Jump to content

Your ideal NX1 Settings


Geoff CB
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nice look. Any further adjustment made?

p.s.: the guy with the dog was not happy to be recorded :)

Thanks. Yes, lots of adjustment. Actually, I've been experimenting with Premiere & DaVinci over the last few months but went back to FCPX just because it's so FAST and easy to use on my iMac. Was never really happy with the colour correction tools on FCPX though but I found this awesome & easy to use plugin called "Color Precision" which has nice sliders like LightRoom and Premiere. I'll just stay with FCPX now. But yeah, I lifted the shadows on a lot of the clips and did all sorts of other stuff. Can't even remember what I did. LOL 

I might be totally wrong, but with the Noritch DELUT, I noticed that it needs plenty of light to look good ... like overexposure by about a 1/2 - 1 full stop would be good. Has anyone else found this? With darker scenes it doesn't look too good.

man I don't trust these 8bit to 10bit LOG Luts ! Did you notice any compression errors or weird stuff going on in the shadows ?

Na, didn't really notice anything but then again I'm not really looking that hard either. I understand that you and a lot of other people here are professionals and you need to be super critical of gear because it's your job, but I'm just doing this for fun on the weekends so I really don't care too much if it has certain issues unless they are big huge issues but the NX1 does't seem to have such issues. I'm more interested in trying to get some decent footage and tell some kind of a story ... practice editing & grading as well. If you like, I can DropBox you all the RAW footage I shot on the weekend. I'll have to cull it as when converted to ProRes422 it was 11GB or so. Give us a shout of you want it. And BTW, I do appreciate very much the critical testing of the cam you and other on this forum do ... awesome work !!!

Actually, the only thing I notice about this camera using Gamma DR with everything @ default except sharpness set @ -10 (MBL = 0, 16-235) is that the whites are just TOO white occasionally ... not all the time but sometimes. I don't know how to explain this, but they look artificial sometimes. They're not blown out ... they just look too white if that makes any sense.

Loving this cam for street video shooting. With the 16-50S attached I just leave it in S mode 1/50 with auto ISO and 3 stop X3 ND filter, place the focus point where I want it, hit the shutter button to gain focus, flick the AF back to manual on the lens, lock the exposure (assigned to the AF button) and hit record ... all in a couple of seconds. Also love the fact that it has an "EVF" button so I can choose whether I'm going to use the EVF or LCD before I shoot. I often use the touch screen focus as well to refocus if using the LCD ... works well. I had the A7Rii and the thing just pissed me off no end. Nikon for stills & NX1 for video for the time being. 

This morning I received my Fotasy NX to Nikon adapters so will look forward to testing all my Nikon lenses out as well. They seems to fit really nicely and are no where near as expensive as the Novoflex ones. I have a fair few Nikon AF lenses as well as 10 or so Ai-S MF lenses. My Varavon 815 Fluid head arrived as well. Just need a decent tripod next ... thinking to get a Feisol CT-3442 with the levelling base and a centre column ... seems like a nice all-round tripod for video & stills.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EOSHD Pro Color 5 for Sony cameras EOSHD Z LOG for Nikon CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs

I picked up the nd throttle for Nikon to m4/3 and it is great. No color cast. Hard stops. No messing around with step up/down rings. Well worth it!!!

I just sort of cringe at the idea that every single shot I take would go through a polarizer… to each their own I suppose, but "variable ND" isn't really ND at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just sort of cringe at the idea that every single shot I take would go through a polarizer… to each their own I suppose, but "variable ND" isn't really ND at all.

I agree, it's not for every shot. No reason to use it indoors where you can control your lighting, but for outdoors, when you want a shallow depth of field, and you're using multiple lenses with varying front lens diameters... It's a god send!!! But to tell you the truth, I have noticed zero loss in iq using this adapters, even if a "variable ND isn't really an ND at all."

I want it for run n' gun documentary work, the majority of what I do with the camera, not proper film making. 

Honestly, I think it depends on what you consider proper film making? If you have a multi million dollar budget... sure get the best image you can even if it is only incrementally better, but for micro budget to no budget film making, a variable ND is perfectly fine. IMO.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone done much testing in 'normal gamma' with contrast dialed all the way down? I just figured out how to do it (definitely a noob) and shot a quick test and highlight recovery is significantly better without a ton of noticable banding so far (some). shadows don't appear to benefit as much, but still. just wondering if anyone else has tried this and what the results were.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I want it for run n' gun documentary work, the majority of what I do with the camera, not proper film making. 

i havent shot with a tripod in 4 years. 0 stabilization, all hand held. I refuse to partake in proper film making ?

