mercer Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 I think a lot of times I know too much, yet not enough, so I'm my own worst enemy. I am overthinking this. I have to take what I've learned and go and shoot like I did with my eos-m, instinctually, instead of trying to be a pro. Andy, did you say you recommend the Zhongyl as the best cheapo speedbooster? I know the XL is the best, but if you could only afford one of the cheapo speedboosters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy lee Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 I used to use Zhongyi on my G6 but now I use Metabones XL on the G7 as it is x0.64 and cancels out the 2.3 crop down to an APSC 1.6 I like best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRenaissanceMan Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 1 hour ago, andy lee said: I used to use Zhongyi on my G6 but now I use Metabones XL on the G7 as it is x0.64 and cancels out the 2.3 crop down to an APSC 1.6 I like best. Love the info you're sharing, but minor math correction. The G7's 4K crop factor is actually 2.2-- slightly improved over the GH4. With the SBXL providing a .64x reduction, that puts your final crop factor at a healthy 1.408x. That's almost the exact size of spherical s35. Pretty swanky. webrunner5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy lee Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 thats the point Im making from Andrew Reeds original blog on this combination . you have a Super 35mm field of view like and Alexa with an image quality that in my tests looked as good as the Alexa footage we campared it to - all at a fraction of the cost ...and Size too , you can get a Panny on a car Dashboard easily I do this alot for incar shots. Fredrik Lyhne 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stab Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 Guys, I'm messing around with my new Panasonic G7 and I've noticed a something weird. Focus peaking does seem to work great, but actually only after I hit the record button. So when I'm previewing the scene I only see a couple of 'peaking lines' at most, but when I'm recording I see tens of lines aiding me. In other words, peaking works great during recording but not so much before I hit the record button. Is that normal? Or is it some kind of setting I can tweak? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 44 minutes ago, Stab said: Guys, I'm messing around with my new Panasonic G7 and I've noticed a something weird. Focus peaking does seem to work great, but actually only after I hit the record button. So when I'm previewing the scene I only see a couple of 'peaking lines' at most, but when I'm recording I see tens of lines aiding me. In other words, peaking works great during recording but not so much before I hit the record button. Is that normal? Or is it some kind of setting I can tweak? Thanks! I have the same issue, I think it's normal. And yes it is annoying. I have mine set to Low with orange color. It works better with modern lenses as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 I tested out the natural profile today with everything dialed down. Nikkor and jbCinC_12 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy lee Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 I only dial down the saturation and contrast to -5 everything else is at zero, then grade it to put the colour and contrast back in . mercer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 7 minutes ago, andy lee said: I only dial down the saturation and contrast to -5 everything else is at zero, then grade it to put the colour and contrast back in . Don't let Ebrahim hear you say that. Haha. Thanks I'll try that next. Overall, I am really liking the Natural profile. Much easier to lightly tweak than CineLikeD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRenaissanceMan Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 3 hours ago, mercer said: I tested out the natural profile today with everything dialed down. That's by far the best footage/screengrabs I've seen you post. mercer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 4 minutes ago, TheRenaissanceMan said: That's by far the best footage/screengrabs I've seen you post. Thanks... I think. Yeah, I've been known to be a little heavy handed. This go around, I stopped worrying about histograms and waveforms and grading, and just went for an honest image. Plus I really love this new Sigma lens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mastroprimo Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Hi Andy thx a lot for all the time end precious informations shared. I have a gini followfocus, from i think 4 years and i love it. Really massive well dumpened stuff. I still have a question what about the bit dept on internal and external recording? Is the hdmi output 4:2:2 ? Or it's only 4:2:0 ? And what is the maximum bitrate in external recorder for 1080p video ? . Thx a lot again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy lee Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 23 hours ago, mercer said: Don't let Ebrahim hear you say that. Haha. Thanks I'll try that next. Overall, I am really liking the Natural profile. Much easier to lightly tweak than CineLikeD. you get a much more usable image with natural and you dont need to get so tweeked up re correcting like you do with cine D profile ,that ties you up in knots correcting before you actually put the look on it you want to . I used natural on the g6 for 2 years now Im using it on the G7 , mercer and Mastroprimo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 On March 12, 2016 at 7:11 PM, andy lee said: I only dial down the saturation and contrast to -5 everything else is at zero, then grade it to put the colour and contrast back in . Sorry, but I need to ask... Why do you leave sharpening and noise reduction at 0? Everything I have read seems to contradict that. Of course, nothing you have written about the G7 has been wrong yet, so it's definitely worthy of a test. 2 hours ago, andy lee said: you get a much more usable image with natural and you dont need to get so tweeked up re correcting like you do with cine D profile ,that ties you up in knots correcting before you actually put the look on it you want to . I used natural on the g6 for 2 years now Im using it on the G7 , Yes, good point. I actually like the basic, out of box, look of CineLikeD, but it takes too much to correct without the latitude to do it justice. Thanks to ReanaissanceMan, I have been reading up on this Leeming LUT, which seems to have some promise, but for now Natural seems to be the best option. If the guy makes a G7 version of the LUT, I may give it a try because people are getting some great results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy lee Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 I leave nr and sharpening at 0 because I like the look this profile gives when saturation and contrast are -5 , Panasonic have done an amazing job on the codec for this camera in 4k UHF its the best they have ever done in a small micro m4/3 camera yet, I personally don't believe in adding sharpening in post ever , I just don't do it never have never will , just get it right in camera first , all my tests against the red and Alexa where done on these settings and I like how the final image looks once graded , it works so I'm not going to start sharpening every cut I do in post when it looks great straight out the camera . I like pin sharp images I use the best aspheric lenses I can , the Nikon zooms ate insanely sharp and produce a great usable image mercer, Mastroprimo and markr041 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgreszcz Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 On 12 March 2016 at 2:51 PM, Stab said: Guys, I'm messing around with my new Panasonic G7 and I've noticed a something weird. Focus peaking does seem to work great, but actually only after I hit the record button. So when I'm previewing the scene I only see a couple of 'peaking lines' at most, but when I'm recording I see tens of lines aiding me. In other words, peaking works great during recording but not so much before I hit the record button. Is that normal? Or is it some kind of setting I can tweak? Thanks! I get the same thing with both my G7 and LX100. I'm not sure how to improve this. One way I work around this is to use yellow as the colour and then switch the LCD to monochrome to have the peaking jump out a bit more. I find the peaking in my Olympus EM-5II much more obvious. Please post back if you find a solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 4 hours ago, andy lee said: I leave nr and sharpening at 0 because I like the look this profile gives when saturation and contrast are -5 , Panasonic have done an amazing job on the codec for this camera in 4k UHF its the best they have ever done in a small micro m4/3 camera yet, I personally don't believe in adding sharpening in post ever , I just don't do it never have never will , just get it right in camera first , all my tests against the red and Alexa where done on these settings and I like how the final image looks once graded , it works so I'm not going to start sharpening every cut I do in post when it looks great straight out the camera . I like pin sharp images I use the best aspheric lenses I can , the Nikon zooms ate insanely sharp and produce a great usable image That's a straightforward answer, thanks. You haven't steered me wrong yet, I'll give it a go next time. Mastroprimo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy lee Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 it makes a nicer image that grades well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBFrancis Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 I've tested the NR on the G7, and while setting it at 0 does yield good results in most cases, it macro blocks just a bit at times especially in the shadows. I'm assuming though you're talking about it coupled with the Atomos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy lee Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 It works well how Im using it so far no micro blocking and Im really playing in the shadows and printing it down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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