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maxJ4380

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About maxJ4380

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  • My cameras and kit
    olympus em10ii and a few lense

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  1. Since the guy is already a billionaire, i doubt that right or fair is going to come into play. Especially when more millions / billions are at stake. There's no way he going to stand there and say, what would Jesus do ? It is kinda ironic through, the movie studio's have been tying up movie rights, soundtracks, copyright for decades and longer, now their crying foul.
  2. maxJ4380

    Lenses

    Anyone using an unconventional lens out there ? I have the 7artisan 4mm 2.8 mft lens. I quite like it, although its much too easy to get a finger / head / foot in the picture. Its also fiddly to focus even with peaking. It seems to me the plane of focus isn't actually accurately represented by the peaking. There's more testing to do yet and i need to get my brain accustomed to what the peaking is telling me and what the range on the lens is telling me and maybe the fstop / dof is contributing to the issue as well. Probably the nicest image so far but still away to go. I do have some thoughts on using it for video however i figure i need to get my brain working with images side of things first. I also have some thoughts on mounting everything to a monopod but thats another story. Probably when more parts arrive to build it up.
  3. You had a lot of nice things to say about the codecs and other stuff in the Panasonic GH5 Review and exclusive first look at Version 2.0 firmware - EOSHD.com - Filmmaking Gear and Camera Review Has anything changed ? because i'm almost sold on a gh5.
  4. That might work as a simple external monitor. The thing with live view as i understand it is it gives you a constant image which gives you the peaking, magnification and dragonframe takes that and adds onion skinning. Which is used for your shot setup. Feeding a hdmi image back into dragonframe will probably require a capture card as well, more expense and there's a paragraph on the site which says its all doable, but they don't recommend going down that path.
  5. yer i much prefer 80's music. although the delorean will need some extra storage space as i want to take a bit more than my toothbrush with me. 🙂
  6. Not sure what kind of look that guy is wearing, however its a hard (no thanks) from me. i refuse to watch anything with such dumb look to it. Maybe... i miss some interesting content but i can live with that.
  7. Everytime i come here, i learn something new. While the e-m5ii is supported on the dragonframe site. The e-m5iii is not, i thought it was because, it was newer perhaps, turns out olympus sort of down rated the e-m5 iii from "professional status" and quietly dropped the tethering and a couple of other things... There's a lot of things to like about the e-m5 iii but the fact its doesn't tether any more is a dealbreaker for me. I did find a site that suggested the olympus protocols has been reverse engineered, so you could have your cake and eat it too, however installing the libraries and getting it set up and running robustly with an e-m5iii is not a course i want to pursue. I'm of two minds at the moment, considering its 2024. I'd like a later model sensor. Buying an e-m5 ii is a step backwards with its 16mp and ordinary video. it does however tether, the e-m5 iii doesn't. So i am looking at an E-M1 Mark II, new in box been used as a shop display, very low shutter count and new warranty at a price i can afford. The e-m1 iii jumps up a little to steeply for me. Couple of people have mentioned om-log to be a bit iffy. Thats potentially a problem but since i haven't done much with video. Is it likely to be worse or horribly much worse than what's already on youtube ? I think i would be just another sheeple amongst the herd 🙄 i was liking the g9 for a while as well until mercer pointed out an issue with refresh rates and live view which would be a problem when integrated with dragon frame. I'm kinda liking the gh5 for the video side of things i can also find a gh5 at a price i like, the gh6 prices goes up pretty steeply. Unless more info comes to light in the next week or so i'll probably watch a few more vids and toss a coin.
  8. maxJ4380

    Beetlejuice

    I have not seen the fall guy yet and cant remember the lee majors series, i guess i must of watched some of it but nothing sunk in, it seems lol. Bladerunner 2 was pretty good and i did enjoy it as well. I guess in some ways sequels have alot of expectations to live up too and sadly its not always achieved imho. The cinema where i go has some sort of odd silvery / shiny screen, occasionally i can see the shininess of it behind the movie which ruins it momentarily (for me anyway) other than that i do like seeing movies on a big screen. Maybe its the nostalgia of a night out, as that doesn't happen much anymore or more likely the popcorn. I guess its a sign of progress the screen, whatever it is but it is annoying when i notice it and it take me out of the moment. Thers alot of threads on here about the cinema look in a digital world and how to best emulate it. If i'm honest most of it goes right over my head. As an example, reading back through the old threads there was the og blackmagic camera which was quite filmic if my understanding is correct. Then the p4k which seemed a bit ordinary in most peoples opinions, the 6k seems more popular and theres a new physis or something. No idea how that stands compared to the others yet or how filmic it is. But their all digital, they can look abit like film but they won't ever be film. I'll probably alienate someone on here for saying that... Not that i'm a fan boy but it was a pretty big thread. I love my digital camera, i can take a million photos and only keep one . They look great on my computer screen, i have never printed one, nor am i likely to. I could do the same with film but not cheaply. My point being film is film it's a totally different medium to digital, but i can understand why we want to emulate it. I think in some ways we are all a bit caught up on the "filmic / cinematic look". Most of us lived through that age, its understandably we want to go back there with "cheaper Equipment" or perhaps the "most life like equipment". Manufactures certainly have a vested interest in providing such a thing 🙂 As an outsider looking in and somewhat casual about it all, i cant help but wonder if we aren't chasing our tails at times for a cinematic look 🙃
  9. maxJ4380

