored and never brought on a road trip again. The Subaru could go most of the places that I wanted, but not all. So I chose one of the few vehicles more capable (Wrangler) and built out my platform system/power to match my preferences and needs. What I have works perfectly for me and every time I'm out camping, I feel like I'm living the dream. Except, you know, when I spend half a day jerryrigging a 125 pound rooftop tent back onto my car after the roof rack almost dropped it on the ground. But for a lot of people, spending 2-3 months in my setup would be absolutely miserable. Have you considered doing a smaller and less ambitious trip with what you have in order to shake out your needs/wants?

For the vehicle, a Landy is a great option. venture4wd has one as his secondary vehicle and a lot of his content lately has been driving it all over the mountains in Arizona. For a trailer to take off-road, you should think about that long and hard before making the jump. I'd rank buying a pull-behind camper as one of the worst decisions I've made in my entire life. The one I got was not specifically an overlanding camper or whatever, but it had decent enough ground clearance - but even as a fairly short trailer (about 15 feet), it plus the tongue basically doubled the length of my car (my Wrangler is about 19 feet long) which is awful when you're on a small dirt road that someone gated off. And that's note even starting to get into how often it broke, the difficulty of repairs, etc. I ended up selling it at a huge loss (bought for $10k, put in about $2-3k in upgrades, sold for about $3-4k) and felt grateful to be rid of the fucking thing. YMMV, of course. Given your plans, you may also want to check out Dan Grec's page/channel. He hit every country in Africa in a Wrangler with Ursa Minor camper shell, a setup similar to venture4wd's beloved Orangie. He also has a lot of thoughts about what is and isn't important. What sort of NAS do you have in mind? Keep in mind that bouncing around on rough roads will have a negative impact on spinning hard drives, even if they're turned off/parked. My solution for longer-term trips is a handful of 4T SSD's and just copy everything to two of them and keep them in different parts of the car (and/or trailer if you have one). I also have some OWC thing that takes two 2.5" SATA SSD's and does hardware RAID-1 - so I use that with 2 4T drives in it. This depends a lot on the rooftop tent and your goals. My hardshell RTT (iKamper Skycamp Mini) sets up and comes down in around 2 minutes and I can leave a pillow and some blankets inside it. That's faster than any ground tent I've used (I've used Coleman pop-ups which set up in about 5 minutes and come down in, realistically, about 10 if you actually pack it back into a bag properly - the bags suck). It also facilitates camping on a pullout in a dirt road where a tent isn't feasible. If you're moving around a lot, it's great. If you're going somewhere for a week at a time and staying there, the extra few minutes in setup/teardown is a lot less annoying. I'm actually going to sell mine this Spring, but not because I don't like the tent itself - but because despite having a heavy-duty Rhino Rack roof rack, after tens of thousands of miles with the tent on the car, the roof rack started falling apart. Two years ago, my camping trip was cut short by it nearly falling off the car (roof rack loosened) and last year, I ended up immediately taking it back off the car (and injuring my arm in the process) because the now-repaired roof rack re-broke, this time requiring a replacement part that Rhino took something like 4 months to ship to me (despite that the rack is still a current product that they are selling). Now I'm revising my platforms in the car so that I can sleep inside. Again, it depends on the use case and where you are! For me, if I'm staying in an established campground, I can use their toilets. If I'm off-grid, I have a Cleanwaste Go, a sturdy folding plastic toilet that can be used either to poop into a hole in the ground or into a little plastic baggie full of what is basically kitty litter. It ain't glamorous, but it works. But if I were trying to camp out in an event center parking lot for a week, my setup sucks. I'd just get a hotel room at that point. 😃

As far as IQ goes, it depends on the presentation. If the intended presentation is a computer/TV screen (which most are these days), it could be argued that anything above 24 megapixels is more about cropping than IQ. 24 megapixels is more than 2x what a 16:9 4K screen can display natively. If the presentation is going to be a 16x20 print at 300 dpi, around 30 megapixels will suffice. For video, in a lot of ways, a high megapixel sensor is less-than-ideal since it will need either a crazy readout speed and fast processor or it will need to result to various forms of binning/skipping.

