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I'm really considering making a big upgrade to the URSA, but I've already invested in a fleet of Canon FDs. I've been doing some research on FD to PL mounts without a lot of luck. I know ARRI make an FD adapter to the ARRI mount (PL??) but besides that seems there's zilch out there. Some talk about machining the lenses to fit the new flange but I was hoping someone here knows of something...

Hey Guys! I wanted to show you a short film I shot on the Sony A6000. A great video camera on a budget in my opinion It is my first short film, and it was all shot and edited in one day, I didnt have more time. Lenses I used were the Tamron 17-50mm 2.8, Helios 44-2 and a cctv 35mm 1.7 Hope you Guys enjoy it ! Please let me know what you think about it I shot it for the Sony professional competition, so if you enjoy it, please like it on youtube. thanks !! Cheers from Germany Micha

I do a lot of sports and surf videos and this is a recent one I did in the westcoast of Auckland. GH4 really help you in this fast paced run and gun situation where you need to change things fast and adapt to the environment. The small sensor size is actually a positive factor in sports as well because of the crop factor and deeper focus plane. Landscape shots were shot in 4K then scaled. Vintage Contax, Pentax lenses were used.

Trying to understand / fix the LA7200 to make it clearer, less CA, sharper and more usable. Building a lens from other lenses to attempt to do this. In any case, im trying to understand what is causing the issues in general using the LA7200 on DSLR or Blackmagic cinema camera. Is it because of the sensor cropping then? The LA7200 was designed for a 4:3 sensor crop therefore it will not work correctly on the BMCC, or larger sensors? Or is it simply a design flaw overall of the LA7200 , poor lens design / poor coating If it is a crop sensor issue, what is happening on the LA7200 to cause issues because the sensors are larger crop. Is the back lens element simply too small, where the image is being projected against the taking lens too small therefore when desqueezed you see parts of the image you really should not? i.e. the taking lens and the sensor is capturing too much of the la7200? By adding a diopter behind it does that then, make it larger i.e. projects less of what is seen from the front of the la7200 to the sensor? Or is it more complex than this. I have tried using a diopter behind the LA7200 i think its a Tokina 0.5 Not sure. I mean it says No 0.05 so I dont know at this point. In any case it does not seem to help. Just trying to understand, thanks anyone that can help.

We all know the cheap ones. Simple mount with a really bad optic. Is there no way at all to make or create an adapter for less than the canon telephoto original adapter at around $699 I just can't believe this is so. I mean a simple telephoto adapter with a secondary achromatic element behind it ought to work to clean up and telephoto the image enough for an FD to EF adapter. Is it just that difficult to get decent glass for a good price? Overview I am attempting to create and research an FD to EF adapter that does not have horribly unusable chromatic aberration. Testing including test shots at different apertures and comparison in lightroom. I will be publishing my findings here and possibly flickr. If you are interested message me, I would love to build a team willing to research and experiment with the project. Otherwise follow along, feel free to try it yourself and post your findings or send them to me directly if you like. Im not looking to profit here. Feel free to learn from what i'm doing here and do so yourself, id just appreciate credit. While mass manufacture is an option, I currently dont have the infrastructure to support it within my company. Id rather focus more on taking pictures and video than manufacture profit although if the opportunity presents itself I may jump at it. 5d Mark II - Testing camera Canon 50mm f1.8 FD - Testing lens 3d printer for light manufacturing. preliminary dioptric research done measurements of cheap fd adapter recorded Update - 09-15 Nominal Success in adapting rear lensing element from Canon 28-80mm f2.8 wide angle telephoto lens Effective focus distance 2-3 feet depending on fstop (f2.8-f22 examples below) Spurned by this success I am looking for lenses, broken, as is, no longer working etc. 35mm 50mm 85mm 135mm Canon preferably, I mean lets keep it in the family if possible. *note - results gained so far are with the Canon 28-80mm. Going to start work with fixed lenses and if needed ill use telescopic. General Progress Completed Successs! It works, this should be possible for less than the old Canon FD to EF adapter There should be no reason this cant be done cheaply either for other lenses or simply just the FD lenses without significant chromatic aberration Initial test pictures and examination in lightroom (I felt that CaptureOne was a bit cheating since their sharpening algorithms are so good) To Do --Find a rear lensing optic that fits Acquire Lenses - Minimal Chromatic Aberration - Minimal vignetting --Test for minimal chromatic aberration and quality Acquire test target --Test lenses (acquire) Fixed FD lenses Telephoto FD Lenses Wide Angle FD lenses (under 35mm) Comparison Pictures Shot with Canon 5d Mark II FD to EF Adapter - Cheap 28-80mm Canon f2.8 rear lensing element dioptric/telescopic value unknown, working on researching how to figure this out A usable F2.8 F8 F22 F22 - Example for detail comparison around edges Ill try to keep this updated as I go if theres enough interest, otherwise I may shift focus to a different forum. Also Graded f2.8 image -

