GH3 ISO Increment

[Jenkly]

Here is a little tutorial for getting some extra ISO options on the GH3.  It gives you two more ISO values between the ones that came preset with firmware 1.0.  You just have to enable them.  I'm not sure how widely known this trick is. I keep seeing ISO tests showing off ISO 200, ISO 400...etc. and nothing between.  So, I hope this helps!

 

https://vimeo.com/62399018

[Mondo]

Found this out as well. Don't know they didn't just implement this as default from the start in video mode.

[Jenkly]

Found this out as well. Don't know they didn't just implement this as default from the start in video mode.

 

I'm not sure either.  I'd eventually like to compare them to see if the quality is consistent.

[AaronChicago]

Nice tip. Thank you.

[Wit]

Thank you for this video Kyle! 
Tonight I planned to learn something about the ISO, Shutter speed, Aperture triangle so good timed video! Are you making some trial videos with the lower ISO as well?

 

I'm just getting through a DSLR Video Tips tutorial by Richard Harrington and Robbie Carman on Lynda.com and they explained to do a lens cap on video with all the different Iso's to see how your camera behaves in terms of noise and grain. They say even the same cameras can differ on this field.

[Jenkly]

Thank you for this video Kyle! 
Tonight I planned to learn something about the ISO, Shutter speed, Aperture triangle so good timed video! Are you making some trial videos with the lower ISO as well?

 

I'm just getting through a DSLR Video Tips tutorial by Richard Harrington and Robbie Carman on Lynda.com and they explained to do a lens cap on video with all the different Iso's to see how your camera behaves in terms of noise and grain. They say even the same cameras can differ on this field.

 

I did a lens cap test.  (actually made a video too)  The noise/grain has a very consistent ascent.  I'm not sure how accurate these tests are but I remember watching one where they used the GH2.  This seems a bit more consistent.

I hope I understood you correctly when you asked about trial videos at a lower ISO.  I know I already posted this response on Vimeo but I just wanted to reiterate it in case anyone else was wondering.  The Extended ISO does not seem to translate to video, only pictures.  But the ISO Increments option will get you more ISO between 200 and 6400.

 

Thanks for the response!  I've been watching your videos.  Wonderful!

[Wit]

Thank you - in a way it is funny we're both handling the same subject at the same time. And we could reinforce each other like this. Here and on Vimeo. I simply love this forum! Will watch your ISO vids on Vimeo but I guess it's better to go outside and do some more test shooting myself now I nearly know and understand what all the handels are for.  ;)

[Wit]

Yesterday I shot with a guy who could go down to 100 on his canon. Was amazed to see his effects. Why can't we on the Pana?

I still have difficlties handeling the light on my camera. Is the +/- buttom on the right the one to play with for GH3 people specially when shooting a shallow dept of field? I won't work in Manual though.

[/p/]

Yesterday I shot with a guy who could go down to 100 on his canon. Was amazed to see his effects. Why can't we on the Pana?

I still have difficlties handeling the light on my camera. Is the +/- buttom on the right the one to play with for GH3 people specially when shooting a shallow dept of field? I won't work in Manual though.

 

The + and - symbols refer to exposure compensation, you should try and stick to manual as the aperture/shutter priority modes are better suited to photographers.. When shooting in aperture priority the camera lets you set the aperture and the camera automatically sets the shutter speed to get correct exposure, in shutter priority the camera lets you set the shutter speed and the camera will set the aperture to get correct exposure.

 

The way this works with the + and - is that say it looks something like this -.....^.....+ (something like that lol) lets call that the "exposure bar" normally you will have a small mark that indicates where you are on that bar, if the mark is in the middle of the bar that means.... When you are shooting in aperture priority the camera will automatically change the shutter speed to get correct exposure (if the mark is in the middle of the bar) if you are in shutter priority it will let you set the shutter speed then it will adjust the aperture itself to get correct exposure. The middle of the bar represents correct exposure, the + represents overexposure (making it brighter) and the - underexposure (making it darker. In shutter priority you could set your shutter to 1/50th and then the camera will take over the aperture and adjust it to whatever point you have indicated on the bar (if you have the mark in the middle it will try and set the exposure to what it thinks is "correct exposure) if you have it down in the - it will adjust it that so your picture looks darker and + brighter.

 

This works as photographers as they don't really have to worry as much about changing light, a lot of wedding photographers will use aperture priority, set their aperture to f/2 or f/2.8 or something similar and then let the camera pick the shutter speed for correct exposure and not have to worry about it, if it's tricky lighting and the pictures look a bit dark instead of setting it to manual they can just increase the exposure compensation (or decrease if they want it darker) too help expose the shot.

 

This can also work for getting a shallow depth of field if you are shooting in shutter priority and adjusting your exposure with exposure comp, however there is really no benefit using aperture/shutter priority for video, once you learn how aperture works you will know how to get a shallow depth of field by controlling aperture yourself.

 

the little bar -.....^.....+ will still be there in manual mode, and it still refers to your exposure but it will not adjust anything to help you get correct exposure, if you have set it and the camera thinks it's too bright it will be in the + area and if it's too dark the - area if it thinks you have a correct exposure it will be in the middle, the camera can be tricked though (like if your inside and pointing the camera at someone infront of a window the camera will more often than not say correct exposure is for outside not inside (making the person inside too dark). Learn to read the histogram, it's your best friend.