Test shoot with my homemade LED lights

[Jonesy Jones]

Hey sir, I forgot to ask. The $150 price tag is for one of those?

it's for the fixture in the photos above, including the bulbs. Each fixture + bulbs costs roughly $150 to build. 

Edit: and btw, I had seen the video you posted. One of my first prototypes was a light of that style, though mine was made out of aluminum not wood. For me those lights require too much tedious work, soldering and what not. For that style of light I think paying for the aputure lights are probably the way to go.  They seem way more powerful and better quality lighting than what you'd end up with if you built them yourself. In my case, I don't know that anyone is making 4ft lights, which creates a very nice soft large light source. 

[Triumph61]

You can buy a fairly powerful 600 Led panel in Australia for under $300 which is about $230 US, it will take batteries and hence offers portability.  CRI 95 plus, Lighting, if you buy certain brands can be expensive but it doesn't have to be.   That said, as a still photographer, I wish people took lighting as seriously as their Camera gear.  We drop $4k on a Lens or a Body, and lighting should be just as important.    Some battery operated LED solutions can be used in bright sunlight to help remove shadows for example.

[andrgl]

So, 1 one of these: http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Lighting-Fluroescent-Barndoor-AGG976/dp/B00C7XVFIY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

and 2 of these: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/258267-REG/Kino_Flo_55C_K55_True_Match_Compact_Lamp.html

= Smallish portable Kino for around $100?

Bingo. Pretty sweet huh?

[Chris Oh]

it's for the fixture in the photos above, including the bulbs. Each fixture + bulbs costs roughly $150 to build. 

Edit: and btw, I had seen the video you posted. One of my first prototypes was a light of that style, though mine was made out of aluminum not wood. For me those lights require too much tedious work, soldering and what not. For that style of light I think paying for the aputure lights are probably the way to go.  They seem way more powerful and better quality lighting than what you'd end up with if you built them yourself. In my case, I don't know that anyone is making 4ft lights, which creates a very nice soft large light source. 

Yeah, It was really involved. I would really have to evaluate cost/benefits/time factor.

You can buy a fairly powerful 600 Led panel in Australia for under $300 which is about $230 US, it will take batteries and hence offers portability.  CRI 95 plus, Lighting, if you buy certain brands can be expensive but it doesn't have to be.   That said, as a still photographer, I wish people took lighting as seriously as their Camera gear.  We drop $4k on a Lens or a Body, and lighting should be just as important.    Some battery operated LED solutions can be used in bright sunlight to help remove shadows for example.

link or brank pretty please?

Bingo. Pretty sweet huh?

Yes! Thank you for the ideas! I am open to trying this! I can't afford much at this point and I want to try both @‌jonesy jones' and your method.

 

[andrgl]

Yes! Thank you for the ideas! I am open to trying this! I can't afford much at this point and I want to try both @‌jonesy jones' and your method.

You can go even cheaper by using standard light fixtures. They sell T8/T12 bulbs (lots of light for cheap) and CFLs. So if you go with a homebrew solution, then you can still use Kino bulbs.

Here's the entire range: http://www.kinoflo.com/Products Button/Lamps/True_Match/True_Match.html

[Jonesy Jones]

You can go even cheaper by using standard light fixtures. They sell T8/T12 bulbs (lots of light for cheap) and CFLs. So if you go with a homebrew solution, then you can still use Kino bulbs.

Here's the entire range: http://www.kinoflo.com/Products Button/Lamps/True_Match/True_Match.html

The problem with this is that the lights will look like crap and will be frail. If that's not important then go for it. 

[Kristoferman]

The problem with this is that the lights will look like crap and will be frail. If that's not important then go for it. 

id be careful buying super cheap fixtures. I've heard stories of terrible, illegal (US) internal wiring with the cheap stuff. 

[Chris Oh]

The problem with this is that the lights will look like crap and will be frail. If that's not important then go for it.

Could you do a more detailed DIY with parts used pretty please?
is the ballast something like this?:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-120-Volt-Electronic-Ballast-for-4-ft-2-Lamp-T8-Fixture-GE232-120RESDIYB/205400553

[Jonesy Jones]

Could you do a more detailed DIY with parts used pretty please?is the ballast something like this?:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-120-Volt-Electronic-Ballast-for-4-ft-2-Lamp-T8-Fixture-GE232-120RESDIYB/205400553

Yes. Soon.

[andrgl]

id be careful buying super cheap fixtures. I've heard stories of terrible, illegal (US) internal wiring with the cheap stuff. 

Sorry, but there are very little internal components in fluorescent fixtures:

• terminals
• wires
• a ballast (when not using CFLs)

The only issue would be a bad ballast (which can be replaced for ~$10) or bad wire insulation (which would be very quick to find out because it'll dead short and/or electrocute you).

 

You're probably confusing LED panels or power adapters, which run off VDC and have many electronic components. (Usually the problem here is the rectifier/power supply being poorly insulated and the components being crammed way too close together and to the main board.)

[richg101]

I've been doing some digging and think I may have found a very good solution for cheap point source lighting (for a nice single shadow).

