The 4K Fuji X-T2 is here

[Inazuma]

7 hours ago, jonpais said:

Hi Sebastian. Here's the test I promised. Sorry, I feel really awkward just whipping the camera around, I'm not used to doing that. I guess I even frightened a couple of people on the street. I have no idea whether these results will be useful or not. I just glanced at them briefly and don't see any difference. Of course, it's not scientific, because I can't be moving at the same speed each time. 

 

Thanks but do you think you could do it a bit more scientifically?

• So indoors, filming something that's thin and vertically long. Like another tripod or a door frame.
• Make sure the shutter is at 180 degrees.
• Do 3 videos. One without the VPB attached, one with it attached and one with it attached plus Boost mode turned on.
• You might find you can get a more consistant pan by just whipping as fast as you can. 

Since the VPB juices the camera up a bit more, I believe it might increase the readout speed. It might also explain why Cinema5d found the rolling shutter to be significantly better than the A7S whilst the DVXUser guy found it to be very similar. 

[deezid]

On 10.1.2017 at 1:54 AM, Inazuma said:

Interesting tests! Looks like Fuji wins for high iso and AF. EM1 II for DR and sharpness. For me though, Fuji def takes the lead for its overall rendering (at least in those scenes - except for the portrait which I think they should have used a different profile and WB).

Huh?
The X-T2 shows clearly much more detail, where the Olympus looks muddy while oversharpened with lot's of halos. The Fuji wins hands down.

[Inazuma]

7 hours ago, deezid said:

Huh?
The X-T2 shows clearly much more detail, where the Olympus looks muddy while oversharpened with lot's of halos. The Fuji wins hands down.

Maybe I need glasses then because while I do see oversharpening on the Olympus, I'm not seeing any more detail with the Fuji. In the ISO test at the end the Oly does appear to be showing more detail.

Anyway comparing detail on a 4k image is splitting hairs. The overall rendering is what counts and Fuji wins that hands down (in that test at least).

 

[jonpais]

On 1/12/2017 at 1:46 AM, Django said:

curious, why would the booster grip enhance RS?

btw, i've decided to keep this cam.. despite it's quirks & shortcomings.. something about the image and it's the smallest cam/lens combo i own. will be taking it with me to India next month as my travel cam. so i'll probably be getting the grip soon.. any ND recommendations ?

We look forward to seeing some clips of your trip! You must be excited. I have been using Hoya HMC NDX8 filters exclusively for the past couple of years - until proven otherwise, I think they perform as well or better than some filters costing hundreds of dollars. But yes, it's not variable. 

[Dean]

Hello.

Does anyone know if you can use AF-S in video on this camera? Even just to get the initial focus? I couldn't seem to be able to do it in the couple I have played around in shops but I didn't change any settings. Would be nice if you could still use AF-S while recording but I doubt it ... only Panasonic seem to be able to do that.

Also, has anyone used the used the 18-55 OiS with this cam for video? I'd like to know what the stabilisation is like and if there are any examples out there. I've found a few examples but nothing great. It seemed very good in the couple I tried in the shops. I would never ever use a tripod or gimble out in the street so that's not an option.

And one last thing, is it possible to film in 4k with the screen brightness turned up? This is handy for bright days.

Cheers.

 

[jonpais]

2 hours ago, Dean said:

Hello.

Does anyone know if you can use AF-S in video on this camera? Even just to get the initial focus? I couldn't seem to be able to do it in the couple I have played around in shops but I didn't change any settings. Would be nice if you could still use AF-S while recording but I doubt it ... only Panasonic seem to be able to do that.

Also, has anyone used the used the 18-55 OiS with this cam for video? I'd like to know what the stabilisation is like and if there are any examples out there. I've found a few examples but nothing great. It seemed very good in the couple I tried in the shops. I would never ever use a tripod or gimble out in the street so that's not an option.

And one last thing, is it possible to film in 4k with the screen brightness turned up? This is handy for bright days.

Cheers.

