FHDcrew

Yeah seems to pretty much do everything you want, minus internal ND, internal RAW video, and full-frame 4k60. Also to be honest I’m not a fan of the 20,000 pinned posts. You have to either hunt through these or scroll down a lot to see who has most recently posted.

It really sucks. Though to be fair mini HDMI, while still not ideal, is worlds better than micro hdmi. Mini HDMI is on the Z6, as well as some of the Canon RF range

I’m leaning more and more in that direction. I feel uneasy being dependent on mini HDMI and external recorders all the time for my image.

Can you send a picture?

Alright I need to devise a solution. I’ve got two external recorders for my Z6, an Atomos ninja v and an Atomos ninja star. They work great but I hate having to attach them each time I pull my camera off my bag. I’m also getting a “double” HDMI clamp solution. Basically what is used here, where we have a clamp for the camera’s HDMI port as well as a screw-in female HDMI cable. My question is how to rig this so that my recorder can stay attached, and this clamp setup can stay attached without bending the HDMI port on my Z6, saying as the camera will be in my bag which can be jostled around at times. I want the dual-clamp setup to remain plugged in, and I want either my ninja v or ninja star to stay mounted and ready to go when my camera is in my bag. So I can pull the camera out and begin shooting right away. Any recommendations?

Well if you go the Nikon and Megadap route, definitely let me know how well the the Megadap performs!

I read your posts in greater detail. You seem to want 6k or 8k to pull high-ish res stills from. No way would the ninja star help with that.

Only caveat of the ninja star, other than being discontinued and scarce on the used market, is that it uses micro hdmi 🤮

If you can live with C100-style oversampled 1080p, get a Nikon Z6 (or Z7) and pair it with an Atomos ninja star, to get improved autofocus versus your Panasonic system, while keeping 10 bit and log. Much cheaper way to get into the Z system. The ninja star is compact and doesn’t feel as intrusive as a larger recorder, such as the ninja v does. So your setup can stay decently light and compact. The Downsampled image is extremely clean, I use it for work all the time. All you need to do is set the camera record setting to 4k, and in the HDMI menu change the resolution from AUTO to 1080p. And the Megadap ETZ21 should work fine. Haven’t tried it, but assuming I stick with my Z6 I may pick it up.

Yeah the Z mount is strangely really the best option when it comes to adapting glass. You have the following options, all supporting continuous video AF Nikon F Mount - Nikon FTZ & FTZ II Canon EF - Fringer EF-NZ Sony E Mount - Megadap ETZ21 & Techart TZE-02 Nearly any manual lens - Megadap MTZ-11 I mean I can’t think of another system with all these options. And you still have the cheap viltrox autofocusing primes, or Nikon’s pricey but excellent S-line, if you want solid native Z mount glass Other systems may have even more native options to choose from, but they don’t have such a wide variety of near-native-performing adapting options. The Fringer EF-NZ is actually interesting, because you can pair it with quality sigma art glass and get good AF performance. Then you can turn around and buy a Sony plus the MC11 adapter. Now that same glass works on your new Sony camera. And then you can get a canon R5 or R5C or C70, use canon’s EF adapter, and keep the same lenses. Now you just went through three separate brands, maintaining autofocus functionality, all without ever selling your sigma glass.

I want to want to want to not want to want a new camera 😅 Yeah I suppose that statement sounds silly. But in my case it’s true. I don’t want to want a new camera haha

Yeah but I don’t even want to want a new camera. If you know what I mean. It’s annoying. But not having to deal with external recorders is appealing.

And this is really why I’d like the Xt3 over a Gh5. Though maybe I don’t need to upgrade…I could keep using my Ninja Star with my Z6 for clean 10 bit and a smaller more lightweight setup. But then I still don’t like the setup time. And the ninja star is micro hdmi. Ugh. I kind of hate wanting a new camera. It’s stressful and feels somewhat like wasted pleasure.

Woot

True, at the end of the day the story is what matters. But man you really get a sense of satisfaction when you make an image you are proud of.

