eatstoomuchjam

To go a different way with this, if you have some budget, why even do anything with the Ninja V? A used Sigma FP will let you record uncompress 8-bit raw internally or 12-bit raw to a very small USB-C SSD (the Sabrent Nano works well - or get the Dark Power Lab one that fits on the side). A barebones FP setup is likely to be smaller and lighter than your Nikon even before you add the Ninja to it.

For monitoring, Z Cam have what is (by far) the best mobile app that I've used and if I remember right, it can record some sort of proxy in the phone. It can connect wirelessly or hardwired to the camera's usb-c port. As far as licensing codecs, Apple wouldn't need to "pay" anything to license ProRes or ProRes RAW for their phones, if they decided that recording from an external device was a thing they wanted to do... but it's a fairly niche feature so I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for them to do it.

I haven't weighed it, but I suspect that my 3d printed SSD holder with half of a Sandisk Ultra 3D 500GB in it weighs a little bit less than the Andycine thing, given that the Andycine one is metal and has multiple screws to hold everything in place. But the Andycine is already only 55g - so the weight savings would be extremely minimal (if they even exist)... and given that mine relies on holes for ventilation, I suspect that the Andycine will be more robust in light rain, etc. Anyway, if every single milligram counts, you could use mine as a start and modify it to be even smaller and lighter - I think the end away from the SATA interface could be about 3mm closer to the SSD and the ventilation holes could be made a bit bigger, at the cost of structural stability. In addition, instead of using the tiny screws to hold the SSD in place, you could use a few dabs of superglue. Overall, you might be able to drop the weight of my thing by around 20% with all those changes (but it already weighs almost nothing). To make it even lighter YET, you could probably just take the bare circuit board and use some sort of small shim to hold it the right distance from the inner shell and use a piece of tape to keep it from falling out. I feel like there used to be NP-F330's, but I can't remember if they were smaller (and if so, by how much) than an NP-F550. One thought is that there are different capacities of NP-F550 when I look on Amazon. Some of the lower-capacity ones might weight less (less lithium inside them) - as long as the manufacturers don't put some lead or similar in them to make them feel more "professional." Can you relocate some of the weight elsewhere? You could use a dummy NP-F with the Ninja and connect it to a V mount in a backpack or on your belt. Are you willing to modify the Ninja V itself and probably void your warranty and/or increase overheating risk? A simple first thing might be to remove as many screws as possible (if there are 4, usually two diagonal screws are enough to hold things in place, for example). In this YouTube video, the guy disassembles his to fix it. There are multiple sets of screws inside where you could almost certainly remove a few. Maybe there's a lighter version of the fan in a similar form factor. If you were going to mount it on a drone or similar, you could experiment with removing the cooling fan. If you're flying it around on a drone, there might be enough natural airflow to keep it from overheating. If you're handy enough, you could probably even run it completely without the backplate and just wire in some other battery to the contact points for the rear battery shield. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18hMNzn34R8

You mentioned that you think that the Fringer is the only viable EF-FX adapter - I'm curious if you (or anybody here) have tried the Steelsring for FX. It claims to enable PDAF similar to the one for the GFX. I use their adapter for EF lenses on my GFX 100 and while autofocus isn't as good as on a Canon, I find it to be about as usable as any of my native GF glass on that camera.

I don't notice a major color shift after the swap, though I no longer have any unmodified hero 5's to compare it with. I'm pretty sure I got the lens from Amazon. If you search for "M12," they have lots and they're mostly pretty cheap. I don't have a modified RX0 (or an unmodified RX0). As far as the modified GoPros... the Hero 5, I still use as a car camera. I have a couple of unmodified Hero 7's that I can use as car cameras if I want to go back to a wider angle or if it's extremely rainy or dusty. I haven't used the Ribcage Hero 7 for a lot of useful stuff, but I'll be starting to use it more in the near future, now that I got a holder that makes the annoying GoPro microphone connector a little less annoying. One of the reasons I'm always hunting for wide angle D mount lenses with sufficient coverage is that I'd love to use it as a vlogging camera, especially when in areas where I'm iffier about carrying around fancy-looking cameras (I've used the RX100 V for that, but even it draws some unwanted attention that something looking like a Frankencamera might not). It's mostly a fun/tiny camera where I can use my C/D mount lenses. I also want to use it in some upcoming short film projects in places where a GoPro might otherwise be used, but where the fisheye is not desirable. I may also try using it as a car camera with a fast lens sometime when it's getting dark enough that a standard Hero struggles.