 

There's a switch on the front of the camera to select between AF-C, AF-S and M focus. I almost always leave the camera in manual focus and use the AF-L button to acquire focus, that way, I can see the focus peaking when I move around the subject. I haven't used the 18-55mm, but tests I've seen give it around 2.7-2.8 EV, which is average. One of the best I've seen is the Olympus 300mm, which is between 4.5-4.7 EV. The screen does not dim while recording 4K, and you can adjust screen brightness in the settings. How about a monopod?  

[Dean]

12 hours ago, jonpais said:

There's a switch on the front of the camera to select between AF-C, AF-S and M focus. I almost always leave the camera in manual focus and use the AF-L button to acquire focus, that way, I can see the focus peaking when I move around the subject. I haven't used the 18-55mm, but tests I've seen give it around 2.7-2.8 EV, which is average. One of the best I've seen is the Olympus 300mm, which is between 4.5-4.7 EV. The screen does not dim while recording 4K, and you can adjust screen brightness in the settings. How about a monopod?  

Thanks Jon.

I hav a monopod but never use it ... any sort of support for a cam during street video ruins all the fun for me. Sometimes we go to one of the islands here or to the countryside and I'll bring a tripod & fluid head but not on the streets.

I was really surprised just how stable the 18-55 was. Going by what I saw on the screen it looked more stable than using my NX1 with the 16-50 with OIS in conjunction with the electronic stabilisation.

Thats good to know I can use AF-S in MF via the AF-L button. Can I use just AF-S and not MF if I want to? Can I focus on something and then refocus on something else while recording?

Good to know about the screen not dimming.

Also, how do you get 1/50? It's 1/60 on the dial.

Sorry for all the questions  

If I get this cam, I'd use the X-T2 mainly for stills but who knows? My video needs are not professional and I could do most with the 18-55. Still, the ultimate weapon on the streets is the GX85 and a small prime  I'd always keep that. Might sell the G85 though.

[Trek of Joy]

1 hour ago, Dean said:

Thanks Jon.

I hav a monopod but never use it ... any sort of support for a cam during street video ruins all the fun for me. Sometimes we go to one of the islands here or to the countryside and I'll bring a tripod & fluid head but not on the streets.

I was really surprised just how stable the 18-55 was. Going by what I saw on the screen it looked more stable than using my NX1 with the 16-50 with OIS in conjunction with the electronic stabilisation.

Thats good to know I can use AF-S in MF via the AF-L button. Can I use just AF-S and not MF if I want to? Can I focus on something and then refocus on something else while recording?

Good to know about the screen not dimming.

Also, how do you get 1/50? It's 1/60 on the dial.

Sorry for all the questions  

If I get this cam, I'd use the X-T2 mainly for stills but who knows? My video needs are not professional and I could do most with the 18-55. Still, the ultimate weapon on the streets is the GX85 and a small prime  I'd always keep that. Might sell the G85 though.

I use AF-c a lot when I'm in run-and-gun mode, just move the focus point with the joystick. Its brilliant. I don't think you can refocus with AF-s after hitting record, IIRC that's why I use AF-c. I love the 18-55 and the 10-24, OIS is so good I don't miss IBIS on the A7rII at all, and that's not hyperbole, I sold a full-on Sony kit to move to twin XT2's for a year of traveling around the world. The 50-140 has the best stabilization of any zoom lens I've used, including the Canon 70-200 IS mkII.

You can adjust the SS beyond top dial values with the rear control dial, turning it give you what's between SS on the dial. BUT - you can also set it to"T" and just use the rear control dial exclusively to control your SS. I have it set this way because I'm constantly flipping between stills and video and its easier/faster to scroll from 1/500 to 1/50 with the rear dial. I don't use a ND very often either, so I use the SS to adjust exposure after hitting record.

Despite its quirks, its a great hybrid camera. Stills are fantastic, you can shoot raw + jpeg with your favorite film simulation, raw and pick a film simulation later with in cam develop mode (surprisingly quick/easy) or with LR. I have no regrets about leaving Sony and leaving FF for the XT2.

[jonpais]

1 hour ago, Dean said:

Thanks Jon.

I hav a monopod but never use it ... any sort of support for a cam during street video ruins all the fun for me. Sometimes we go to one of the islands here or to the countryside and I'll bring a tripod & fluid head but not on the streets.