Hi all, I'm moving from the BMCC MFT to the Sony A7s. The BMCC all rigged up is just too much for me as a one man band, too heavy and too many pieces to put together and keep track on. The pay off (the image) is worth it, but I feel it's limiting me creatively in a bad way. I also want to get back into still photography (Never had full frame before, this should be interesting). That's also why I'm getting rid of my Nikon AI(s) primes. I want zooms. Not because they're better, but more convenient, I got more of a "on the go in available light" kind of style. Nikon mount is great with adapters thanks to a click-less aperture control, but it would be nice to have autofocus as well (apparently that's a no go with Nikon according to my googling and forum reading skills), but everything Canon leaves a bad taste in my mouth (well.. not really, I'm just as skeptical as any other DSLR shooter who started out on Canon and saw them staying behind on purpose). I haven't found a good affordable alternative to Metabones yet. Likewise with native Sony FE mount. Full frame also use all of the glass, so I'm being more careful about the quality in the edges this time, nothing I had to worry about before, really. For 1080 video I guess it's alright, not really noticeable, but when taking stills and maybe later 4K video... What is acceptable? Not asking for perfection, I got more of a "on the go in available light" kind of style. I really like to film/photograph people in their surroundings. Sláinte!

Just in case anyone is interested I currently have listed my Optex Anamorphic adapter on Ebay. Ending in 2 days on Wednesday at 8pm. Starting price is a very modest £350 so could be a bargain. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=121340539458

Is there any loss in quality using a ZF lens on a Canon body via an adapter? Would having a mount professionally switched using a company like Duclos in the U.S or TLS in the UK, be any better? Alex

Ive been experimenting for a while with the Panasonic LA7200. I just cant seem to cut down on the edge blurring with it. I shot this with a Canon 5d Mark III with 85mm L1.2 and the edge blurring is still very evident. I had hoped the telephoto of the 85mm would help but it did not seem to. http://adobe.ly/1fKUVlU ISO320 85mm F8 1/400 sec However I've seen videos of people using the La7200 with Canon EOS 5d Mark II full frame with none of the edge blurring. Really been trying to figure this out, does anyone have any suggestions? '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> Maybe its just not noticeable here.

Today just arrived Tushinsky variable ration anamorphic projection lens. Some tests I made today didn't prove much useful (shot with GF3 with ETC), will post some more in next days. I haven't found any videos made through this adapter on the net. Anybody's got some experience with this beast? [url=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/9djw.jpg/][/URL] [url=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/823/f8aw.jpg/][/URL]

There is a Pentax SMC Takumar 50mm f1.4 i have my eyes on for my Panny GH2. it has a has a 42mm Screw fr micro 4/3. I wanted to know whether this lens will fit any of these adapters with no issues?   http://www.ebay.in/itm/281067558863?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649     http://cgi.ebay.in/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=271159243669&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:IN:1123#ht_2128wt_1139     i have heard that these adapters with a a "rim" inside do not work with the SMC Tak and the ones without it work well. Does these adapter have a rim inside? If not i dont want to end up wasting money buying this lens and this adapter as i dont have any M 4/2 lenses. Thanks

Hi, An excavation into the attic unearthed an old TOSHIBA COLOR VIDEO CAMERA ik-1900 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Owners-Manual-Toshiba-IK-1900-Color-Video-Camera-/230389930914) It has a Nikon TV-nikkor zoom macro 12.5-100mm 1:1.6 lens which i have unscrewed out of the camera and wish to use it on my Panny GH2 but have no clue what mount to use to do the same. I tried asking all the DP's and techies i know but they have no clue on the lens. Even google hasnt been able to help at all. Can someone who knows their lenses well share any info on this and recommend me a mount for this lens for my GH2? Links to the right mount or names will be much appreciated.  

Maybe this is normal.   I have an 1.33x anamorphic lens adapter (widescreen center). Its not very sharp at all but especially on far distances its nearly impossible to focus.   Close objects (1-2m) are in focus, everything over 2m is nearly impossible to focus.   Maybe it has something to do with the lens build? It has a front and a rear glass, i im able to remove these glasses. Also, i can "turn" them around. Only, when both glasses are in an exact same position, the image gets sharp. I tryed to find the exact right position by hand buts thats very difficult...     So or so, nothing helps with the "far distance" focus, i just dont get a focussed image. Will post some pictures here later - or is this normal with anamorphic adapters?   I think this is my lens: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bxircl2ROioAX2ZxenZzMUFOcXM  

Or so it would seem. I just ordered a set of these for my Iscos: [url="http://www.xumeadapters.com/"]http://www.xumeadapters.com/[/url]   It should make swapping and combining diopters a snap.   I will let you know my thoughts when I receive them.

I'm on the hunt for an Iscorama 36 or 42. I have an original model Iscorama (serial number) and an Iscorama 54 to trade with if that is helpful (I'll obviously offer a good chunk of change along with either of those in exchange). I'm on a deadline to source these for an upcoming production, so I'm willing to pay a premium. Anyone interested please PM me.