woopax Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 I'm sure a lot of anamorphic shooters are asking themselves those questions as well: 1. working with a ND filter - should i place the filter in front of the anamorphic, or is it just as good to place it between the taking and the anamorphic lens? (can be more practical most of the time) 2. would you recommend to use a taking lens which is not multi coated, in order to keep stronger flares? Would be happy to hear your thoughts, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Cunningham Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 You shouldn't put anything between the anamorphic and your taking lens. Filters go up front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBarlow Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Hi Otto, I place mine between lenses, but I find it does not matter where you place them. In front, between lenses or you can even have them........... inside your camera :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woopax Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 So i have two different opinions so far...any more ideas? And what about my second question - multi coated taking lens- does it make any difference flaring wise? Thanks people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim McC Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Yes, the taking lens will affect the flaring of your anamorphic. Best to avoid MC lenses if you want flares. Old Takumar lenses produce the most dramatic flares of all the brands I've tested... but unfortunately, they are not really sturdy enough to support an anamorphic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woopax Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 Alright , important to know...thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderbanks Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Yes, the taking lens will affect the flaring of your anamorphic. Best to avoid MC lenses if you want flares. Old Takumar lenses produce the most dramatic flares of all the brands I've tested... but unfortunately, they are not really sturdy enough to support an anamorphic. Get a rail setup with a lens support and you'll be fine. I have used a variable ND filter for some outdoor anamorphic shots. I put the filter between the anamorphic lens and the taking lens. It works out well because I can adjust the filter to get proper exposure, then when I mount the anamorphic to the filter ring of the ND filter, I can fine tune the alignment of the anamorphic. Great for static shots..probably not so great if you're on the move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woopax Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 Get a rail setup with a lens support and you'll be fine. I have used a variable ND filter for some outdoor anamorphic shots. I put the filter between the anamorphic lens and the taking lens. It works out well because I can adjust the filter to get proper exposure, then when I mount the anamorphic to the filter ring of the ND filter, I can fine tune the alignment of the anamorphic. Great for static shots..probably not so great if you're on the move. alright, that's an interesting point with the variable ND filter. I actually dont like when things can move around in the system...but maybe with a fixed ND it can be a way to go. Thanks for you comment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Stick it on the front of the anamorphic. The distance between the front glass of your receiving lens and the back of the anamorphic needs to be as short as possible. Sticking an ND in there would mean the anamorphic and taking lens are farther apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBarlow Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Putting any filter in front of the scope will affect flare performance. If the front of the scope is concave, it helps to produce flares from off camera light sources. So if you put a flat glass filter in front of that than the off camera light will be reflected and reduce the flare intensity or stop them completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woopax Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 Stick it on the front of the anamorphic. The distance between the front glass of your receiving lens and the back of the anamorphic needs to be as short as possible. Sticking an ND in there would mean the anamorphic and taking lens are farther apart. I see what you're saying, and in addition it really makes more sense using a rotating filter in the front. The only problem is, since in most of the anamorphic adapters there is no filter thread, you really need rails and a matte box and i'm not so excited about it yet. keeping things small is sometimes more efficient, especially when using a dslr light steadycam or such things. Putting any filter in front of the scope will affect flare performance. If the front of the scope is concave, it helps to produce flares from off camera light sources. So if you put a flat glass filter in front of that than the off camera light will be reflected and reduce the flare intensity or stop them completely. Sound also very true. so would say - if you want flares - ND in the middle. if you don't care about flares (also if for individual shots) ND in the front. I think i'll mainly go for a middle ND than but maybe better a fixed one, which i can replace. a bit of a hassle to change filters but probably no choice to avoid rotating system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christrad Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 "Old Takumar lenses produce the most dramatic flares of all the brands I've tested... but unfortunately, they are not really sturdy enough to support an anamorphic." I use Takumar 80mm 1.8, 105mm 2.5 and 135mm 2.5 with a Sankor 16D on 5D MarkII and never had any problem with this configuration. So I wonder why you said that they're not sturdy enough ? Takumar are old lenses in metal and look pretty sturdy in my opinion... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy lee Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 I always put the ND on the taking lens not on the front of the anamorphic as it does kill flare - which I want! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucian Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Can anyone reccomend a reasonable priced ND fixed or variable for use on m42 lenses, the ones i have looked at seemed super pricey.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 ND in the middle would make sense for all ya'll's big ass projection lenses mounted on rods. Still, optic to optic coupling should be as tight as possible IMHO. Sean Cunningham 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Can anyone reccomend a reasonable priced ND fixed or variable for use on m42 lenses, the ones i have looked at seemed super pricey.... L.C.W vari-nd Dandy stuff, adds a bit of contrast, but all will unless you buy one for a million-billion bucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy lee Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 These Jacobs NDs are made buy Cokin so superb quality they make most sizes from 46mm to 72mm I have tested them side by side , Ive been using these for the past year on jobs they are great they are slimmer than most nds so ideal for use with anamorphic taking lenses http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jacobs-ND4-Super-slim-Neutral-Density-filter-72mm-for-Sigma-Leica-Zeiss-NEW-PRO-/110964643698?pt=UK_CamerasPhoto_CameraAccessories_CameraLensesFilters_JN&hash=item19d6021772 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucian Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Ben, are you using lcw nd with m42 lenses? the lowest they make is 52mm. Are you using that and stepping down to 42mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tito Ferradans Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Luke, the front thread has nothing to do with the 42mm of M42. That's the rear size, mount name. :D The front sizes are different. If you stick to russian glass (Mir, Helios, Jupiter and Tair), the three first lenses have a 49mm thread, and the Tair has a 55mm thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucian Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Thanks tferrdans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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