I was really surprised just how stable the 18-55 was. Going by what I saw on the screen it looked more stable than using my NX1 with the 16-50 with OIS in conjunction with the electronic stabilisation.

Thats good to know I can use AF-S in MF via the AF-L button. Can I use just AF-S and not MF if I want to? Can I focus on something and then refocus on something else while recording?

Good to know about the screen not dimming.

Also, how do you get 1/50? It's 1/60 on the dial.

Sorry for all the questions  

If I get this cam, I'd use the X-T2 mainly for stills but who knows? My video needs are not professional and I could do most with the 18-55. Still, the ultimate weapon on the streets is the GX85 and a small prime  I'd always keep that. Might sell the G85 though.

To refocus while shooting, use the joystick. I've never done it, but from what I've heard, the problem you can run into is that the camera may start focusing on points in between points as you move the joystick. To get 1/50, move the shutter speed dial to 1/60. Below the shutter dial, between the AE-L and AF-L, a wheel allows you to make incremental adjustments.

 

[Dean]

Thanks @jonpais & @Trek of Joy

Looks like AF-S works a bit differently than on a Pana. I just hope it doesn't default to AF-C after recording after I've set the initial focus with AF-S. The joystick in AF-C might be good sometimes. I'd always use MF if given he time.

Fuji will probably keep looking after this camera with FW updates which is comforting. Maybe internal F-LOG one day  

 

 

[jonpais]

1 hour ago, Trek of Joy said:

I use AF-c a lot when I'm in run-and-gun mode, just move the focus point with the joystick. Its brilliant. I don't think you can refocus with AF-s after hitting record, IIRC that's why I use AF-c. I love the 18-55 and the 10-24, OIS is so good I don't miss IBIS on the A7rII at all, and that's not hyperbole, I sold a full-on Sony kit to move to twin XT2's for a year of traveling around the world. The 50-140 has the best stabilization of any zoom lens I've used, including the Canon 70-200 IS mkII.

You can adjust the SS beyond top dial values with the rear control dial, turning it give you what's between SS on the dial. BUT - you can also set it to"T" and just use the rear control dial exclusively to control your SS. I have it set this way because I'm constantly flipping between stills and video and its easier/faster to scroll from 1/500 to 1/50 with the rear dial. I don't use a ND very often either, so I use the SS to adjust exposure after hitting record.

Despite its quirks, its a great hybrid camera. Stills are fantastic, you can shoot raw + jpeg with your favorite film simulation, raw and pick a film simulation later with in cam develop mode (surprisingly quick/easy) or with LR. I have no regrets about leaving Sony and leaving FF for the XT2.

Some very good advice. I haven't tried using the joystick while in AF-C yet, I'll have to give it a shot this afternoon. But Dean should know that AF-C can be a bit abrupt when it changes focus points on it's own - it isn't smooth like Sony, for example. Also, because several members here have also said they use shutter speed to control exposure when shooting video, I tried it out once or twice for myself - for static subjects, it works just fine, but for moving people and objects, it can introduce a stuttering motion. I used it once when a stylist was spraying hairspray on a customer and it looked pretty neat though. Just something to be aware of.  Finally, while I have only used the 50-140mm on sticks so far, that lens is probably one of my favorites. The build quality is also amazing. I believe it also has something like four AF motors, more than any other to the best of my knowledge.

[Dean]

Just spent 10 mins in a shop with this cam in movie mode and i can not make the focus point appear. Tried lots of different settings. 

I'd like to at least see the focus point and move it to where i want it on the screen with the joystick and aquire focus before I press record. 

Lools like in movie mode there is no focus point in the screen at all whther the dial is turned to AF-C or AF-S.  Is that correct?

Cheers. 

[jonpais]

35 minutes ago, Dean said:

Just spent 10 mins in a shop with this cam in movie mode and i can not make the focus point appear. Tried lots of different settings. 

I'd like to at least see the focus point and move it to where i want it on the screen with the joystick and aquire focus before I press record. 

Lools like in movie mode there is no focus point in the screen at all whther the dial is turned to AF-C or AF-S.  Is that correct?

Cheers. 

