Soap Bubble Bokeh

[Oliver Daniel]

Hello!

I've got a project where the aesthetic of "soap bubble bokeh" is the way to go.

I'm very, very aware of the Trioplan 100mm and it's sharp rise in value. At this moment in time, I can't justify buying one of these on eBay for a single project (even though i want one for keeps).

Does anybody recommend a more "budget" alternative? 

 

[Nikkor]

Get an ND filter that is smaller than the filter thread of the lens (the size will be an artistic decision, but it must be smaller), take the glass out and glue it somehow to an UV filter that threads into the lens. This should give something soap bubble like, you have to find a way of glueing the filter with no residues (look for tutorials about recementing lenses).

That's my idea

[Cinegain]

Hello!

I've got a project where the aesthetic of "soap bubble bokeh" is the way to go.

I'm very, very aware of the Trioplan 100mm and it's sharp rise in value. At this moment in time, I can't justify buying one of these on eBay for a single project (even though i want one for keeps).

Does anybody recommend a more "budget" alternative? 

 

You can get the 50mm Domiplan. Or for interesting enough bokeh go for a Russian Zenit lens, there's the renewed 40-2 you might be interested in.

[Hans Punk]

 

Does anybody recommend a more "budget" alternative? 

 

 

Grab something like this, and insert it into a cheap chinese helicoid from ebay (for focusing). It won't have an aperture, but if it's simply the bubble bokeh you are looking for, then it should not matter that it is fixed wide open: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIAPLAN-2-8-100-low-budget-Trioplan-Meyer-Optik-Goerlitz-2-8-Pentacon-/301804166372?hash=item4644ee1ce4:g:UXIAAOSwEgVWTzM6

 

[Oliver Daniel]

You can get the 50mm Domiplan. Or for interesting enough bokeh go for a Russian Zenit lens, there's the renewed 40-2 you might be interested in.

Got a Helios 40-2 coming!

Grab something like this, and insert it into a cheap chinese helicoid from ebay (for focusing). It won't have an aperture, but if it's simply the bubble bokeh you are looking for, then it should not matter that it is fixed wide open: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIAPLAN-2-8-100-low-budget-Trioplan-Meyer-Optik-Goerlitz-2-8-Pentacon-/301804166372?hash=item4644ee1ce4:g:UXIAAOSwEgVWTzM6

 

Seen these - but what exactly are these cheap chinese helicoid things? I guess to mount the lens, because the Diaplan is a projector lens indeed. 

 

[Cinegain]

Got a Helios 40-2 coming!

   [..]

Nice! I saw the next samples on http://www.rugift.com/helios-40-2-85mm-f15-lens-nikon-new-design.htm . Looks pretty epic.

But it's quite a specialty lens which you can't just go and use on everything and it's not exactly priced like some of the other vintage roughly similar character ones that perhaps are in the sub-100 bucks range. So I haven't pulled the trigger yet myself.

You can also try to find an Orestor f/2.8 100 or 135mm.

[Bioskop.Inc]

Hello!

I've got a project where the aesthetic of "soap bubble bokeh" is the way to go.

I'm very, very aware of the Trioplan 100mm and it's sharp rise in value. At this moment in time, I can't justify buying one of these on eBay for a single project (even though i want one for keeps).

Does anybody recommend a more "budget" alternative?

All the Meyer-Optik lenses produce great round/soap bokeh - the Troplan is the king.

Its a bit like the Helios 40-2 is the king of swirly bokeh for the Russain lenses, but the Helios 44-2 also produces swirly bokeh.

I got some really good soapy Bokeh from the Lydith 30mm f3.5 recently & the Orestor 100mm f2.8 is an amazing lens - the 135mm Orestor is known as the Bokeh Monster!

[Hans Punk]

"Seen these - but what exactly are these cheap chinese helicoid things? I guess to mount the lens, because the Diaplan is a projector lens indeed".

Helicoid is the focusing ring and supplies a rear mount to adapt to camera. I've converted many projector lenses this way, cheap way to achieve results similar or identical with projector lenses vs the much more expensive photographic versions. 99% of the time the projector lenses have no aperture, but if it's all about the bokeh and shallow DOF...it is not always a downside. Helios 40-2 is a great lens, but if you wanted soap bubble bokeh as close as possible to your example image, The Meyer Diaplan 100mm f/2.8 or Pentacon AV 100mm f/2.8 projector lens would probably be as close as you would get - sub 100 quid.