 

https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=LED+AR111+19w&tbm=shop

runs direct from 12volt dc, integrated heatsink so no fans needed, and just as important -optics designed for the emitter. 19w of power - about the same as a 100w halogen, cri of 90.

A set of 3 would make a lovely miniature redhead setup since we now have cameras that are happy running at 3200iso with little noise.

 

 

[Jonesy Jones]

Could you do a more detailed DIY with parts used pretty please?is the ballast something like this?:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-120-Volt-Electronic-Ballast-for-4-ft-2-Lamp-T8-Fixture-GE232-120RESDIYB/205400553

Here goes. And also going to add this to the original post.

What I am most proud of is the design of the fixture itself. The bulbs can be replaced as LED tech improves and becomes less expensive. I like the bulbs I have, but if in a year or so inexpensive higher CRI bulbs become available I will replace mine if they are indeed an improvement. The bulbs I used are no longer available online (though the maker will still sell them to me at a massive discount). But I believe any ballast compatible LED bulbs will do. 

1. I used a steel stud track cut 48" as the main chassis. All the parts are attached to this. A steel stud (cut to roughly 46") fits perfectly into the track to close off the fixture and keep all the unsightly innards out of view. 
2. I used a 6" Impact Baby Pin. I don't like the Avenger ones. I line the baby pin centered in the fixture, mark and drill the holes. 
3. The ballast I used was this one. But there are bunches that are same basic price and size. This ballast fits nicely centered in between the bolts from the baby pin. Mark and drill holes for the ballast.
4. I used these tombstones. That's for a pack of 10, you'll need 6 for 1 fixture. 3 tombstones side by side fit snuggly into the end of the steel track chassis. My second batch of tombstones needed a little sanding on each side to fit. Like I said, they fit pretty, very, snuggly. Place 3 in on each side of fixture so they fit right to the end. Mark and drill 1 hole for each tombstone. You'll need an additional nut or washers in between the tombstone and the fixture (as a spacer) to get it a bit higher.
5. I used 3 of these switches from Home Depot. Mark and drill a hole for each. These switches interrupt the 3 same colored lines coming from the ballast, and then go to the tombstones at one end of the fixture. One switch per tombstone. I am not an electrical engineer, so it's possible there are better suited switches for this particular load, but these work for me.
6. I used a clamp connector from Home Depot. I forget the exact size, but the smallest one. Mark and drill hole. You will probably need a 7/8" hole saw, but maybe there's more than one way to do this. This connector is for the main power cable.
7. For the power cable I just used an extension cord. I new I was going to make a few so I bought a hundred footer and cut it into 4 lengths.This was the cheapest route. And bought 3 prong plugs to attach to the cords that needed it. 
8. I would drill all the holes first. Then attach the hardware. Takes me a little over an hour to do this. Then do the wiring, which is pretty easy. I also laid down some duct tape inside the steel stud track for additional shielding. I think this is a good idea. Once everything is connected, put your bulbs (T8 LED ballast compatible) in to test it. If all is well, remove bulbs, insert steel stud to cover up the wiring and screw that in. Insert bulbs again and then use gaffers tape at the ends to hold bulbs in place and cover up the ends and tombstones. Takes me just over 2 hours. 
9. One quick note: sometimes the bulbs will glow (very slightly) even when in the off position. Could be from the switches or an electromagnetic field or something. Haven't been able to solve this, but it doesn't affect my lighting at all as it is so minor. Also, unless you discover otherwise, using the ballast and the ballast compatible bulbs are 100% necessary. I have found these are the only ones that do not result in flicker and banding problems. Good luck.

[Chris Oh]

Man, thank you so much! I saved it offline to make my own over the next few weeks. I have little ones too and I'll be sure to use them for testing.

[The Chris]

Great writeup Jones. Any chance you can weigh one of your lights?

To save a little time/effort I used replacement cords for power tools as the light power cable, circular saws draw a lot more power than lighting fixtures, these cords are more than capable. Then you only have to connect positive/negative/ground once for each fixture.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-ft-16-3-Power-Tool-Cord-AW62631/100661442

I didn't use switches either to keep wiring easier, I plug them into a strip outlet and turn them on from there. If I want less light I just pull a bulb or move them further away from the subject.

[Jonesy Jones]

Great writeup Jones.

To save a little time/effort I used replacement cords for power tools as the light power cable, circular saws draw a lot more power than lighting fixtures, these cords are more than capable. Then you only have to connect positive/negative/ground once for each fixture.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-ft-16-3-Power-Tool-Cord-AW62631/100661442

yes but that's more expensive than buying a hundred foot extension cord for less than $20 and divided by 4, each fixtures cord will be $5 (plus $2 three prong plug), and it'll be 25 feet long, which is super duper handy. Even if I were just making 1 fixture I'd still buy a cheap 25 foot extension cord and just cut off the end. I did your way first, but then realized I wanted the longer cable. 

[mercer]

Jonesy, OT question, but how is your feature you shot on the Canon doing? Any festival luck?