As far as action cameras, if it's your own vehicle, I'd use GoPro's adhesive mounts for things like mounting the camera on the underside of the bumper - and it's not just a naive suggestion. I've done exactly that with my own Jeep. At least in the case of the Jeep, there are also screws in the bumper that are intended for mounting things like winches - in my case, I custom-made some mounts with 1/4" and 3/8" screws for mounting camera gear - at least on the front bumper. I also custom-made some mounts to add a 3/8" screw to my roof rack. The driving footage in this video is a mix of bumper cameras and roof rack camera, with a Sony ZV-1 for some of the handheld and car footage and the OG GFX 100 for the rest. You can also get clamps and strong suction cup mounts for less-permanent attachment of gear to the vehicle, just with the caveats that usually come with them, like the spot for the suction cup needs to be clean or you'll lose it with whatever is attached. And the clamp, similarly, needs to be well-secured (lost a cheap action camera (Yi 4K+) in Chile because the clamp apparently got loose and the camera wasn't mounted in a place where I could see it. You don't need a lot of action cameras for this and you don't need the latest/best either. In fact, if a rock knocks off your under-car action camera and it gets lost, you'll feel a lot less bad if it's, for instance, a Hero 10 than a Hero 13. Depending on how smooth you want the footage to be and how dusty the area is, you could also look into something like the movmax blade arm to mount your Osmo Pocket 3 to the car.

I was also about to post about Chimp Empire which I watched after that recommendation! Also, I haven't seen all of King Coal yet, but the trailer and various clips that I've seen from it looked great. The C70 is also pretty affordable nowadays, as things go. Is it the sharpest camera on the market? Nope. You can always rent it, though, to see if it meets your needs. As far as lenses for the C70, instead of buying the latest shiny RF glass, you could also consider permanently affixing Canon's 0.71x focal reducer and using EF glass which is plentiful on the used market and very good. If you're focused on Canon, you could also look at the original R5 which is now available used for about $2,000 and has a nice 8k raw image. I'd also say that, had you not already said you're using the DJI Pocket 3, it would have been my first suggestion... or maybe my second suggestion after an iPhone 16 Pro (or whatever the latest fancy Android phone with a great camera is, probably a Samsung something-or-others). The iPhone can put out some really nice-looking ProRes log footage and it's one of the few cameras out there which will work well in every scenario you mentioned - whereas the C70 is not fantastic in low light and unless you buy a housing costing as much as the camera, won't work well after you submerge it in the water. Working on technique and editing/storytelling is going to do a lot more for your overlanding vlogs than buying $10,000 in gear... venture4wd, one of the most popular overlanding YouTubers uses a combination of action cameras and a Panasonic - I think an S5 II? And he didn't upgrade to the Panasonic until his channel was already big.

In a lot that I've seen, they conclude in the end that the Alexa's picture is nicer, but not 20x nicer (or whatever the price multiple is). They're completely correct. If you're an owner-operator shooting corporate talking heads or weddings or short films with a budget of about $1k, you'd be crazy to buy an Alexa for it. On the other hand, if you're shooting a feature film with a budget of 200 million dollars and the cost for several Alexas is about 0.2% of your budget (as IronFilm pointed out), you're probably not thinking in terms of value, but about the "best" tool to create the image. Similarly, you'd be crazy to buy a 12-18 million dollar F1 racecar to commute to work. It's a terrible value compared to like, a Toyota Camry. But if you show up on the track at Interlagos on race day driving a Camry...

My mistake! I didn't realize you were limiting the pixel shift comments to it being processed in-body. Last I checked, it still needed to be done in post. Sorry for the misunderstanding!

Are you talking about a higher-resolution mode using sensor shift? Fuji does this too, at least on the GFX 100 series. Though if the Olympus/Panasonic/Pentax implementations support doing it handheld, that's an improvement over Fuji's which requires a very stable tripod. The original Canon R5 could do it too - no idea how well it worked, but I think I read that they removed the mode from the R5 II in favor of "AI" upscaling... a place where "progress" isn't.

As others have said, for the most part, proper lighting and grading is often more important than the image straight out of the camera. Though with that said, Alexa is still the most flexible image that you'll find coming out of a camera, That's followed by Burano and V-Raptor and most recently, apparently, Ursa Cine (still needs more time for user tests to confirm/deny, but the tests on paper are impressive. If you're shooting a film with a big budget, your A camera is almost definitely Alexa. Why? Because it's the most flexible image. Because your high-end gaffer will automatically know how to light well for it. Because your high-end editor and colorist will instantly know how to push the footage around and probably have pre-defined workflows for working with it. Is it still the best image? Arguable. If you're shooting a decent budget indie flick, you're more likely to find Burano/Venice or V-Raptor? Why? Similar things to the above, but you're paying less than Alexa. If you're shooting lower budget than that, it's a complete crapshoot. It'll probably involve the letters F, X, and 6, but if it's a run and gun documentary, it might involve C300 and/or C70. From what I've seen, if you want to penetrate the bigger productions, you're better off not trying to compete with Alexa for A camera, but to aim to make secondary cameras that fit in places where it doesn't. Civil War, for example, famously used the Ronin 4D for a bunch of the handheld stuff because it's a quick/easy gimbal camera with decent autofocus. I hear they're making inroads on other productions too for similar reasons - and on other stuff because, like, the 4d flex is great for tight spaces and/or car-to-car shots. The most recent Mission Impossible and the upcoming one use Z Cam E2-F6 as crash cameras because they're cheap (for Hollywood), make a great image, and are reliable (no overheating, you can basically hammer nails with the body all day and then go record some video at night). That footage of Tom Cruise flying off a cliff on a motorcycle? Nearly all Z-Cam. Anyway, the point is that the image SOOC on high-end cameras should look good. Should it look THAT much better than a mirrorless camera in the hands of a proficient operator? Nope. Just a few weeks ago, Kye posted some stuff that he shot in Korea using, if I remember right, the original BM micro studio camera from like a hundred years ago. Looked great. You could project it in a cinema as part of a feature and the audience would be none the wiser to the camera used.