    Beetlejuice

    Did you watch the sequel at the cinema or at home ? I haven't seen either of them and i'm unlikely to watch either of them as well. I'm a noob, no training either. Personally, i go to the movies to be entertained, if i start to question the story or the science behind it, the movie is failing to do its job and i don't enjoy it nearly as much. For those that work in the industry i can understand how one might take issue with the lighting or any number of other factors that are involved. Perhaps in my ignorance its easier (for me at least to suspend belief) if i was a professional i guess i'd be more inclined to have a stronger opinion. i did enjoy the latest axel f sequel at the movies. I'd call it nostalgic in some ways, i don't think it brought any new to the series. However i liked the fact that they brought back all the old cast, or most of them anyway. Most sequels have the original cast all dead or gone (probably for financial reasons) But it was good to see all the old gang together, more sequels should do that.
  10. i looked at the conversion some time ago for a gopro, however the 5x crop for the 35mm wasn't what i was after and i wasn't interested in starting a cs mount collection. The following is taken from the backbone sight What Lens Should I Buy? That’s probably the most common question we get asked and it depends on what you are looking to do with the camera. For reference the standard GoPro lens is 2.8mm, so 3-12mm are good for wide/medium shots. 16mm – 25mm are great for closeups with soft backgrounds and longer lenses are great for zoom and telephoto. Before getting into details, first let’s look at the different lens types that the Ribcage supports without the need for an adapter. M12 Also known as ‘S-Mount’ or ‘Board lenses’. They are lenses similar in size to the original GoPro lens. Typically these are best used for applications requiring small size and weight such as use with small drones and gimbals. This lens type typically has a fixed focus and fixed iris so they are meant to be set up once and locked in. CS-Mount These attach to the large mounting ring on the camera. CS-Mount was developed mostly for security applications so there are thousands of ultra sharp high megapixel lenses available at a relatively low cost. This lens type also commonly has ‘IR-Corrected’ or ‘Day&Night’ capability. That means they can focus on Infrared and visible light at the same time which a normal lens can’t. C-Mount C-Mount was originally developed in the 1920’s for film cameras and has been in use ever since. These can be attached to the camera by attaching the 5mm spacer ring. There are a vast array of C-Mounts available as they were commonly used on home movie cameras in the 50’s and 60’s, security and TV cameras and now for machine vision, factory automation and inspection applications that require the highest quality optics. You can buy vintage or new! While you can connect any M12, CS or C-Mount lens, 1/2.3″, 1/2” and 2/3” lenses are best. The value in inches simply tells you the size of the image sensor the lens was originally designed for. The GoPro uses a 1/2.3″ sensor. Ribcage has a crop factor of 5.6x for 35mm SLR lenses, so wide angle lenses are generally more useful. 1/2.3”, 1/2”, 1/1.8” and 2/3” M12, CS-Mount and C-Mount lenses are ideal. 1/2.5” lenses are ‘technically’ slightly too small for the sensor but in most cases give complete coverage and excellent results. 1/3” or 1/4” lenses are too small for the sensor to be used in wide mode, although they can still be used with the camera’s ‘medium’ and ‘narrow’ shooting modes. Auto iris lenses are not recommended as they require an external power supply in most cases. Focal lengths ranging from 4mm up to 25mm will prove to be most useful for general shooting. Focal lengths under 4mm will have a similar or more pronounced fish-eye effect than the stock GoPro lens unless they are labelled ‘rectilinear’ or ‘low distortion’. We’ve found it best to use lenses labelled ‘HR’ or ‘Megapixel’ for HD shooting. 