Thanks. Yes, lots of adjustment. Actually, I've been experimenting with Premiere & DaVinci over the last few months but went back to FCPX just because it's so FAST and easy to use on my iMac. Was never really happy with the colour correction tools on FCPX though but I found this awesome & easy to use plugin called "Color Precision" which has nice sliders like LightRoom and Premiere. I'll just stay with FCPX now. But yeah, I lifted the shadows on a lot of the clips and did all sorts of other stuff. Can't even remember what I did. LOL 

I might be totally wrong, but with the Noritch DELUT, I noticed that it needs plenty of light to look good ... like overexposure by about a 1/2 - 1 full stop would be good. Has anyone else found this? With darker scenes it doesn't look too good.

Na, didn't really notice anything but then again I'm not really looking that hard either. I understand that you and a lot of other people here are professionals and you need to be super critical of gear because it's your job, but I'm just doing this for fun on the weekends so I really don't care too much if it has certain issues unless they are big huge issues but the NX1 does't seem to have such issues. I'm more interested in trying to get some decent footage and tell some kind of a story ... practice editing & grading as well. If you like, I can DropBox you all the RAW footage I shot on the weekend. I'll have to cull it as when converted to ProRes422 it was 11GB or so. Give us a shout of you want it. And BTW, I do appreciate very much the critical testing of the cam you and other on this forum do ... awesome work !!!

Actually, the only thing I notice about this camera using Gamma DR with everything @ default except sharpness set @ -10 (MBL = 0, 16-235) is that the whites are just TOO white occasionally ... not all the time but sometimes. I don't know how to explain this, but they look artificial sometimes. They're not blown out ... they just look too white if that makes any sense.

Loving this cam for street video shooting. With the 16-50S attached I just leave it in S mode 1/50 with auto ISO and 3 stop X3 ND filter, place the focus point where I want it, hit the shutter button to gain focus, flick the AF back to manual on the lens, lock the exposure (assigned to the AF button) and hit record ... all in a couple of seconds. Also love the fact that it has an "EVF" button so I can choose whether I'm going to use the EVF or LCD before I shoot. I often use the touch screen focus as well to refocus if using the LCD ... works well. I had the A7Rii and the thing just pissed me off no end. Nikon for stills & NX1 for video for the time being. 

This morning I received my Fotasy NX to Nikon adapters so will look forward to testing all my Nikon lenses out as well. They seems to fit really nicely and are no where near as expensive as the Novoflex ones. I have a fair few Nikon AF lenses as well as 10 or so Ai-S MF lenses. My Varavon 815 Fluid head arrived as well. Just need a decent tripod next ... thinking to get a Feisol CT-3442 with the levelling base and a centre column ... seems like a nice all-round tripod for video & stills.

your work has been quite comparable to the pro's so you're doing a good job ! The more I learn about grading & compression is the more I get out of the cam, any new findings I have I will be sure to post em. How is the 16-50 btw ? Found a guy selling his for $800. Is it comparable to the nikons when it comes to manual focus or does it have that "electronic" focus by wire feel if u kno what I mean

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unfortunately electronic feel, hard to get consistent pulls on it for feature, but good enough for doc. Incredible lens otherwise well worth $800.

 

kidzrevil ... I think the 16-50S is a fine lens and if you were only going to have one Samsung AF lens ... this would be it. It pretty superb in every way. As mentioned, I think it's perfect for run & gun street type stuff. AF is usually excellent and the VR is very good as well .. especially with DIS on. The manual focus isn't as nice as an AI-S lens but it's dampened nicely. Feels a million times better than Nikons range of 1.8 primes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is absolutely gorgeous. I too would love to hear about your settings and grading walkthrough on this. Is it similar to the wedding you you posted a few weeks ago? Bravo man. This is incredible!

Been to busy filming this past week, heres a few shots, this will probably be not the final grade, but its getting there.

 

IuV85YO.jpg

PohGcJb.jpg

XdqpGfa.jpg

k72DeyJ.jpg

WFP73R6.jpg

fhyLj1e.png

wjjrRIv.png

XkDoJmH.png

plsk4Dd.png

62jSvLT.png

^Meant to send this to Ricardo**

This is absolutely gorgeous. I too would love to hear about your settings and grading walkthrough on this. Is it similar to the wedding you you posted a few weeks ago? Bravo man. This is incredible!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone done much testing in 'normal gamma' with contrast dialed all the way down? I just figured out how to do it (definitely a noob) and shot a quick test and highlight recovery is significantly better without a ton of noticable banding so far (some). shadows don't appear to benefit as much, but still. just wondering if anyone else has tried this and what the results were.

Intersting. The consensus has usually been to leave contrast where it is or the colours get all Sony-like :)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

kidzrevil ... I think the 16-50S is a fine lens and if you were only going to have one Samsung AF lens ... this would be it. It pretty superb in every way. As mentioned, I think it's perfect for run & gun street type stuff. AF is usually excellent and the VR is very good as well .. especially with DIS on. The manual focus isn't as nice as an AI-S lens but it's dampened nicely. Feels a million times better than Nikons range of 1.8 primes.

i'll look into it. A month or two from now the prices will plummet 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@ ricardo....    Nice look. Could you say something about the Lens and your grading?

