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Panasonic G85 review - is there any need to get an Olympus E-M1 Mark II for video?


Andrew Reid
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3 hours ago, tomsemiterrific said:

I had all stabilization methods on. It's really amazing to have the in-camera stabilization for the FD lenses with a speed booster.

Yep, but sometimes you get that wobbling effect like it was stabilized with warp stabilizer (when E-Stabilization is activated). 

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2 hours ago, Bizz said:

Yep, but sometimes you get that wobbling effect like it was stabilized with warp stabilizer (when E-Stabilization is activated). 

Don't know about warp stabilizer....but have you updated your firmware past 1.0? Stabilization was crap until I updated. I don't think you can get 1.1 any more, but just a few days ago they introduced 1.2, which included 1.1--so no biggie.  Anyway I updated and it made a enormous difference.

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21 hours ago, tomsemiterrific said:

Put his short video together. All hand held using third party lenses, metabones speed booster, and FD speed booster, shot in low light situations near sunset, holding ISO to 200 in every clip.

Great video, damnit I wish the GH5 was a Camcorder Factor, I would pay 3k for that! Get off the dumbass mirrorless form factor for your video cameras Panasonic that is affordable! Not everyone can afford a Varicam!

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19 minutes ago, webrunner5 said:

Great video, damnit I wish the GH5 was a Camcorder Factor, I would pay 3k for that! Get off the dumbass mirrorless form factor for your video cameras Panasonic that is affordable! Not everyone can afford a Varicam!

You're interested in the cine cam/camcorder form factor?

Have you seen this video? It was shot by Martin Walgreens with a high end Panny camcorder.

 

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My current setup for the perfect dynamic range , profile natural +1, -5 , -5 , -2(-3) 

light shadows 0/0  !!!  - Any other setting is causing the poor skin tone !

and what is important is i.Dynamic, does nothing to skin tone, I set i.Dynamic standard or high.

This is the best setting for me, at the G80, GH4 and LX100

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11 hours ago, tonysss said:

My current setup for the perfect dynamic range , profile natural +1, -5 , -5 , -2(-3) 

light shadows 0/0  !!!  - Any other setting is causing the poor skin tone !

and what is important is i.Dynamic, does nothing to skin tone, I set i.Dynamic standard or high.

This is the best setting for me, at the G80, GH4 and LX100

I guess this is what is considered the ULTIMATE look for wedding photography, but I find the skin tones in your video flat, washed out and rather cartoonish!!! (exclamation points and caps added for emphasis, since nobody would understand what I'm saying without them).

Screen Shot 2017-02-20 at 3.49.14 PM.png

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yes, this is exactly the wrong settings, high -3 (without iDynamic) with the adjusted contrast -5 !!
and very inconvenient LED lighting the room with a narrow light spectrum radiation then everyone look as waxy :-)

--------

This printscreen 1080p is setting: natural +1,-5,-5,-2 , iDynamic standard ,WB auto ISO 1600

skin tone is perfect

Snímek obrazovky 2017-02-20 v 10.39.00.png

Snímek obrazovky 2017-02-20 v 10.37.54.png

Snímek obrazovky 2017-02-20 v 10.39.14.png

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5 hours ago, tonysss said:

yes, this is exactly the wrong settings, high -3 (without iDynamic) with the adjusted contrast -5 !!
and very inconvenient LED lighting the room with a narrow light spectrum radiation then everyone look as waxy :-)

--------

This printscreen 1080p is setting: natural +1,-5,-5,-2 , iDynamic standard ,WB auto ISO 1600

skin tone is perfect

Snímek obrazovky 2017-02-20 v 10.39.00.png

Snímek obrazovky 2017-02-20 v 10.37.54.png

Snímek obrazovky 2017-02-20 v 10.39.14.png

why do you need high dynamic range settings in a low dynamic range setting like this ? All you are doing is destroying the skin tones with all these adjustments

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My knowledge is , any setting Highlight to negative , destroying the skin tones !! ,and + shadows, increasing the amount of noise.

iDynamic set to high, doing nothing negative skin tone. 

My previous Sony cameras behaved completely differently. Panasonic needs slight underexposure, overexpose also destroys skin tone.

 

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1 minute ago, Don Kotlos said:

Stage lighting often creates very high contrasts requiring higher dynamic range settings. 

all you have to do is underexpose with panasonic cameras. All picture profiles have 10 stops of dr except cinellike d which has around 11. All negative contrast settings do is destroy midtone contrast more than it does recover highlights in high contrast situations like stage lighting. I shoot events at default settings except -5 contrast and sharpness

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1 minute ago, kidzrevil said:

all you have to do is underexpose with panasonic cameras. All picture profiles have 10 stops of dr except cinellike d which has around 11. All negative contrast settings do is destroy midtone contrast more than it does recover highlights in high contrast situations like stage lighting. I shoot events at default settings except -5 contrast and sharpness

I don't know what that contrast setting does to the image, but underexposing a very high contrast scene in order to protect the highlights can irreversibly push everything into the noisy shadows. 

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4 hours ago, Don Kotlos said:

I don't know what that contrast setting does to the image, but underexposing a very high contrast scene in order to protect the highlights can irreversibly push everything into the noisy shadows. 

Definitely try experimenting with it for yourself with a Panasonic camera. The IQ & noise from only 2/3 of a stop underexposure is better than completely destroying the midtone information with negative contrast. Try it, you'll be amazed.

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6 hours ago, kidzrevil said:

all you have to do is underexpose with panasonic cameras. All picture profiles have 10 stops of dr except cinellike d which has around 11. All negative contrast settings do is destroy midtone contrast more than it does recover highlights in high contrast situations like stage lighting. I shoot events at default settings except -5 contrast and sharpness

Am I reading this correctly - you shoot at -5 Contrast? ?

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