If aperture-less  lenses don't scare you too much, a 'cheaper' alternative to the Helios 40-2 is the Cyclop H3T-1 version. Was made to fit soviet night intensifier scopes. I have one remounted to an M65 Helicoid and it is one of my favourite lenses by far. Crazy bokeh with oval aperture installed to give faux anamorphic look, fixed oval aperture shape effectively stops the lens down slightly on horizontal axis to improve sharpness and eliminate colour fringing that is present wide open on this model, and the regular Helios 40-2.

I got some really good soapy Bokeh from the Lydith 30mm f3.5 recently & the Orestor 100mm f2.8 is an amazing lens.

Oh man, I'm currently on the lookout for Orestor 100mm f2.8 (15 blade zebra version) - can you recommend it as good taking lens for morphic? What the flares/ coating like...decent for complimenting iscomorphot/Kowa B&H golden flare?

Already own the 135mm, which is lovely, but a bit too long for morphic rigging sometimes.

[Bioskop.Inc]

Oh man, I'm currently on the lookout for Orestor 100mm f2.8 (15 blade zebra version) - can you recommend it as good taking lens for morphic? What the flares/ coating like...decent for complimenting iscomorphot/Kowa B&H golden flare?

Already own the 135mm, which is lovely, but a bit too long for morphic rigging sometimes.

Well its a lot smaller than the 135mm, that's for sure. I really use it for photography & haven't really gone morph with it much.

Just looking at it now, the coating is a faint purple. I just bunged on my Kowa B&H & shone the iPhone light at it - it does flare, but not crazy mad stuff (you get the 2 horizontal, which looked a bit muted colour-wise - green & gold).

The good thing is that it has loads of markings in ft, due to the long focus through, so it matches up to the markings on the Kowa B&H really well - no guess work or struggling to get perfect focus.

I really like the lens & am not that crazy about flares anymore (unless they are internal) - what you will get is really nice bokeh & a lovely vintage creamy image.

Hope that helps?

[Hans Punk]

Well its a lot smaller than the 135mm, that's for sure. I really use it for photography & haven't really gone morph with it much.

Just looking at it now, the coating is a faint purple. I just bunged on my Kowa B&H & shone the iPhone light at it - it does flare, but not crazy mad stuff (you get the 2 horizontal, which looked a bit muted colour-wise - green & gold).

The good thing is that it has loads of markings in ft, due to the long focus through, so it matches up to the markings on the Kowa B&H really well - no guess work or struggling to get perfect focus.

I really like the lens & am not that crazy about flares anymore (unless they are internal) - what you will get is really nice bokeh & a lovely vintage creamy image.

Hope that helps?

It does, many thanks mate!

Yes, flares are very long in the tooth these days, unless as a result of genuine lighting conditions - rather than hunting all the time for them. It's all about the bokeh and highlight rolloff quality methinks. Was curious as to 100 mm's flare - as it seems like an ideal taking lens, but was half expecting it to have an ugly or distracting flare characteristic when coupled with morphic...glad to hear it works well. Cheers!

[Bioskop.Inc]

It does, many thanks mate!

Yes, flares are very long in the tooth these days, unless as a result of genuine lighting conditions - rather than hunting all the time for them. It's all about the bokeh and highlight rolloff quality methinks. Was curious as to 100 mm's flare - as it seems like an ideal taking lens, but was half expecting it to have an ugly or distracting flare characteristic when coupled with morphic...glad to hear it works well. Cheers!

Out of focus areas are a dream with the Meyer's, so for morph they are ideal - round/oval bokeh all the way!

And its tiny!

[Oliver Daniel]

Nice! I saw the next samples on http://www.rugift.com/helios-40-2-85mm-f15-lens-nikon-new-design.htm . Looks pretty epic.

But it's quite a specialty lens which you can't just go and use on everything and it's not exactly priced like some of the other vintage roughly similar character ones that perhaps are in the sub-100 bucks range. So I haven't pulled the trigger yet myself.

You can also try to find an Orestor f/2.8 100 or 135mm.

Cheers!

Can't wait to get the Helios 40-2. 

I've got Sigma ART and Samyang EF lenses for more regular looks, however I'm on a character-lens obsessive campaign. It might be time to pull the trigger on one of those really Schidt lenses too with aperture modules. 

