Questions on Single Colors

[sanveer]

How does one isolate one single color in Scenes, like the One in the Schindler's List among others? Also, can it be done on a DSLR, as well. Can one do it, In Camera, in a Panasonic Mirrorless, for instance, for example? It seems to exist on Smartphones (Samsung, in my case), where color channels can be selected, and one has a few options with the pre-installed firmware, itself. I may have read about it in one of the Reviews on the GX85/80/7ii, but I could be wrong. Would anyone with the GX85/80/7ii know?

Thanks in Advance
 

[sanveer]

There appears to a Column in the Menu for something called [Cross Process] with [Green Tone/ Blue Tone/ Yellow Tone/ Red Tone] on Page 89 of the Menu. Is that for Isolating that particular colour and leaving everything else in B&W?

https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/dscoi/DMC-GX80/EG_EC_EF_EB/guideENG.pdf

[Michael Coffee]

Done in post - colour keying such as with the qualifier in Resolve.. http://www.premiumbeat.com/blog/isolated-color-look-resolve/

There are a few methods to do this, but afaik no dslr can do it in camera - smartphones usually seem to be ahead with the built in filters and effects, but it seems dslr's are catching up..

 

7 minutes ago, sanveer said:

There appears to a Column in the Menu for something called [Cross Process] with [Green Tone/ Blue Tone/ Yellow Tone/ Red Tone] on Page 89 of the Menu. Is that for Isolating that particular colour and leaving everything else in B&W?

https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/dscoi/DMC-GX80/EG_EC_EF_EB/guideENG.pdf

Cross process is developing a film with the process from a different film

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross_processing

I think most of these filters only work for stills on the Panasonics

 

[sanveer]

12 minutes ago, Michael Coffee said:

Done in post - colour keying such as with the qualifier in Resolve.. http://www.premiumbeat.com/blog/isolated-color-look-resolve/

There are a few methods to do this, but afaik no dslr can do it in camera - smartphones usually seem to be ahead with the built in filters and effects, but it seems dslr's are catching up..

 

Cross process is developing a film with the process from a different film

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross_processing

I think most of these filters only work for stills on the Panasonics

 

Thank you so much for the reply. I guess, now I know what cross process would imply on the menu. Also, thanks for the PremiumBeat link, it is extremely informative. Maybe I will have to do it in post. Hopefully I won't have to use a RAW or ProRes camera, only for this, and the H.264 is sifficient. 

I am disappointed though, that DSLRs/ DSLMs don't have similar features to smartphones. Kindda sad. 

[Flynn]

Don't Nikon and Olympus do this in camera? Pretty sure Nikon does.

[mercer]

I think the G7 had a filter that did it. And I'm pretty sure it worked in video. But don't quote me, I never tried it. 

[Parker]

If you're a premiere user, the new lumetri color panel offers a quick and easy way to nail this kind of look, you can just click the little color buttons on the wheel and boost what you want, and pull everything else down to full desaturation. Sometimes it works better than others though, for example on the two examples posted there might be red in the skintones that sticks around a bit. It is very fast and simple to use though. 

[bunk]

12 hours ago, sanveer said:

 Would anyone with the GX85/80/7ii know?

One Point Color under Creative Control mode see pag 84 of the user manual.

https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/dscoi/DMC-GX80/EG_EC_EF_EB/guideENG.pdf

GH4 has it as well, never used it so can't tell how well it works.

[sanveer]

1 hour ago, bunk said:

One Point Color under Creative Control mode see pag 84 of the user manual.

https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/dscoi/DMC-GX80/EG_EC_EF_EB/guideENG.pdf

GH4 has it as well, never used it so can't tell how well it works.

Thank you so much. I was hoping to avoid work in post (especially since I was hoping to be use a Panasonic ILC). Don't like too much of post work, especially something that would take more time than necessary. 

Hopefully, this is good enough. Thanks for all the feedback. I am crossing my fingers now, and hoping this works out fine (and that the Red color in the video does not look like the Orb in the BlackMagic Cameras, where one color bleeds way too much).

[Bioskop.Inc]

For the best results, it should be done in post. You grey out the clothes or whatever & then reverse the image, so you end up keeping the colour of the object & everything else is B&W - colour keying, i think that's what it is called. Effects done by a camera are always a bad compromise - it won't look great.

