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Showing results for tags 'Test'.
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It's the eleventh hour for the GH2, but it will still be a few months before I have its replacement in my hands so I am still trying to get the best possible performance out of it. And I'd still like to hang onto it as a B-cam, but not until I work some issues out. I did a full-range ISO test of my GH2 with the Flowmotion 2.02 settings, starting at 12800 and working my way down to 160. I did this after reading a little more about the GH2 ISO bug. Initially, I had read that if you wanted to use ISOs 320, 640 or 1250, you had to switch the camera on and first go to [i]any[/i] higher ISO, and then back to one of these three to minimize noise. Then I did some more reading on Personal-View and apparently what you want to do is go to the next ISO increment up, and then back down to the desired setting (so if you want ISO 320, go to ISO 400, then back to 320; if you want 640, go to 800, then back to 640). This seemed to result in a MUCH cleaner image than my initial tests with the first image. The footage is pretty usable up to ISO 1250, at least with the Flowmotion hack. What really surprised me was this: [img]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/gallery/album_13/gallery_18451_13_3510.jpg[/img] ISO 160 Flowmotion 2.02 Noise enhanced for visibility 500% crop [img]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/gallery/album_13/gallery_18451_13_74801.jpg[/img] ISO 320 Flowmotion 2.02 Noise enhanced for visibility 500% crop This tells me that working around the ISO bug as I have talked about above, ISO 320 is actually much [i]cleaner[/i] than 160. In fact, it's the cleanest ISO (at least with this hack on my camera). Thoughts? -
I did a rough test between three cameras: the Nikon D750, Lumix GH2, and Black Magic Pocket Camera. I wanted to see how their videos compared in general. I'm swamped in work, so I couldn't make this as good as I wanted. I literally shot it on lunch break from a day job at an PR firm. However, I think the results are clear and I wanted to share the video and a link to my blog with you guys in hopes that others can learn or give me some good feedback on questions I raise. I'm rusty on the whole shooting thing because I've devoted the last 3 years to teaching and commercial work/writing. It's good to get back into it, and necessary because I have a script I want to shoot next month. http://www.production1studio.com/2016/02/23/3-camera-test/ I know some won't be interested in the blog link above, like I'm plugging myself, but there is a lot of insight into the footage, what I was trying to do, and a big piece on lenses and the way they work (like feel) on different cameras.
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Hey fellas! Recently ditched my 5D3 for A7s. Mostly because of low light stuff but also for better slomo capabilities. Yesterday I tried 120p for the first time but I totally forgot about the flicker and WB was on auto so it doesn't went too well. Any tips on shooting extreme slomo indoors?
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Panasonic GH2 hacked Moon Trial 5 hack, shot in 1080p HBR mode 25 fps (~ 60Mbps) Standard profile -2-2-2-2 Panasonic 14-42mm kitlens, OIS on. Looks like there are some dropped frames in the GH2 footage, did use a Sandisk 95MB/s card though... Panasonic G6 AVCHD 1080p 25 fps (24Mbps) Standard profile -5-5-5-5 Panasonic 14-42mm kitlens, OIS on. Everything shot with the same fixed white balance at 1/50s, various apertures but same on both camera's at all times. My first impressions: The G6 looks better to me. Better shadow detail and a bit more detail in the highlights. Probably due to flatter picture. The G6 shares the picture styles with the GH3, so no smooth like on the GH2. Kept both camera's on standard to keep it as close as possible. Everything dialed down maximum. Less noise at high iso's, less banding. Couldn't detect any moire. Looks a tad less sharp than (hacked) GH2, but that could be up to the sharpening at -5. With some sharpening probably same detail level. Rolling shutter looks the same to me. Although the G6 is a bit smaller I actually prefer the grip to the GH2. It holds very nicely. The lcd is much much better. The color cast on the GH2 screen is horrible. The G6 looks pretty natural and true to the output. Funny thing: the viewfinder looks quite smaller to me.