"Seen these - but what exactly are these cheap chinese helicoid things? I guess to mount the lens, because the Diaplan is a projector lens indeed".

Helicoid is the focusing ring and supplies a rear mount to adapt to camera. I've converted many projector lenses this way, cheap way to achieve results similar or identical with projector lenses vs the much more expensive photographic versions. 99% of the time the projector lenses have no aperture, but if it's all about the bokeh and shallow DOF...it is not always a downside. Helios 40-2 is a great lens, but if you wanted soap bubble bokeh as close as possible to your example image, The Meyer Diaplan 100mm f/2.8 or Pentacon AV 100mm f/2.8 projector lens would probably be as close as you would get - sub 100 quid.

If aperture-less  lenses don't scare you too much, a 'cheaper' alternative to the Helios 40-2 is the Cyclop H3T-1 version. Was made to fit soviet night intensifier scopes. I have one remounted to an M65 Helicoid and it is one of my favourite lenses by far. Crazy bokeh with oval aperture installed to give faux anamorphic look, fixed oval aperture shape effectively stops the lens down slightly on horizontal axis to improve sharpness and eliminate colour fringing that is present wide open on this model, and the regular Helios 40-2.

Oh man, I'm currently on the lookout for Orestor 100mm f2.8 (15 blade zebra version) - can you recommend it as good taking lens for morphic? What the flares/ coating like...decent for complimenting iscomorphot/Kowa B&H golden flare?

Already own the 135mm, which is lovely, but a bit too long for morphic rigging sometimes.

Cheers, I'll have a look. 

I have to admit, I'm not the worlds best at DIY stuff.

These projector lenses seem quite rare!

[Liam]

Wouldn't happen to like the ring bokeh from a mirror lens, would you? That would be very budget. Don't know if you can find any under 800mm though

Edit: sorry,that's not really the same

[tupp]

Probably there are many lenses that will give such blurred highlights.

 

Here is a shot from a US$24 Fujian 35mm f1.7:

This image came from this page, and here are some Ebay listings for the Fujian 35mm.

 

Here is a screen capture from a test I did with a tilt/swing adapter and an old (1960s) Nikkor 50mm f1.4 lens:

 

It seems that the size, brightness and focus of the highlights affect their appearance as "soap bubbles."  In the dragonfly example that you gave, note that there are two bright bokeh highlights on the left side that appear more like overlapping, solid, bright circles (rather than like "soap bubbles").  Their bright "rim" also appears to be thicker.  In the tilt/swing example directly above, note that the smaller, more distant, out-of-focus and dimmer, green signal lights look more like soap bubbles than the brighter and closer (bigger), and less blurred headlights and signal light.   So, ideally, the highlights should be small (tiny points) that are relatively dim and, of course, as out-of-focus as possible.

[richg101]

Hello!

I've got a project where the aesthetic of "soap bubble bokeh" is the way to go.

I'm very, very aware of the Trioplan 100mm and it's sharp rise in value. At this moment in time, I can't justify buying one of these on eBay for a single project (even though i want one for keeps).

Does anybody recommend a more "budget" alternative? 

 

I've seen a steady interest in the 'soap bubble effect' growing on the vintage lens forums and on Flickr.  The regular suggestions I see to get this effect is a triplet design, and meyer seems to be mentioned before any other.  Leading to crazy prices being paid for rather poor lenses.  it should be considered that the effect is usually a result of the shooting techinque rather than the lens itself.  most of the subjects seem to be macro shots of bugs or toadstools with a dynamic background just after it has rained.  for example, the picture above wouldn't exhibit the bubble effect if the bug wasn;t infront of water.   I think even if someone were to buy the gold standard meyer bubble lens, they'd still only see this effect when shooting with lots of extension tubes at very high magnification.    

 

just about any medium tele lens from the 1960's will give this effect.  you want old lenses with coatings with little to no apparent colour to them.  my personal favourite for this effect is a late 1950's zeiss jena biotar 58mm - coatings are almost non existent so light source bokeh has a glow.

[ricardo_sousa11]

I randomly got this effect while using the 50mm f1.8 canon on the NX1, I realized it does this quite often, something that didnt happen on my T3i with the same lens, I wonder if it has to do with flange distance.

 

**This is a videoframe BTW.