inde - Yup, I also have a Yi 4k+ where I used a pliers to pull the original lens and a Hero 5 where I did the same. The Yi now has a 7mm lens semi-permanently installed and the Hero 5 has a 5.4mm lens semi-permanently installed and set to infinity. Not much need for glue on the Hero 5 - the M12 mount is tight enough that I had to use a pliers to screw the lens in. I like the look of the 5.4mm lens! It's still wide-ish, but not even nearly as crazy as the fisheye that came with the camera. The 7mm on the Yi might be a bit long for most things, but it's sort of nice for a motion timelapse with the camera on a gimbal. ? At some point, I got a crazy good deal on a handful of Yi 4K+'s... since I switched to GoPro, I have barely touched any of them - maybe I should just mod all of them with some sort of M12 lens. At least then, there would be some reason to keep them around. Having a better / more detailed lens might also make the bitrate hack more worthwhile. And you're right - the majority of action cameras (that I've seen), cheap to expensive, use some form of M12 mount with a 1/2.3" sensor... makes sense since there are cheap, but decent lenses available for that mount!

Unlike the others here, I've had pretty good luck with Ribcage products... to as much of an extent as can be reasonably expected. I first bought their kit to convert a Yi 4K+ to C mount and I somehow botched the installation, but they were willing to help me un-botch it in the end. Ultimately, I found that C mount lenses were extremely difficult to use with the Yi because... The internal screen is tiny and not very high-resolution. This made critical focus nearly impossible, even when using a loupe. There is no HDMI output option to use an external screen to check critical focus. It is possible to use an adapter to get composite output, but none of my external screens are composite... More recently, I bought a pre-assembled kit with a Hero 7 Black. This is a vastly better experience. The internal screen on the Hero 7 is much better-quality than the Yi and there is an option to digitally zoom in which is very useful for focusing. This is a little bit awkward, but works OK The camera has HDMI output which can be useful for focusing if I already have another screen, but this has limits - in video mode, the HDMI output is very laggy. In photo mode and timelapse mode it's very fast... but it is pretty awkward to have to change modes constantly in order to focus. Image stabilization is not very well-optimized for longer lenses so they end up still feeling sort of shaky I have found that a number of D mount lenses have sufficient coverage for the 1/2.3" sensor in the Hero 7. I'm still looking for a wide angle option without a hard vignette, but lenses in the 10mm and longer range seem to cover sufficiently... which is at least enough for a very minor telephoto with around a 10mm lens. I'm hoping, though, to find a 5mm or so D mount lens with enough coverage. Unfortunately, D mount lenses aren't super common on the used market. In this regard, the 1" sensor (2.7x crop) in the RX0 would be very strongly preferable. Whatever the Ribcage looks like internally or how much electronics purists turn up their nose at it, the camera feels plenty solid from the outside and mine has been banged around quite a bit. It still seems to be doing alright. The Hero 7 has HEVC at around 78 megabits/second. I would be curious to compare its output vs the RX0 with semi-cruddy HEVC-S at 100 megabits/second. In addition, the Hero 7 can handle 60 fps in 4k where the RX0 is only capable of 30 fps. On the other hand, the RX0 can output 4K at 422 for external recording if you don't mind bulking it up a little bit. The Hero 7 also has 2.7kp120 and 1080p240 options and I think both can be used continuously. The RX0 has 1080p240. Assuming that it's like my RX100 V, this mode will be limited to only a few seconds. I'm not sure how much any of this matters since the quality of all of the above is fairly mediocre. The RX0 has Slog. The Hero 7 has ProTune. I think both are usable enough with moderate dynamic range scenes. The RX0 almost definitely will work better in low light than the Hero 7 - and in addition, it's possible to use a speed booster with the Micro 4/3 mount where I am not aware of any decent-quality C mount speed boosters. In the end, I thought about buying the Ribcage RX0... but ended up deciding it didn't have enough advantages over the Ribcage Hero 7 to make it worth the swap. This is reminding me that I want to use the Hero 7 variant more... I suppose I'll make an effort to bring it with me the next time I go shooting.

