FHDcrew

My oh my what an original comment.

Fair points for sure.

How about Matti Haapoja’s “epic fpv sea transition” video that was just an artlist AI ad disguised as a helpful video. The same bro who was gonna “take a break from YouTube and really get back to his creative roots for a year” now shilling Higgsfield AI whilst reviewing yet another lens in a sea of perfectly imperfect but still perfect lenses that are all the same and can be made to look however you want because there’s no bad gear anymore just the potential to either acquire or lack skill.

My path has been both of these lol. I’ve been a massive tech enthusiast since I was 8 years old…so I definitely have loved learning about and getting hype over gear, although it’s also very overblown and I don’t like the cycle we are in now. But I also fell in love with the creative process, the ability to improve my skills to be creative and get better at crafting cool images and edits to tell impactful stories. I’ve both drooled over camera’s and simultaneously gotten immense satisfaction when I figured out how to make my 7 yr old 8 bit Nikon footage look and grade just the way I wanted. I’m a gear head who also thinks spec wars are overblown anymore. A camera nerd who gets sick of the hype machine, but still enjoys to watch. A creative, who was horrible at any science or math class in high school, but who loves tech and can understand complex broadcast equipment and understand the technical aspects of this industry easily. An artist who hates painting and drawing but constantly has visual ideas. I’m a weird mix of both of those lol. But I also think many of us are this way.

@Djangoif you go c50 + gyroflow route then invest in the RSMB motion blur plugin. It’s the most realistic and dependable motion blur plugin I’ve owned and does a nice job adding back in convincing motion blur when you need to crank your shutter for gyroflow.

Literally the older canon r5 has ample dynamic range in the real world they all have ample DR.

Makes me feel we haven’t gotten amazing IQ leaps in the last 5 yrs…I mean heck the fx3 sensor in the a7siii also came out 5 yrs ago and I don’t see any “superior” lowlight cams on the market. Only “comparable”. For example a c50 will hold its own against the a7siii. But it’s not better. Or worse. Just a 5 year newer camera.

Very true. My first camera was a Panasonic G7. The g9II still obliterates the g7 in lowlight lol. But yeah most of the full frame options from the last 7 years are all outstanding. Also it’s funny how 5-7 yr old full frame bodies are still excellent. My Canon R6 came out 5 yrs ago. The Nikon Z6 I used to shoot with came out 7 yrs ago. I filmed recently with an original Sony a7iii at 8,000 ISO (but a very very well exposed image) and the image was incredibly clean. We are so spoiled with choices anymore.

Yep. Also you can lowkey get full frame at a similar size with slower lenses and higher high ISO. The Canon R6 at 25,600 ISO is much cleaner that the G9II in 6400 ISO. 2 stops cleaner. But also r6 is applying a lot more internal NR which is up to users taste on if they like. I don’t mind saves me time in post but I get how some might want a more pure image they can Denoise later.

Also it needs to be warp stabilizer; any of the stabilization algorithms in Davinci resolve don’t do as well and end up making the result worse. Warp stabilizer set to substance warp is quite good however. I actually am currently paying for just after efffects alone and have some scripts that let me quickly render a single clip in Davinci resolve, apply warp stabilizer in AE, render and import quickly back to Davinci.

I completely understand. What I can say is for some reason solid handheld technique + Canon IBIS + Canon DIS + ADOBE warp stabilizer is very consistent and stable. Worth a try. But I do get it, gyroflow is great too and uses real motion data. I’ve done a ton of filming on canon bodies though and this technique works really well. It’s not 100% perfect but I’d call it 95% perfect with a bit of tweaking.

Sadly sold the G9II. I realized I need good high ISO performance, and seems PDAF is disabled at real high ISOs. I scored a canon r6 for $929 and other than the overheating it’s great. And I can live wijt the overheating for how I shoot. IBIS can genuinely compete with LUMIX by having DIS on standard and using adobe’s warp stabilizer, somehow warp stabilizer absolutely thrives at stabilizing the type of leftover shakiness and artifacts of canon’s IBIS + DIS combo. Very consistently stable without warpy artifacts. Great high ISO performance. Lovely image in CLOG3. I did like the G9II. Its image was great. Best Ibis I’ve ever used. Very comfortable. Just realized I need better high ISO performance. Yes I could have gotten a super fast zoom like the sigma 18-35 1.8/speedbooster or Panasonic 10-25mm 1.7. But sometimes I REALLY need to push things at weddings or concerts, shooting at ISOs like 25,600. That’s beyond what the Gh7/G9II can handle.

This does require a good technique ofc meaning good crouched heel toe walk, holding the camera a bit loose and even using a neck strap helps. But when I shoot this way with canon IBIS + DIS Standard and then use warp stabilizer, the results are excellent and very consistent.

Something interesting about canon bodies with IBIS is that I find with a good walking workflow and adobe’s warp stabilizer the results rival gyroflow. Especially on wide lenses I can very consistently get beautifully stable resultS across multiple canon bodies with IBIS. For some reason adobe’s warp stabilizer absolutely thrives at stabilizing the type of footage coming out of these camera bodies with a good workflow. I’ve been able to get amazing results on an original canon r6, r5 and r7. For best results put DIS on Standard and then use warp stabilizer to carry it the rest of the way. 1-3% on warp stabilizer smooths out the jittery IBIS motion. 5% looks like a steadicam. 10% is near gimbal level. 50% is insane. so in some ways the r6 iii with this workflow could be more useful. The IBIS helps in this workflow meaning you in a lot of situations can keep your shutter at 1/50 and stabilize. Gyroflow without IBIS you really have to shoot at 1/200 or above.

Miss him. He also randomly deleted or privated a bunch of his older videos; I noticed this happen maybe 2-3 yrs ago. Tons of old Blackmagic videos, his awesome Canon XC10/XC15 review, etc etc.