IDK I feel it makes a difference. Maybe the viewer doesn’t look out for it, but I think the viewer might just say “it looks better” because they see the increased quality, but don’t know all the nuances to look for in what makes a *subjectively* pleasing image.

Yes, but still not perfect. But even more importantly, I don’t want to sacrifice dynamic range. Because when I am forced to shoot in situations where I don’t have control over lighting, say outdoors in the middle of the day shooting an event recap, having that dynamic range makes all the difference.

Of course for the GH5 I’d lose good autofocus, but even more than that, GH5 I find would be too much of an IQ downgrade. Don’t get me wrong, it’s great. But I’m used to the full-frame, high dynamic range, smooth highlight rolloff, beauty that is the Nikon Z6 + Atomos Ninja V. A Panasonic S5…that is tempting. Could maybe even make the autofocus work for my needs. But an XT3 used seems a bit more realistic budget wise, especially as I would be buying two lenses. Probably the viltrox 33mm 1.4, and the 13mm 1.4, giving me a 50mm and 20mm F2 full frame look. And I feel the XT3 FLOG dynamic range would hold its own against NLOG on the Z6. GH5 just has a bad highlight rolloff and is expect it to have noticeably less DR than my Z6/NinjaV combo. Since I only really need oversampled 1080p (I shoot this way frequently using my Z6 paired with an Atomos ninja star and a special HDMI output setting, I still get 10 bit NLOG) I could just say screw it, and buy a used C100 or C100 II, either way with the DPAF upgrade. But it isn’t exactly smaller or lighter than my Z6/Ninja combo now, is it ☹️

Mainly price. XT3 goes for peanuts these days. I think with a bit of post stabilization and a neck strap I could be ok without IBIS. Yes the current third party sigma and viltrox 1.4 primes are very tempting, bridges the gap between apsc and full frame. I’d be tempted to go the “Easy” route and sell my Z6 to Adorama or B&H. Though since I bought it used anyway, I could probably break even if I sold on eBay. Does it usually take time before someone buys a camera you sell on eBay?

Guess I’ve got to accept the facts. If I want the high DR look in even difficult evironments, I just have to shoot log. I’m actually considering selling my z6 and switching to a Fuji xt3, I think I could live without IBIS but having internal 10 bit log would be so nice for keeping things compact. I would use some of the fast sigma or viltrox 1.4 primes. How do you think the FLOG image would compare to my full frame NLOG image?

Yes, that does make a big difference. One question I do have though, is how close could I get things if I have to shoot in harsh lighting? On some events I have to shoot outside in the middle of the day without a cloud in the sky. Here, where I have no choice but to shoot where the subject is at, I find lot very much helps ease the harsh lighting.

I’ll play with color boost and the color warped. Now how should I go about artificially improving the highlight rolloff in post? I want to make the footage look like it’s been shot in log even though it hasn’t. Also, has anyone had experience with either EOSHD ZLOG or BeatLog II? Two custom “log” picture profiles for the Z6. People say they improve stuff. But I tried making the BeatLog II profile and ended up with very yucky skin tones. Shadows improve but highlights are no better. Wondering if it’s the same story for ZLOG. Not trying to bash on Andrew Reid or anything, just want to know if his profile exhibits this issue.

I’d love to see an example of one of the weddings you shot with this beastly combo. Particularly interested in the results you got with the flat profile. Is it manageable even in harsh sunlight? One thing I did notice is saturation increase behaves differently. With NLOG I can boost saturation and things look good across the board. With flat, to get background saturation at a similar level to NLOG when boosted, skin tones go a bit wild with over saturation. A simple layer node and skin qualification fix this, allowing me to adjust saturation of skin and everything else independently. I can then match the look of NLOG more closely. Another thing that is helping is using the “high soft” slider in resolve to add a bit of a highlight rolloff in post to the flat profile. Helps, because you notice a smooth highlight rolloff even when no highlights are clipped.

Good points! I suppose with practice I’ll get good results. Gotta be much more careful in camera lol!