If you're not good at CC'ing or want to learn, the best book/s out there is by "Alexis Van Hurkman - Color Correction Handbook" and the companion book is "Look Book Creative Grading Techniques". If you get both you are absolutely set to go - the books are easy to understand & you'll realise it's a lot easier and quicker to do things than you think (you do things once & then save the template in your NLE).

[sanveer]

6 minutes ago, Bioskop.Inc said:

For the best results, it should be done in post. You grey out the clothes or whatever & then reverse the image, so you end up keeping the colour of the object & everything else is B&W - colour keying, i think that's what it is called. Effects done by a camera are always a bad compromise - it won't look great.

If you're not good at CC'ing or want to learn, the best book/s out there is by "Alexis Van Hurkman - Color Correction Handbook" and the companion book is "Look Book Creative Grading Techniques". If you get both you are absolutely set to go - the books are easy to understand & you'll realise it's a lot easier and quicker to do things than you think (you do things once & then save the template in your NLE).

Thank you. I will definitely try and have a look at the books. I was only a little skeptical as to how a codec like H.264 may hold up in post.

[Bioskop.Inc]

1 hour ago, sanveer said:

Thank you. I will definitely try and have a look at the books. I was only a little skeptical as to how a codec like H.264 may hold up in post.

I used that technique quite a few years ago using FCP7 & the thing is you're keeping the colour of the Dress (for example) & then desaturating the rest of the footage, so you should be fine. If you look at the example you gave of the little girl, it doesn't look perfect - i suppose there is a different technique used with film stock.

The thing with H264 footage is, you can do one or two things, but as soon as you start doing major CC etc. it will fall apart. So nail the footage that you take (exposure, colour etc.) as close as you can, so you don't have to bother altering too much in post.

Those books are amazing, they cover everything you need to know about CC & grading - no trick or technique is left out. Really worth the money & you'll never need to buy another over priced plug-in again. The only thing i've bought since is Film Convert - I only use that as a final adjustment layer for the roll off effect on highlights/blacks, applying only their standard setting. If i'm really in a hurry, I'll use the Alexa preset with BM footage, since I hate their BM preset - horrible, really horrible.

I always use the rule of thumb of nailing everything as close as you can get in-camera, as it saves so much time in post.

The saying that you can always fix it in post, is just another way of saying you can't shoot properly.

[omega1978]

in premiere CC with the new lumetri is simple.

click on the color you will remove, expand the amount and then desatured this color.

[sanveer]

5 hours ago, Bioskop.Inc said:

I used that technique quite a few years ago using FCP7 & the thing is you're keeping the colour of the Dress (for example) & then desaturating the rest of the footage, so you should be fine. If you look at the example you gave of the little girl, it doesn't look perfect - i suppose there is a different technique used with film stock.

The thing with H264 footage is, you can do one or two things, but as soon as you start doing major CC etc. it will fall apart. So nail the footage that you take (exposure, colour etc.) as close as you can, so you don't have to bother altering too much in post.

Those books are amazing, they cover everything you need to know about CC & grading - no trick or technique is left out. Really worth the money & you'll never need to buy another over priced plug-in again. The only thing i've bought since is Film Convert - I only use that as a final adjustment layer for the roll off effect on highlights/blacks, applying only their standard setting. If i'm really in a hurry, I'll use the Alexa preset with BM footage, since I hate their BM preset - horrible, really horrible.

I always use the rule of thumb of nailing everything as close as you can get in-camera, as it saves so much time in post.

The saying that you can always fix it in post, is just another way of saying you can't shoot properly.

Hopefully the color isn't affected by night shots. I plan to shoot in low light, with bright lenses, and lower ISO, and (hopefully) very exact exposure. And, only a few scenes should have this effect. Let's see.

 

 

5 hours ago, omega1978 said:

in premiere CC with the new lumetri is simple.

click on the color you will remove, expand the amount and then desatured this color.

May try this too. Looks deceptively simple. Thanks

[Davey]

The single colour mode is available on cheap Panasonic cameras - used it on the TZ50 and FZ200 - but they will pick up hues of your chosen colour in objects that you cannot see with the naked eye. I would just keyframe and colour mask in FCPX for the best results, but make sure that the scene was only short with not much movement - otherwise, you could be talking many hours of work for ten seconds of visuals. There are plenty of plug-ins on the market if you don't want to faff about; just don't trust single point colour to work as you would expect it to in-camera.