Factory settings don't show the focus points for some reason. You have to go into the menu and enable them. I've been trying to find those settings for the past ten minutes to no avail, but they are available in AF-C and AF-S. Can't a salesperson there help you?

[Dean]

6 minutes ago, jonpais said:

Factory settings don't show the focus points for some reason. You have to go into the menu and enable them. I've been trying to find those settings for the past ten minutes to no avail, but they are available in AF-C and AF-S. Can't a salesperson there help you?

Hey Jon. Yes, three of them tried. The focus point is indeed there but as soon as u switch the dial to movie it dissapears. Went into the AF setting and and set the AF point to show but still not there. They said there is no focus point once u are in movie mode but I doubt thats thats case. 

Thank you for trying. 

[jonpais]

4 minutes ago, Dean said:

Hey Jon. Yes, three of them tried. The focus point is indeed there but as soon as u switch the dial to movie it dissapears. Went into the AF setting and and set the AF point to show but still not there. They said there is no focus point once u are in movie mode but I doubt thats thats case. 

Thank you for trying. 

They are wrong, go into menu, Movie, Movie AF Mode, Area or Multi. Choose Area for the focus points. Done!

[Dean]

3 minutes ago, jonpais said:

They are wrong, go into menu, Movie, Movie AF Mode, Area or Multi. Choose Area for the focus points. Done!

Thanks !! I've left the shop now but will try again soon. 

Salespeople are always wrong !! 

[Trek of Joy]

21 hours ago, jonpais said:

Some very good advice. I haven't tried using the joystick while in AF-C yet, I'll have to give it a shot this afternoon. But Dean should know that AF-C can be a bit abrupt when it changes focus points on it's own - it isn't smooth like Sony, for example. Also, because several members here have also said they use shutter speed to control exposure when shooting video, I tried it out once or twice for myself - for static subjects, it works just fine, but for moving people and objects, it can introduce a stuttering motion. I used it once when a stylist was spraying hairspray on a customer and it looked pretty neat though. Just something to be aware of.  Finally, while I have only used the 50-140mm on sticks so far, that lens is probably one of my favorites. The build quality is also amazing. I believe it also has something like four AF motors, more than any other to the best of my knowledge.

The focus change is pretty quick with AF-c, but I'm not using it to pull focus, for that I'd use MF and just use the back button as a backup. You can slow tings down a bit in post if you don't cut it out. As far as SS,I'm using it a lot when just shooting tourist stuff, if I want a critical shot I'll put my $$20 Hoya vari-ND (surprisingly good, got it off eBay) on the lens and keep the SS at 1/50 or 1/60.

The 50-140 is awesome, much better than the similarly priced Sony 70-200/4 and on par with CaNikon's best. I wish I could have taken it with me, but the lighter 55-200 got the nod.

Cheers

[Taranis]

8 hours ago, Trek of Joy said:

The focus change is pretty quick with AF-c, but I'm not using it to pull focus, for that I'd use MF and just use the back button as a backup. You can slow tings down a bit in post if you don't cut it out. As far as SS,I'm using it a lot when just shooting tourist stuff, if I want a critical shot I'll put my $$20 Hoya vari-ND (surprisingly good, got it off eBay) on the lens and keep the SS at 1/50 or 1/60.

The 50-140 is awesome, much better than the similarly priced Sony 70-200/4 and on par with CaNikon's best. I wish I could have taken it with me, but the lighter 55-200 got the nod.

Cheers

How does the 55-200 compare to the 50-140 when it comes to 4K video?

[jonpais]

1 hour ago, Taranis said:

How does the 55-200 compare to the 50-140 when it comes to 4K video?

Apparently, it has the same extraordinary build quality of other Fuji lenses, superb sharpness, quiet autofocus and silly crazy optical image stabilization. B&H has some 155 customer reviews, averaging 4.5-5 stars.

[Taranis]

1 hour ago, jonpais said:

Apparently, it has the same extraordinary build quality of other Fuji lenses, superb sharpness, quiet autofocus and silly crazy optical image stabilization. B&H has some 155 customer reviews, averaging 4.5-5 stars.

Thanks, exactly what I needed to hear The price difference is huge and I think I can live without that constant f/2.8.