It's also not super inspiring to say that a camera from 2022 is "latest and greatest tech." 😅

I think Leica already beat you to that idea. Except they reduced the usefulness of it by making it only work with their app, for some reason.

I read the announcement and watched the PetaPixel video and all I could think was "So you're telling me that I can get the guts/specs of a middle-of-the-road camera from 2022 in a sort of different body with no handgrip and it'll only be $1,999? Where do I sign up?! I can go get any of a few vaguely retro-styled Fuji X-something-or-other bodies with IBIS for less money and they will also have better resolution (25ish megapixels), 6K video, and probably better readout speeds/dynamic range. Or I could get a GH7 and use many of the same lenses and have 6K raw internal recording. Not looking good for OM systems if this is the best they could do. The 100-400 update is nice, I suppose - but even with that, isn't that just a rebadged Tamron lens? The big upgrade is that they convinced their partner to enable sync IS?

Or before he completely crashes the economy and gives us 3000% inflation. 😕 I suppose that I should stock up on vegemite too, just in case.

They already have a compact body around a full frame 6k sensor and an L mount. Also, if I'm not mistaken, that very camera was on sale last year for a crazy low price like $1500 or 1600. So... they already basically did what you're saying, especially in the context of 6k being plenty for 4k delivery with enough room for non-aggressive digital reframing. The pricing strategy on this one was originally V-Raptor [x] performance for about half the price of a brand new V-Raptor [x], but it's 12k and supports 3:2 open gate and 16:9 on a taller sensor than the Red - and also, within about a stop of Arri at... well, a whole lot less than half the price of Arri. The new pricing strategy is the same as a Komodo-X, just a bit more than a C80, and less than a C400, but the performance of V-Raptor [x] and 12k. Will it catch the first time camera buyer? Nope. Does it make their system a compelling option for the mid-range owner-operator? Yup. Theoretical, sure, but I don't think it's even remotely unreasonable to think that they'd support 8kp60 with a v-mount and CFE. Komodo-X does 80fps at 6k and at their chosen price point, that's sort of the competition. Still waiting for some to get in the hands of real users to hear their experiences, but once I'm back in the US, it's likely that I'll be exploring my options to trade in some of my stuff now (and probably some cash, sadly) toward one of these. It's kind of crazy, fwiw, to think that I could soon have a video camera that almost as much resolution in video as my GFX 100 II has for photos... though with maybe a little bit less dynamic range still... at least for single shot mode. When shooting in continuous mode (which never reaches more than 8fps), the GFX reduces DR.

Speaking as a person who needs anything over 24fps only rarely, it's great to know that I could easily do that on this camera, even using just standard CF Express cards, albeit with pretty frequent card swaps. And when needing higher speeds, increasing compression ratio is probably fine - not to mention that they're quoting open gate on that page and not 16:9 which I'd be more likely to use (looks like 17:9 crops 16:9) to crop to 2.39 for delivery (it can do scope internally too, but it's nice to have a little bit of room to shift the image up or down a bit in post, without needing a full 3:2 frame for it). Plus as long as there isn't a hit to the DR, I'd also be more likely to use it at 8K or 9K most of the time than to use it at 12K. It'll be interesting to see what people report once more of these suckers start getting into the hands of real people. Most of the tests I've seen have focused on performance in 12K mode which is understandable, but I'm really more interested in the very high dynamic range combined with very low rolling shutter. Edit: I just realized that in cined's lab test, they at least did the xyla 21 with the 4K mode as well as 12K and they were nearly identical - so the 8k/9k modes probably are too. The biggest drawback so far seems to be low light performance - but my Komodo-X is ISO invariant at 800 in raw with the camera-chosen ISO being more of a suggestion for where to distribute tones than adjusting sensor gain - and that's not been a problem at all since I got it.

The $7k version comes with a dual CF Express Type B module. That'd make its media costs no higher than most of my other current cameras. And sort of "free" since I have like 4-5T of decent CF Express B cards around. If recording to SSD is supported, even better. I have some of them too. 😉