Juxx989 Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 I was tweaking color settings and reading old posts here about how people setup their nx-1s... and realized I still dont fully understand what master black level does... and came across this vid on google... I really never tried this before... I would make changes write down on some paper the settings and shot it like a clap board and import several tests into editor... but I could have been doing it live! Here is another one It sounded like he was saying you can check out a video in editor and if you like the settings you can copy it back to the memory card and automatically force the NX-1 to change the cameras settings to it? Im a little foggy on this one (but I have been up for 30 hours) That is all.... Marco Tecno 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnewxcv Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I still have no real idea what master black level does. I've left it at 0. :shrug: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parker Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 1 hour ago, mnewxcv said: I still have no real idea what master black level does. I've left it at 0. :shrug: I mean you can see what right what it does... Raises your blacks/shadows in camera, so you can expose more for highlights and still maintain more shadow detail than you otherwise would with a lower black level. Granted I've never tested the benefit of shooting in camera and just raising shadows a touch in post, but I always shoot with mine between 7 and 15, I think it makes a pretty big difference. Juxx989 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnewxcv Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I guess I just don't see the advantage over raising blacks in post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juxx989 Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 2 hours ago, Parker said: Raises your blacks/shadows in camera, so you can expose more for highlights and still maintain more shadow detail than you otherwise would with a lower black level. Granted I've never tested the benefit of shooting in camera and just raising shadows a touch in post, but I always shoot with mine between 7 and 15, I think it makes a pretty big difference. @Parker Yeah for the first time in almost 2 years I just put it up to master black +15 ¯\_(ツ)_/¯¯ it seems to be alot more flexible in Resolve... on what I shot at least basically monochrome here .. I tried it on gamma DR, -3 cont,-3. 0-255, then I dropped good ol' eoshd NX Log its kinda good you say +7 and +15 so Id assume in low light you would want it high as possible? what is the factor that makes you choose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inazuma Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Wow Juxx, cant believe you'd been doing it without live preview! Must have been a real pain. About Black Master Pedestal.. I have tested it and found it doesn't actually bring out shadow detail at all. It just crushes the darker end of the tonal range into a higher value. So you actually have less to work with! Juxx989 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juxx989 Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 @Inazuma Hey your the new blood here would love to hear your take on it. What are your fav settings? I would like the most dr possible to work work with.. I'm really not too fond of acquisition the fun for me is post.... The baked in way is not for me. It feels very easy to use offset in resolve and push everything towards black. Also have been studying still frames from movie trailers and James miller shots and many times the whites ain't white they are pushed almost completely into the mids and tinted. Please let me know you solutions. Inazuma 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inazuma Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 @Juxx989 Hey! So far I think my favourite is Vivid with -1 saturation and -2 contrast, along with 0.98 Green and Blue, sharpness at -10. If I'm in need of more dynamic range I switch to Gamma DR with -5 contrast and +1 saturation. I don't think that 0.95 on green is good as it makes skin too red and also makes whites look red too. I've shot some side by side footage with my Fujifilm X-T2. Will be posting over the weekend Parker, Kisaha and Marco Tecno 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Tecno Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 I agree, it's very interesting to hear from someone approaching the system just now, yet experienced like you. Inazuma 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parker Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 On 5/12/2017 at 9:00 AM, Inazuma said: @Juxx989 Hey! So far I think my favourite is Vivid with -1 saturation and -2 contrast, along with 0.98 Green and Blue, sharpness at -10. If I'm in need of more dynamic range I switch to Gamma DR with -5 contrast and +1 saturation. I don't think that 0.95 on green is good as it makes skin too red and also makes whites look red too. I've shot some side by side footage with my Fujifilm X-T2. Will be posting over the weekend I used your settings today, been getting a little bit bored by my regular ones and wanted to try something different for the bridal shoot I shot today, awesome look right out of camera! My previous settings were very hard to match between my NX1 and NX500, so hopefully it'll be nice in post that I shot them both with consistent settings across the board today. Thanks for sharing! Inazuma 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inazuma Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 @Marco Tecno Experienced? Maybe. Obsessed? Definitely :p I spend waaay too much time tinkering with settings and colour grading. @Parker You're welcome. I think it looks great straight out of the camera too, although I have created a few neutral-look LUTs to further improve things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Tecno Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 What do you think of andrew's settings? I'm using those, but I'm not very experienced in video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inazuma Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 3 hours ago, Marco Tecno said: What do you think of andrew's settings? I'm using those, but I'm not very experienced in video. I don't have them :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Galli Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 yea what are the settings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESGI Media Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 On 5/11/2017 at 11:46 PM, Juxx989 said: I was tweaking color settings and reading old posts here about how people setup their nx-1s... and realized I still dont fully understand what master black level does... and came across this vid on google... I really never tried this before... I would make changes write down on some paper the settings and shot it like a clap board and import several tests into editor... but I could have been doing it live! Here is another one It sounded like he was saying you can check out a video in editor and if you like the settings you can copy it back to the memory card and automatically force the NX-1 to change the cameras settings to it? Im a little foggy on this one (but I have been up for 30 hours) That is all.... Hi there, The Video Metadata clip is regarding the extraction of ISO, Aperture, Shutter speed etc data from the internally recorded video. Although the NX1 doesn't export it with the video file (stupid) if you playback the file in camera and then take a JPEG frame grab (internally) if will pull some exif data with it, so you can remember what settings you used for the shot. Regards. Kisaha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMGJohn Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 The master black levels just make the black levels more black or more grey, at 0 it should be 0-255 and at +15 it should be 15-255 and -15-255 etc. Crushing your blacks make no sense though unless you want a specific look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kisaha Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 what is the point of having negative black? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BopBill Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 18 hours ago, Kisaha said: what is the point of having negative black? I was using Master black level -8 when I shot with DR Gamma. Luminance 16-235. I was after better dynamic range in high lights and baked in colors same time. The problem was that the colors where not strong enough. High light dynamic range was better. Now I use Normal gamma. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kisaha Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 2 hours ago, BopBill said: I was using Master black level -8 when I shot with DR Gamma. Luminance 16-235. I was after better dynamic range in high lights and baked in colors same time. The problem was that the colors where not strong enough. High light dynamic range was better. Now I use Normal gamma. Yes, but how it affected your image? I am asking, because seriously I can't really comprehend the master black metering. What people think about the best Master Black setting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BopBill Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 2 hours ago, Kisaha said: Yes, but how it affected your image? I am asking, because seriously I can't really comprehend the master black metering. What people think about the best Master Black setting? I am not an expert, only experimenting what I could get. But with DR Gamma it is possible to go negative values without crushing blacks. But I quess not much sense if you are going to do post adjustment to the image. The image was close to what I get with normal gamma. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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