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Showing results for tags 'Helios'.
Found 13 results
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Hello! I would like to share my work done with GH5 + FM Lens (Kowa inside) and russian taking lenses. Musicvideo is still under work but here is promo clip for upcoming video. Will post it here soon when it's complete.
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Hey Guys! I wanted to show you a short film I shot on the Sony A6000. A great video camera on a budget in my opinion It is my first short film, and it was all shot and edited in one day, I didnt have more time. Lenses I used were the Tamron 17-50mm 2.8, Helios 44-2 and a cctv 35mm 1.7 Hope you Guys enjoy it ! Please let me know what you think about it I shot it for the Sony professional competition, so if you enjoy it, please like it on youtube. thanks !! Cheers from Germany Micha
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Testing out lenses with the Iscorama 36 wide open. I really want that separation from the background. It's easy now with the Metabones Speedbooster EF. There is something to be said about full frame lenses used with the Speedbooster vs micro 4/3rds native lenses. Also the Iscorama is the sharpest of the anamorphic adapters, although there are still some lenses that don't do well wide open. Shot on a GH4 4K (before v2.0 firmware, 16:9). Iscorama minimum distance is around 6 feet, half that with the Tokina +0.4 diopter.
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selling my gold ultra star close focus at 5 feet, comes with a helios 44-2, +1,+2,+4 diopter set, nd filter, step up rings, vid atlantic clamp. going for $350 or best offer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/anamorphic-lens-bundle-/261587403668? -
First try shooting FMX, not very easy ... Happy by the way, a nice afternoon in my big friend Julien's backyard. Goog vibes and atomic riding from a passionate guy. Go on dude, you're on the right way ;-) Shot & Edit: Julien Miscischia Camera: Panasonic GH3 Codec: MOV 50mbps IPB 1080@50 PAL Lenses: Olympus 45mm 1.8, Panasonic 14-42mm OIS kit lens, Canon FD 35-105mm 3.5, Helios 135mm 2.8 with Fader ND Profile: Natrual -5,-5, 0, -5 Edit and grade: Premiere Pro CS6, After Effect CS6, FilmConvert Music: Sleepless (Fakear remix) soundcloud.com/fakear/sleepless-fakear-remix soundcloud.com/fakear Comments are welcome
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Been shooting for about a year now, bought a Sony RX100 when my son was born and the bug bit, both for stills and video. Bought a Sony NEX 5n next to access vintage glass which looked like fun. Have since developed a serious case of LBA, and this particular little video was shot on a Sony NEX 5n with a Helios 44-M 58mm lens. Very much still learning the ropes though:)
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Hello everyone, We are planning to shoot a very low budget feature film this summer and I have some questions on the camera set we will use and I hope you can help me on some of the following: 1. The 16:9 sensor on the GH2 + a 2x anamorphic adapter produces a final stretched anamorphic aspect of 3.55. Which would result in (1920x1080)*(2)= 3840x1080. Instead of doing the decompression from 2x, I want to interpret the shot as if pixels would be 1.333 or 1.4587. I know it keeps the image still a little deform but I think I like the look. Whats your technical and/or creative take on it? (SEE IMAGES BELOW) 2. We would project it on standard 2k (2048×1080) DCP cinemas and the final cut would fit into it with a 2048x858 (2.39:1) size movie. Am I right? or does it work in another way? 3. I am currently using Sedna AQ1 for max detail against anamorphic softening against big screen projection. Do you think it will hold enough? Would you sharpen in post? Whats you recommend any other hack? Given this 3 points which would be your opinion on this process? Have any of you seen any gh2 anamorphic content projected in 2k dcp? How does it stand? Thanks for your help! P.D. Anyone selling a Kowa 16-h (8z) In order not to be so limited with the 16D in lens minimum mm´s? -
Made my own music video to showcase one of my songs. It's electronic music aka melodic dubstep. Anyhow... made this with my GH2 and GH3. All details in the description. If you like the music better alone its available online on the major streaming sites. Enjoy.
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Finally finished my short film project "Separate Flow". Waiting for the right anamorphic and I think the SLR Magic Anamorphot was it. Very practical to use on location, it worked really well for this project. Debated long and hard on using either the GH3 or 5DmkIII RAW. In the end I went with shooting RAW even though I had a lot of problems, including the camera shutting down at one point. But it's the flexibility of RAW in post that won out in the end. In the future I will use AF with the GH3/4 since it's more usable, especially when using a steadicam.
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I have been thinking about a rehousing project for a while now. What I want to do is rehouse the taking lens and the anamorphic adapter in one lens body. Originally I though about converting to a single focus system , calculating focus distances for each lens and adjusting the two helicals or grooves so that the Helios and the SUN would move together with the turn of a single focus ring. Now the calculation and the actual creation of at least one nonlinear helicoid would not be an easy task so for now I am designing a lens body for dual focus. There should be two lens groups that move separately: Front group is the front lens group from the SUN Back group is the back lens group from the SUN and both lens groups from the Helios This way when I turn the rear focus ring not only the taking lens focuses, but also the distance of the two SUN glass parts changes (the anamorphic part focuses in the right direction, but not exactly the right amount). The front focus ring would only need minor adjustment. Goals: Two lenses in one body Easier focusing Reversing the focus ring turn direction on the SUN glass part Reduced minimum focusing distance Tough, durable body (probably an inner shell from one piece of aluminium) Very small amount of parts (harder to machine so we'll see) No alignment issues Canon EF mount Built-in tripod mount (proper balance on a tripod) non-rotating 58mm filter thread (the current mod has a rotating thread) I will post some drawing to clarify what I wrote above.
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Hey guys, This might have come up before, but I seem to be having a strange phenomenon while using any thrid party taking lens with my Iscorama pre 36. The stock nikkon 2.8 fixed lens that came with the Isco doesn't display these "icicle" like artifacts from flaring. This happens with my Nikkon 50mm f1.4, and my Helios 58mm 44-2m, and also some weird transparent vignetting happens with the iris blades on both. I was wondering if anyone knows why this is happening, and or have a possible solution for it. The picture below is with my Nikkon 50mm f1.4, very simular to the results of the helios.
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Hey guys! Trying to build a small stable of lenses for personal use (I plan to rent lenses as needed, but need backups just in case that falls through) and I'm a little enamored with the pricepoints/qualities of some of the old manual Russian lenses (typically m42 mounts), especially considering their costs. I have acquired the following: Helios 44M Jupiter 9 (on the way) Granit-11 zoom - heavy, bulky, and it kinda sucks.. but I could have a bad copy.. focus ring feels like there's a bad bearing or something. I think I could kill someone with it, though, so I keep it by the door. I've been looking for some test footage on the GH2 using the Zenitar 16mm and the Mir 20mm in either the 2.5 and 3.5 versions, as I'm trying to find a decent wide. For rentals,. I was planning on using SLR magic 12.5 and 17mm, or maybe the Nokton 17mm and going with the 25mm in either for "normal" shots. Also, any thoughts on Jupiter 11/11a/37a vs Tair 11a would be welcome, and even the Mir 1 b/v versions. Thanks in advance! (I use a Kiron 28mm F2 lens as my go to right now, and it's fine, just want to build up my kit a little).
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A short test run with the Panasonic GH3 and my new favorite lens. http://vimeo.com/56649545
