Is a (V)ND filter a necessity for proper exposing?

[jase]

Currently I am using my camera in such a way, that I set the aperture by myself and let the camera take care about ISO (maxed to a certain value) as well as shutterspeed. For doing run & gun this works quite well, yet I would like to have more control about the exposure, e.g. being able to properly over and/or underexpose when I think this is necessary. Call me ignorant, but I dont really care about the correct shutter angle rule for proper motion cadence - I just dont notice it that much and my audience even less. 

 

So, i see two options:

1. Let the camera take care about setting the exposure as described above and use the exposure compensation feature to change exposure. By doing so, i am limited to 2-3 steps of over/underexposure, since the control doesnt allow much more. This is also rather limiting when setting Zebras to 70% and exposing for skin tones, for example. Also, in very bright sunlight even the highest shutterspeed is not enough to having a proper exposure, although this happens not very often due to the high shutter speed of the GX80.

2. Get a ND filter (in my case this would be a VND for sure), set the shutter speed fixed to a certain value and then use the ND to do a proper exposure. By doing so I dont need to use the exposure compensation dial anymore (is that right?) since i completely control exposure via the ND filter - at least in bright light cases, where a ND is necessary, otherwise I could simply not use it and still set aperture and shutter to a fixed value and letting the camera do the ISO setting (if i want it do so). However, at the beginning it would slow me down since i have to set the focus (MF) AND the correct exposure. Still, I think one can master this with some practice.

 

Am i missing something or worse, are my assumptions wrong?

 

[Inazuma]

No.2 is correct. You want to set your shutter speed, aperture and iso and use the VND to control the exposure. Only thing is when it gets dark you'll have to either bump up the iso or take the filter off.

[mercer]

I recommend picking up a cheap variable ND to try. If you like the workflow, then spend the money. You are getting pretty good results the way you are shooting now, so why spend too much money until you know for sure you like using a VND and want to change your method. For cheap VNDs I can highly recommend the Bower VND. It's cheap with very neutral rendering plus it is one of few VNDs (even the more expensive VNDs) that have hard stops on either end. I find it's also good to have a cheap one in your bag in case you're in adverse conditions... the beach or deep in the woods. If you're going to get sand on you're filter, it might as well be the cheaper one.

[freeman]

I think that the auto settings are helping you work quickly, but if you start practicing with manual exposure it will soon become second nature and you will gain more precise control over your image. Once you lock down your shutter angle (lets say to 1/50th) you start to lose the ability to control your light. A variable ND gives you one more tool to cut down the light coming into the camera. I would learn about shutter angle and use full manual exposure. Light is at the core of our art and a greater understanding of how and why we change and control it through our cameras definitely leads to more creative outcomes.

I haven't even bought an ND yet but I do use a circular polarizer to cut down light if I want to film something at a wide aperture in bright conditions. Also shutter angle is a subtle effect but you can use it to your advantage. I use between 1/30th and 1/60th of a second for different applications. I personally can't stand the staccato look a video shot at 1/100th or above gets especially when filming fast moving things. 

[Davey]

I use the Tiffen VND (two of them - 72mm and 52mm) for outdoors video using the a7sii and don't have to worry about anything but getting the shot. There are occasions when I get it wrong, though. Lost a few shots at a wedding recently because I overdid the turn and ended up with a lifeless, dull image (not as far as the X but definitely too much). There are the occasional colour casts to deal with as well, but I do not know how I managed to obtain them lol.

This is the first time that I have heard that shutter speed does not matter much. I always shoot 60fps at 1/125 and 30fps at 1/60 - you mean that I could go to 1/500 and see no difference? I tried that once with another camera (albeit a point and shoot panasonic) and ended up with horrific footage that was jerky.

 

[jax_rox]

Learning to expose manually is an important skill, and I'll guarantee you'll be much happier with your footage.

Testing ISO to find your happy 'sweet spots', and juggling that against your aperture is important. 1/50th Shutter speed mimics a 180 degree shutter, so unless you're after different motion cadences, I wouldn't stray from that.

Your aperture doesn't need to be set. You can certainly change it to adjust your exposure. It obviously affects your DOF, but it doesn't affect noise like changing your ISO does. 

An ND allows you to keep your aperture set, ensuring a consistency of DOF. Personally, I'd recommend learning to expose fully manually before you grab a vari-ND (it will just help you get your head around what you're doing), but NDs can be very helpful.

9 hours ago, Davey said:

This is the first time that I have heard that shutter speed does not matter much. I always shoot 60fps at 1/125 and 30fps at 1/60 - you mean that I could go to 1/500 and see no difference? I tried that once with another camera (albeit a point and shoot panasonic) and ended up with horrific footage that was jerky.

Changing shutter speed will give you different looking motion. 1/50th mimics a 180 degree shutter at 25fps, 1/48th at 24fps (1/50th is the closest you'll get to 1/48th on most consumer cams), 1/60th at 30fps and 1/120th at 60fps. etc. Lowering your shutter speed will make your motion blurrier, raising it will make it 'choppier'.

You can also encounter light strobing with different shutter speeds.

[maxmizer]

yes, always necessary.

Often adds light with reflectors to get the desired setting.

Example:

http://www.zacuto.com/zvideo/RGCSO-TechnicalCameraDocumentation-V1.pdf

[jase]

Thanks for your valuable comments, much appreciated!

I think I will go down the path that @mercer has suggested: by a cheap one, see if it fits my style and then upgrade eventually.

10 hours ago, Davey said:

I use the Tiffen VND (two of them - 72mm and 52mm) for outdoors video using the a7sii and don't have to worry about anything but getting the shot. There are occasions when I get it wrong, though. Lost a few shots at a wedding recently because I overdid the turn and ended up with a lifeless, dull image (not as far as the X but definitely too much). There are the occasional colour casts to deal with as well, but I do not know how I managed to obtain them lol.

Out of curiosity: why did that happen? I mean if you have Zebras at 100% switched on and use the ND to get the right exposure although wanting a thin DOF, then this should be easily avoided or do I miss something?

10 hours ago, Davey said:

This is the first time that I have heard that shutter speed does not matter much. I always shoot 60fps at 1/125 and 30fps at 1/60 - you mean that I could go to 1/500 and see no difference? I tried that once with another camera (albeit a point and shoot panasonic) and ended up with horrific footage that was jerky.

Well, feel free to check my stuff on vimeo (see signature) - at least i have a hard time finding something that looks horrific.

[Justin Bacle]

I usually set my camera to like 800 ISO, 180° shutter and then use a variable ND Filter and the clickless aperture of the lens to choose the exposure and depth of field I want.
I suggest getting a cheap like 20$ Variable ND filter for testing. They are usually not that bad until you start having very brights objects (i.e. the sun), then you'll get weird internal reflections. But it is still great for $20 !

[mercer]

@jase since VNDs aren't actual NDs, but 2 polarizer you can get some funky effects now and then. Most VNDs continue to rotate past maximum where that dreaded X pattern occurs when you're in no man's land until you return back to minimum. This is why I only use VNDs that have the hard stops on either end.