richg101 Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Hey Julian. I have various sources. I have bought a few large lots from a supplier I found in the former USSR, and bought single units too. It depends where I find the right ones. Certain serial numbers are better donors than others. It's sad how cheap the standard helios lenses actually sell for on ebay, considering just how wonderful they are - actually I prefer to the original Biotar. Only due to the high numbers available + the lack of perceived value is a project like this viable. The low price for the donor parts allows for more time and effort to be spent in the workshop, and for covering the quite large hourly rate of the laser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy lee Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 this all looks really interesting please tell us more what are the circular masks for? how do you mount them etc? how do you get different coloured flares etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richg101 Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 Hey Andy.. This vid should explain what the circular masks do... http://vimeo.com/61341672 Hans Punk and dahlfors 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgharding Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Do the masks replace the aperture ring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richg101 Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 Indeed. so you can choose an aperture that suits best your shooting technique. examples:- using a 1.5x anamorphot + f2.8 1.5x oval aperture Flare Factory 58 you end up with very convincing 2x ovals. using a 2x oval f5.6 Flare Factory 58 on a Century or LA7200 creates a very convincing 2x look a bit like lomo IMO. using a f2.8 1.5x oval aperture Flare Factory 58 on its own and cropping will allow you to intercut between stuff shot with true 1.5x anamorphots + standard helios for stuff like ultra close ups or shots that need an easier focus pull from a prime lens. Obviously the smaller the aperture, the more it has an effect on the overall flare characeristics. Ie. a f5.6 2x oval wont be as low contrast as a standard variable f2-f16 round aperture http://vimeo.com/61360303 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBarlow Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Few years back, I was messing around with the concept of a variable oval aperture to replace the one inside say, a Helios 44. Its a tricky technical problem , but I did manage to come up with a proof of concept (see pics) I am putting it out there if anyone wants to run with it, there is more work to do obviously, but its a start Andrew Reid and richg101 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richg101 Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 Very clever indeed John. Bypass most of the blades so four can be shaped accordingly. I played with the idea of a variable aperture but kept away because of the complexity. also, due to the variation of lens adaptors (some rotate more than others) the aperture mechanism would need to have a orientation adjustment to ensure the aperture was always vertical. I think since this is effectively an 'effects lens' concept most users of a custom aperture such as an oval will want the effect as prominent as possible - the f2.8 1.5x is superb on the Iscorama 1.5x and takes the image a little more similar to the proper oval bokeh from a 2x anamorphot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBarlow Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 As I said it was something I did a few years back on a long train journey to keep me amused. I had thought of just two blades (crescent shaped), but I didnt like the pointy tops and bottoms. For sure, once the ideal blade shape is found - just stamp them out from blue metal shim. I take your point about wide open usage for effect, however my interest was using spherics in a follow focus situation where even small aperture reflection can be made to look scopish and is more practical especially if you have dual focus 2x scopes. I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richg101 Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 Lenses now available..http://www.etsy.com/shop/DogSchidtOptiks Priced with a camera mount of your choice. Showreel of clips:- vimeo.com/61688656 See more footage:- vimeo.com/meltingbloke/albums Check our options PDF document:- http://dl.dropbox.com/u/85427217/Flare_Factory_58_Options_ETSY.pdf Info Sheet:- http://dl.dropbox.com/u/85427217/Flare_Factory_58_Info_PDF.pdf FAQ Sheet:- http://dl.dropbox.com/u/85427217/Flare_Factory_58_FAQ.pdf Also Available in Arri PL, Mondo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dahlfors Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 richg101: Haha - unexpected to experience the combination of Mazzy Star, anamorphics and cats... richg101 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim McC Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 I have the Iscorama Cinegon, which usually produces red or reddish flares. I'm wondering which color Flare Factory would be best paired with that... Blue to lean toward the more traditional flare color? Or would this make an odd combination? Better to go red all the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richg101 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 I have the Iscorama Cinegon, which usually produces red or reddish flares. I'm wondering which color Flare Factory would be best paired with that... Blue to lean toward the more traditional flare color? Or would this make an odd combination? Better to go red all the way? Hi Man. Personally I feel matching it with an Amber / Orange tint is a nice move. Or non tinted would also be a nice option. Going very low contrast for use on iscorama's or other anamorphics with a bit of length works amazingly because the anamorphot acts like a hood/shade, toning down the amount of ambient light and flares/low contrast is more dependent on if a light source is in frame. When you do get some bright light source in frame the whole thing comes alive, and does a good job of visually gluing the qualities of the anamorphot to the taking lens. looks more integrated if you know what I mean. Blue/green tends to work best with the Century and other more modern attachments which tend to have a blue horizontal flare. The tints from the Flare Factory won't change the colour of flares from your anamorphic attachment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommykristensen Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 That matte black one looks so unbelievable cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuickHitRecord Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 I've ordered one of these bad boys in matte black. Serial #05. It feels like joining an elite club. If you've been thinking about getting one, better order it soon before Andrew writes an article! richg101 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richg101 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share Posted March 15, 2013 Thanks for your order Nick.:) And welcome to the club... The exclusive club..... 'Club Dog Schidt' Mondo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommykristensen Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 Is the untinted one a "regular" helios - no change to the glass - but with a super cool rehousing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richg101 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share Posted March 15, 2013 Is the untinted one a "regular" helios - no change to the glass - but with a super cool rehousing? it depends on the other options chosen. but in most cases untinted will look significantly different to a normal helios. a standard helios will have a natural slight hue to flares, such as a blue or amber hue to the orbs (depending on age of the helios 44), while an untinted flare factory will instead have a clear hue to the orbs which will be the same colour to the light source. the removal of the original optical coatings on the elements is a contributing factor to some of the contrast, glow and flare prominence. But no single option alone contributes to a particular look as certain options can counteract or enhance others. naturally if someone asks for a quasi f1.5 version (which have very low contrast even when set to 'low' contrast) It would be a little crazy to also request a 'stupid' contrast level. Whereas, selecting a variable f2-f16 standard aperture and a 'stupid' contrast level, non tinted etc gives the user the option to tone down the amount of contrast loss by stopping down a bit. An modern multi coated anamorphot with deep blue, modern looking flares used with a FF58 'quasi f1.5', non tinted, 'stupid' contrast level for the taking lens will result in an image a lot less clinical, with the orbs created by the flare factory being influenced by the colour of the anamorphots flares alongside the colour of the light source. This as a result creates a more integrated look with the flares from both the anamorphot and the flare factory becoming more as one with each other. The addition of more internal reflection within the taking lens also further boosts the aesthetic and colour cast created by the flares of the MC anamorphot. And due to the less prone flaring of an mc anamorphot, and its length applying a lens hood effect on the very flare prone flare factory you will have a lot more controlled flaring which is more dependent on a bright light source being in frame to activate the flaring properties.. Hope this helps / makes sense:) fyi. if someone wanted a standard helios 44 with no change in optical properties, but freshened up on the outside, we can do this. just let us know. also, we can leave elements as standard and replace aperture to oval etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBarlow Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 Richard, Off topic but.... What method are you using to remove the coatings. I have some scope elements that need to have the coatings taken off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommykristensen Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 I think i'm interested, but isn't sure what lens to pick... You wouldn't by any chance be working on a video - ungraded, same scenes, with the different lenses - with text added - so that is possible to see whats what, and the effect of the different tints or untinted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eternal Noob Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Hi, what would be the cost of getting a re-cased Helios, no flare modifications or anything, in a Micro Four Thirds mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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