Best regards

Matthias

love your looks dude. What lens ? The wide angle shots look killer

 

^Meant to send this to Ricardo**

This is absolutely gorgeous. I too would love to hear about your settings and grading walkthrough on this. Is it similar to the wedding you you posted a few weeks ago? Bravo man. This is incredible!

Thank you all :d Im glad you guys enjoyed it.

Lenses used for this was the Canon 50mm f1.8, Samyang 24 f1.4 and the Samyang 14mm f2.8 for the wide shots.

Grading/camera settings was similar to the wedding settings I posted earlier, in fact, I havent changed my camera settings since then. The only thing Im not really happy about is the banding, which I am still fighting to eliminate.

I already tweaked this further, so Ill share a few later, and post the full settings =)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16-50s is great, but the focus is by wire, unfortunately. The only two lenses which are mechanically coupled in nx ecosystem are the 85 and the 60.

Actually I think the focus by wire of the 16-50S is quite amazing. It's very precise and adjustable, and the most important, it's "linear", which means I can even put it on the follow focus and it works perfectly and stops where I want. To be honest it's smoother than many canon L lense I've used. It's not the same as those bad focus by wire system many people are complaining about.

On the other hand, the focus by wire system of the sony E mount lenses is not "linear", if you turn the focus ring faster or slower, the step size of the lens focus changes, and you end up with a wrong scale on the follow focus and it's totally unusable. I'm not sure whether every E mount lenses are like this, but the ones I've used, they are. This variable manual focus step size makes the E lenses quite unusable for manual focus, because it's quite unpredictable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone done much testing in 'normal gamma' with contrast dialed all the way down? I just figured out how to do it (definitely a noob) and shot a quick test and highlight recovery is significantly better without a ton of noticable banding so far (some). shadows don't appear to benefit as much, but still. just wondering if anyone else has tried this and what the results were.

Right now is VIVID my best settings: 

Color: Red x0.95, Green x0.95. Blue x1.00, Saturation 0, Sharp. -10, Contrast -5, Hue -3°, MBL -8, 0-255 

Vivid is too much saturated and contrasty by default so I put contrast and MBL down to achieve better DR and keep colors correctly saturated without addional grading. 

Below is screen form video (just changed luminance from 0-255 to 0-235 in Premeire), no grading and RAW converted to jpg without any editing. I have to say I really like the result - by default is video much nicer that un-edited RAW. According my testing is DR similar to DynamicDR gamma but with better colors (BTW I think the pink on the face correspond with reality - it was really cold :-))

I will do more tests but I like so far... maybe I will play with hue and satuation a little and use color checker board.

 EDIT: I would now put hue to 0 as the result is probably too pinky

_1130005.00_04_38_00.Still015.jpg

_1170024.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right now is VIVID my best settings: 

Color: Red x0.95, Green x0.95. Blue x1.00, Saturation 0, Sharp. -10, Contrast -5, Hue -3°, MBL -8, 0-255 

Vivid is too much saturated and contrasty by default so I put contrast and MBL down to achieve better DR and keep colors correctly saturated without addional grading. 

Below is screen form video (just changed luminance from 0-255 to 0-235 in Premeire), no grading and RAW converted to jpg without any editing. I have to say I really like the result - by default is video much nicer that un-edited RAW. According my testing is DR similar to DynamicDR gamma but with better colors (BTW I think the pink on the face correspond with reality - it was really cold :-))

I will do more tests but I like so far... 

 

_1130005.00_04_38_00.Still015.jpg

_1170024.JPG

interesting results !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree, it's not for every shot. No reason to use it indoors where you can control your lighting, but for outdoors, when you want a shallow depth of field, and you're using multiple lenses with varying front lens diameters... It's a god send!!! But to tell you the truth, I have noticed zero loss in iq using this adapters, even if a "variable ND isn't really an ND at all."

Honestly, I think it depends on what you consider proper film making? If you have a multi million dollar budget... sure get the best image you can even if it is only incrementally better, but for micro budget to no budget film making, a variable ND is perfectly fine. IMO.

Hm, i was also looking for a viable ND solution but found that:

http://havecamerawilltravel.com/photographer/tiffen-variable-filter-field-test

"problem is that the filter makes the image very soft as well as introducing new chromatic aberration. And it’s not the kind of softness that some careful sharpening can overcome. In short, it’s nowhere near the quality I need for images for clients or publication."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • EOSHD Pro Color 5 for All Sony cameras
    EOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs
    EOSHD Dynamic Range Enhancer for H.264/H.265
×
×
  • Create New...