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A few shots from Abu Dhabi. I really like the way this camera handles nighttime and sunset shots, but I'm having trouble getting satisfying colors in daylight. Would appreciate any feedback: Graded in FCP X with native CC tool, Pixel Studios ProHDR, and Impulz LUTs
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I just did a test, and I really like the colors I get when turning Picture Profile off and just shooting in Sunset Creative Style. It worked on my old NEX-5n to produce smoother gradients, and it looks like it gives good rich colors on the A7s as well. I think you do lose dynamic range in the highlights, but for medium and low-contrast scenes, I think it's a good way to get punchy yet natural colors. Anyone else tried this? Any thoughts?
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Noktor asked me to test out their new SLR Magic Hyperprime 10mm T2.1 for MFT. Thought some people might interested to see footage, as lately most MFT tests are done on the GH4. Here's the video: It's a pretty good wide angle option for the non-Speedbooster folk. Thanks for watching!
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5dmkIII raw (converted to LOG-C and then rec709): Sony a7s (cine 4 - color, saturation and contrast dialed down -1, then gamma lowered and shadows raised a bit in FCP X): My thoughts are that the a7s can give you some nice skin tones and balanced color if you don't try to do S-LOG 2. I consider midday sun to be a challenging environment for 8-bit cameras, as the color can easily become washed out and desaturated. I find that I need as much saturation from the camera as possible (without clipping) before processing. Then I lower the gamma a bit in post and lift the shadows in order to give it more of a filmic shadow response. What you can't do with the a7s in my experience is extreme shadow recovery like this backlit shot:
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Just a quick video testing out a Sigma 35-70mm f2.8-4 canon FD mount I found at a local camera shop for $20. It seems to work better as a taking lens than my canon FD f1.4 for some reason, not sure why. It does have a flat front element. From what I have read online most people weren't very happy with sigma zoom lenses in the FD mount, as far as the overall quality. it was all shot wide open around 39/41mm except for the 3rd shot which was at 70mm. I had heard you could use a 35mm + anamorphic on the gh4 without any vignetting but it is pretty severe when I try. -
Comparing the complete set of Rokinon cine-style lenses at 4K -
Testing the sharpness of the Rokinon Cine 85mm with Lens Turbo on the Pansonic GH4
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Hi, Let's start this topic with a new high ISO test done by Artbenny.
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Hi there - here's a link to download this test: http://vimeo.com/jaemorrison/iscorama54test01 I was interested in seeing what Apertures were sharp with different Achromats & Diopters. Rather than waste even more time cutting a boring video, I've just uploaded a boring image sequence for you to download and step through frame-by-frame. The Achromats and Diopters tested were: Redstan +.25 Achromat Tokina +.4 Achromat Voightlander Focar A Voightlander Focar B And some stacked combinations of the above. Apologies if the test isn't ideal (h264 certainly isn't) - thought it was worth sharing as I've learnt a lot from people posting stuff here. Cheers, Jae.
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Ok to start us off, let me show you a comparison I made between the Olympus PEN E-P5 and the Panasonic GX7 I was wondering if anyone has anything similar for the OMD EM1. I'm really considering getting one in the future because of IBIS, but the EP5's video quality was such a huge letdown (it looked like old camcorder footage) that Im skeptical about if the EM1 can be that much better. -
Just got a loaner of this camera for testing purposes. Took it out around Chinatown for some street shooting. Camera is very sharp, very convenient in good light. 24-200mm f/2.8 is a dream and produces nice-looking bokeh. Haven't tested it in poor light yet. Haven't tried 60p either.