I was just coming to say the same thing. The E2G has been shipping for a few months already, but since it is not very high-demand, it's generally a special order-only item. It's only a 1" sensor, though, and as far as I know, only up to 4kp30.

Big things are happening! I just received my E2C which is the smaller budget version of the E2. It can shoot 4k at up to 30fps in ProRes and it costs only $800 (I got it for a little less due to early bird preorder)! I'll be doing some comparisons of it vs my bigger E2 tomorrow, hopefully. Also, for the full-size E2, Z Cam just released firmware 0.86 which, among many other nice improvements, adds 4kp160 (2.4:1 instead of 16:9). I hope to find something that is moving tomorrow to play with that as well.

I won't use the term "color science" because it's really dumb in the context of a fairly simple matrix operation to map values read from the sensor to values to be output to a file. However, the colors coming right out of the camera look really nice to me - and the footage is really flexible. The camera's biggest weakness right now is audio. It really needs a powered mic to get decent performance. The engineers have promised an improvement with the next firmware release. The camera's second biggest weakness is CAF performance. It's really decent for contrast AF and is generally passable, but not a thing I would rely on for anything I cared about (though the human tracking mode is surprisingly good). For this, they are experimenting with add-on modules (ultrasonic and lidar have both been mentioned). We'll see what comes of that. Other than those two things, just about everything is really great. It's really shocking how much things improved between the E1 and the E2. If they didn't have the same logo, I wouldn't believe the cameras were made by the same company. I'm really happy with my purchase and I'm likely to jump on the preorder to get the APS-C camera with a m43 mount.

The P4K doesn't really have "better codec options" at this point unless you mean braw - and that will probably be less of a competitive advantage when ZCam release the first version of their raw implementation sometime this month. Otherwise, the ZCam has ProRes HQ at up to 4kp30 and ProRes 422 at up to 4kp60 as well as h.265 with decent bitrate. If you tested months ago, the quality of 4kp120 has improved since then - they upped the bitrate on it a bit. In the next release, they are upping it more (I think to 500 megabits/second). And you're very likely right about the A73 sensor - or something similar to it. In general, if you check the features of a Z-Cam vs a list of modern Sony sensors, you'll find that they align really nicely. It's why people keep asking about 4kp120 in the bigger sensor cameras and getting turned down. None of the bigger Sony sensors support it. The BMPCC4K is a great camera and a fantastic value, no doubt about it, but the E2 is also excellent and I'm glad I bought it over the BM. I love that I can rig it on a big heavy shoulder rig with huge EF lenses and F-970/V-mount batteries for long life... or I can throw on a tiny Micro 4/3 prime like the Panasonic 14/2.5 or 20/1.7 and put in an F550-type battery and have a super tiny light camera. The lack of a built-in screen is mitigated very nicely by being able to wire in my phone as a screen which I very much prefer to using wifi - it gives me an excellent 5" or so low-latency screen with a built-in battery. Not bad.

I had the E1 (was in on the original kickstarter at full price) and really didn't like it. I ended up selling it for almost nothing. I gave them another chance with the E2 and I really love it. It's a really huge leap ahead in usability and quality. There's firmware coming in April that should be addressing some/all of the complaints with the camera - including improving the audio and increasing the bitrate in 120p (they already increased it once, but they are increasing it again after users requested it enough). And FWIW, even though the firmware number is 0.xx, I wouldn't consider it a "beta." Z-Cam considers it to be release firmware and after November, I haven't had any stability problems with the camera at all. It's been absolutely rock solid for hours of shooting, including some stuff that I shot at -30F in Alaska in January.