3MP, 5MP and 10MP lenses should produce outstanding results. If you want to use the optional night vision feature of the Ribcage, IR corrected or D&N (day & night) lenses are recommended. These lens types allow IR and visible light to be in focus at the same time. Only lenses with manual features are supported. The GoPro is not capable of controlling fully automatic lenses. The built in M12 socket of the Ribcage will support M12 lenses with a maximum of 4.65mm back focus distance. At maximum distance the set screw may not engage. For M12 lenses requiring a longer back focal distance we offer an optional M12 to CS-Mount adapter which provides all the necessary distance required. Brands we have tested and find to be generally quite good are Computar, Kowa, Tokina, Fujinon, and Tamron. A selection of recommended lenses can be found in our shop. Visit http://www.digified.net/focallength/ for a magnification calculator. Choose the “Digital Compact with 1/2.3” Sensor” option. You can then punch in different focal lengths to see their 35mm equivalent. This is a great tool for deciding what focal length will best suit your needs. Below is a crop factor diagram showing the image circles projected by the most common lens types in relation to the GoPro image sensor. You may find it helpful to visualize the crop factor. Click to enlarge. Crop Factor Chart GoPro Shooting Modes This image shows the sensor area used by GoPro’s different shooting modes. Medium mode gives you 75% field of view and Narrow mode will give you 50% field of view relative to the full sensor. These modes can be quite handy if you are using a lens smaller than the recommended 1/2.3″. You can also get more magnification from a wide angle lens if you need to.
  11. Does the stig have his own channel ? Cause i would probably watch that... I used to watch top gear, not every episode. That show kinda demonstrates (to me anyway) somebody getting too big for their boots (not the stig obviously) however the stig brought a bit of mystery to the show which made it interesting. I dont know who the stig was maybe you guys do, its not really relevant anymore anyway. My vote goes to https://www.youtube.com/@MediaDivision if somebody hasn't already mentioned them. they do some amazing stuff.
  12. cmon, TikTok thats hitting below the belt isn't it 🤔
  13. i could only find one reference is this what your talking about ? https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/61375480 curious do you know if the gh5 suffers from the same affliction ?
  14. I'll be honest, i haven't explored every possible camera option. When i first looked at the canon. i'm pretty sure you had to buy and send it back for the update. For whatever reason i decided to pass on it at the time. Its nice you can get it preinstalled now. None of the (popular) youtubes i have watched mentioned refresh rates issues with the g9 (but thats hardly surprising is it ?) i'll have to go google that and get back to you. Barely any youtubes talk about any cameras ability to tether to a computer and why you may want to do so. Although if we have another covid outbreak (insert your pandemic of choice here) a niche market might suddenly open up. Hmm something to blog about perhaps ? no one else is doing it. A larger sensor would give a better image undoubtably, however i somewhat constrained myself by buying 2 new mft lenses recently, after i decided against going the full frame path. One is the sirui 24mm anamorphic and the other is the artisan 4mm f/2.8 for its interesting perspective. I also have a few dmx lights computer controlled, so getting a nice image isn't a problem on my small sets. Not sure anyone has done an anamorphic stop motion movie yet. Think j.j. abrams but with lego, it will be cinematic i swear 😁
  15. for your perusal i found some more info on the canons Canon offers a Stop Motion Animation Firmware addon for EOS R, EOS RP, R5, R8, R100, and EOS R6 Mark II cameras. You must purchase a camera with the special firmware, or send your camera in to get it updated. It is a paid offering. (The models that are available may vary by region.) Here is an overview of the features it provides, and the support in each version of Dragonframe: FeatureDragonframe 4Dragonframe 5 or newer Supported CamerasR/RPR/RP/R8/R100/R6 Mark II HD Live View (1920 x 1280)YESYES Focus PeakingYESYES Aperture Lock---YES Focus Programming---YES HD Live View: The live view (video assist) is doubled from 960×640 to 1920×1280. Focus Peaking: The camera shows which parts of the image are in focus with bright colored pixels. You must use an RF lens and set it to ‘MF’. Aperture Lock: The camera keeps the lens closed during video assist and while capturing photos. This prevents potential flicker from the aperture opening and closing repeatedly. Requires an RF lens and Dragonframe 5 or newer. The feature is always on in Dragonframe 5. You can verify by choosing a fairly closed aperture, like f/22, and looking into the lens. Verify that it is closed during live view. Then verify that when you take a picture it does not open and close. Focus Programming: This also requires an RF lens and Dragonframe 5 or newer. Dragonframe can program the focus if you create an axis in ARC and set the Connection to ‘Digital Focus’. This feature does not work on a shot that also zooms. Changing the zoom affects the focus range.
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