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My first slow motion for Nikon Italy with new Nikon D5300:
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This is a remake of the opening scene of BLITZ. (a movie of Jason Statham) In the near future we will make more remakes and other stuff like this, to test out how cameras react in different illumination, how much noise it produces and how much we can push it without adding light in the scene. http://youtu.be/yroJP9uT5DE so if you liked this please "LIKE" and "SHARE' (the movie was shot in 1 night and edited afterwards in 3-4 hours / Location: Belgium) Shot with the: SONY AX-2000
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Hello guys, introducing myself with a short shot of the BMC Pocket, just using the 14.140mm Lumix zoom (hard used and few scratched) and a polarizer filter. Ungraded/Graded shots. Resut was pretty pleasant, despite of few few time to make it. Questions and comments wellcomed, I am not DOP but director/writer, but well, always learning (camera and better english :-) https://vimeo.com/76969600 Cheers, JF Calero.
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Just a test with one of my anamorphic lens (a beautiful Bolex Moller Anamorphot 16/32/1.5x). Andrew opened my mind reading his useful blog and shooter's guide, and now I love the anamorphics. I am learning, so I hope you understand my limitations in all the areas, included the video edition. [attachment=477:435717753_295.jpg] Shot on Canon 5D Mark II, the taken lens is a Zeiss C/Y 100mm Makro-Planar f2.8 http://vimeo.com/64893832
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Hello everyone. Currently i developing a little DIY project and have an idea to implement Sony E-Mount to be able attach various adaptors for lens testing. E-Mount has short flange distance, its diameter big enough to fit any lens and there are tons of inexpensive lens adaptors on ebay. But as so as it don't use clamping nut as pl-mount, IMS or b4-mount, i'm not sure how durable, rugged and precise this mount appears to be. I would like to to hear your personal opinion regarding usage of this mount in real life... Thanks!
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Random goofing around... https://vimeo.com/60911351 -
Since I have all three at the moment, I decided to make a test for my fellow anamorphic enthusiasts: http://vimeo.com/60401188 Not exactly scientific, but I tried to be methodical. The Iscorama is sharp wide open, but my Iscomorphot 2x has to be closed down to f/2.8 or smaller, and the Iscomorphot 1.5x really isn't too useful before f/5.6. They each have their own unique character. Which image do you prefer?
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This problem is rather hard to describe. Just trying to figure out if I have a defective unit, or if this is common to all NEX-5n's. Here's a video sample. Read my comments to know what to look for. Please let me know if you've had the same issues. https://vimeo.com/59504237
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I've uploaded some test footage from the new Panasonic GH3. The first portion of the video contains fairly even lighting with tests from f2.8/ISO 200 - f16/ISO 6400. The second portion introduces a hot spot via a desk lamp. Test are from f4.0/ISO 200 - f22/ISO 6400. Gradation looks very good in the bright areas of the footage. Blacks are fairly consistent throughout. ISO 200 - 800 appears damn fine, as far as noise is concerned. ISO 1600 fairly good and easily workable. ISO 3200 is usable. 6400 is useless. https://vimeo.com/58314941
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Here is my test I did today. There are a few notes to be aware of: 1) There is moire evident when set at 0 (roof of the pavilion). At -5 there is none, although the compression of youtube introduces moire. 2) Excessive sharpening in post is akin to sharpening in-camera by re-introducing moire. Not only that but it also exacerbates banding as well. The last shot of the sunset, you can see a sort of "pulsing" wave above the sun. This is not present in either the 0 or -5 setting, although you can see some banding in the 0 setting. 3) There is a lot of noise at -5, but there's more detail too. Proper noise reduction will help. 4) Contrast isn't easy to fix. I made a bunch of other shots, however I wasn't able to match them. Never forget we're dealing with an 8 bit codec. You can grade the footage, but only so far. And trying to fix things in post could result in worse problems. The banding was especially surprising, and it looks worse in the ProRes version. I think it best to find the right compromise for the type of shooting you do. And you have to get your exposure and contrast as close to final version as possible. The GH3 is better than the GH2, and you have some room to adjust, but it still isn't a whole lot. http://youtu.be/qxxFe_y-2y4
