Inean Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 http://www.ebay.com/...d=370791912272 In the description say "c-m43/nex adapter" :unsure: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluxo Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 I belive that's a crop of 1.3 - 1.4 of the Micro4/3rds so it's roughly a crop factor of 3 of full frame. This is what I thought from what I've read and seen online. Struggling to find any decent manual aperture ringed lenses between 8 and 24, (I have a Samyang 14mm), I would have liked a wide angle zoom like the Tokina 11 - 16 or the Sigma 8 - 16 but with them not having manual aperture rings you can't use them effectively with the BMPCC. Getting a good range of lenses for the BMPCC may be difficult, especially on a budget. I belive that's a crop of 1.3 - 1.4 of the Micro4/3rds so it's roughly a crop factor of 3 of full frame. This is what I thought from what I've read and seen online. Struggling to find any decent manual aperture ringed lenses between 8 and 24, (I have a Samyang 14mm), I would have liked a wide angle zoom like the Tokina 11 - 16 or the Sigma 8 - 16 but with them not having manual aperture rings you can't use them effectively with the BMPCC. Getting a good range of lenses for the BMPCC may be difficult, especially on a budget. hell0 matt, i think If you get the tokina 11-16mm 2.8 from nikon you can get this nikon g to micro 4/3 With Lock / Open Aperture Control Ring to set the designed aperture. any one has it? and those it work with all the nikon lenses? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220742889826?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pulp_writer Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 I guess what I'm getting at is that for wide angle lens' adapter manufacturing quality does start to matter. With a small sensor wide lens' are very intolerant of back focus errors. The B&H Angenieux 10mm f1.8 is a fantastic lens. They cost a fortune when they were new. The lack of focus wide open in the test shot back in post #88 could well be down to incorrect flange depth. I put more faith in Pierre Angenieux than I do in a $10 C mount adapter! I don't have a C to M43 to test this but I do have a cheapo ebay C to Nikon 1 adapter for my J1. I'll put my Ang 10mm on my J1 and check it against a focus chart and see. Looking forward to your video. I must admit that my Angenieux 10mm is not in perfect shape. I used it on two different c-mount adapters (Metabones and Hassendo), both times with the same results, though they work very well with my other c lenses. I would be great if this lens was usable, as it really a convenient one to have, and quite a number are for sale at reasonable prices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 I must admit that my Angenieux 10mm is not in perfect shape. I used it on two different c-mount adapters (Metabones and Hassendo), both times with the same results, though they work very well with my other c lenses. My Metabones C-M43 adapter arrived today but I've only had 20 minutes to try it out. What I did discover with my Angenieux 10mm is that if I tighten the lens into place I can't achieve good focus. However, if I unscrew the lens on the adapter, about 1/6th of a turn, it pops into focus nicely. Basically I will have to add a shim between the lens and the C adapter. Not too difficult. Try it on yours, It may work. Be careful not to loosen it too much, as I said, I only undid mine about 30 degrees - very carefuly! Also, to get the best out of the 10mm you'll need to stop down to it's 'sweet spot' which will be around f5.6 I'll upload pix when I get a chance. (Which means when I've figured out how...) pulp_writer and Mirrorkisser 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 @Parky: You can upload your pictures in the EOSHD Gallery: http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 ok, here's a quick and dirty focus test of the B&H Angenieux RF 10mm f1.8 using a Metabones C-M43 adapter. The first shot is as you'd expect to use the adapter, with the lens on fairly tight. Not going to win any awards with this one... Next, I unscrewed the lens a bit. Getting better... Next, I stopped down to f5.6 with the lens still loose. Now we're getting somewhere... Last, f8 still loose Best of all I think. Even with a bit of vignetting at the corners, I like this lens. I prefer 2.35 anyway... As I say, quick and dirty test. I'll try to get something more photogenic during the week. Right, I'm off to make some shims... pulp_writer and Mirrorkisser 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 I know this is a C mount compatability list but is anyone interested in other cine lens options? I've got some old Arri ST lenses and a nice new adapter from Metabones that I'll be trying in the next few days. Should I post results here or keep this one to C mount lenses? pulp_writer and Julian 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Essary Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 If anyone is interested in the Kinor 16mm camera lenses:http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/2529-kinor-16-for-the-bmpcc/?p=33404 I picked up the 6mm fisheye.. I have more that should be in any day now to test, as well. Julian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 Other mounts are welcome! Lets say anything that is made for small formats. It wouldn't make much sense to post Nikon F lenses or anything like that ;) I'll create a subcategory for other mounts. Updating the topicstart tomorrow. Thanks for the updates guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pulp_writer Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 My Metabones C-M43 adapter arrived today but I've only had 20 minutes to try it out. What I did discover with my Angenieux 10mm is that if I tighten the lens into place I can't achieve good focus. However, if I unscrew the lens on the adapter, about 1/6th of a turn, it pops into focus nicely. Basically I will have to add a shim between the lens and the C adapter. Not too difficult. Try it on yours, It may work. Be careful not to loosen it too much, as I said, I only undid mine about 30 degrees - very carefuly! Also, to get the best out of the 10mm you'll need to stop down to it's 'sweet spot' which will be around f5.6 I'll upload pix when I get a chance. (Which means when I've figured out how...) Very interesting. I tried it with my Angenieux, and it works. However, I have to adjust the unscrewing according to the distance from the object. The closer the object is, the further I have to unscrew the lens. Did you make the same observation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Very interesting. I tried it with my Angenieux, and it works. However, I have to adjust the unscrewing according to the distance from the object. The closer the object is, the further I have to unscrew the lens. Did you make the same observation? I'll need to test this, which I can't at the moment. Sadly, being a 60 year old lens, I can't find any data that tells me what the minimum working distance is for the lens. If the lens is functioning properly when you loosen the lens and achieve focus at infinity, a fixed focus lens should have everything in focus from infinity right down to the minimum focusing distance. Could it be that you're trying to focus closer than the minimum focusing distance of the lens? Unscrewing the lens to focus on close objects is the basis of macro photography. The further from the image plane the lens gets, the closer to the front element the focus point becomes What sort of distances are you focusing at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Taylor Hobson Super Comat 1" f1.9 (25mm) It's an old newsreel lens I picked up when I bought a Filmo a few years ago. Mines not great and it's tiny, which makes it a pig to use, but it works (a minor miracle considering it's easily 60 years old) Focused at infinity at f1.9 and then f5.6 the Red box is the BM Pocket Cinema Camera crop Minimum focusing distance at f1.9 and f5.6 I'm using a red box rather than the canvas resize method because I find it easier to judge the falloff on these old lens'. My file naming has gone a bit pear shaped. Ignore the 'mm' after the f stop value in the picture titles Julian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Taylor Hobson Serital 1" f1.9 (25mm) Another old newsreel lens. Nabbed this one off ebay for £40 ($60) Bargain! Focused at infinity at f1.9 and then f5.6 the Red box is the BM Pocket Cinema Camera crop Minimum focusing distance at f1.9 and f5.6 I'm happy I got a bargain with this one. Not good wide open, but then most lens' aren't. Stop it down a bit and it gets really nice. Should cover the PCC sensor with ease. P.S. Don't judge these shots on their artistic merit, I just shoved the camera out the backdoor... Julian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Taylor Hobson 1" f1.9 (25mm) I think this is another Serital but it's not marked so I can't be sure. It looks very similar to the Serital but it's slightly longer and is slightly bigger in diameter. Focused at infinity at f1.9 and then f5.6 Minimum focusing distance at f1.9 and f5.6 Again the Red box is the BM Pocket Cinema Camera crop I chose the same subject matter for all three lens' in order that people looking to get any of these can have some form of comparison. Although hardly a scientific one. I think I'll dig out my old Arri Schneiders and my Cooke tomorrow... Julian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Floyd-Walker Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 These are the cropped images for the Carl Zeiss Tevidon 10mm f2. Focused to infinity at f11: Focused to infinity at f2: Wide open DOP test: And this is how much metal I has to remove so that it would fit the Ultra thin adapter: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 One more for the pot... Taylor Hobson 0.7" f2.5 (17mm) Focused at Infinity and shot at f2.5 and then f5.6 - Red box is what the BMPCC will see. Focused at Infinity and shot at f2.5 and then f5.6 - Red box is what the BMPCC will see. Looks like it will cover the Pocket Cinema Camera sensor safely. Needs to be stopped down to realise it's potential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Floyd-Walker Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Here are the cropped images for the Computar 12.5 f1.3 Focused to infinity at f16: Focused to infinity at f1.3: Wide open DOP: Ernesto Mantaras 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 And this is how much metal I has to remove so that it would fit the Ultra thin adapter: Hi Richard, Is it the bevelled edge on the Brass that you mean? How did you do that, out of curiosity? A lathe or a file and grim determination? Looks good, how would you rate the results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Floyd-Walker Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Hi Richard, Is it the bevelled edge on the Brass that you mean? How did you do that, out of curiosity? A lathe or a file and grim determination? Looks good, how would you rate the results? Hi. It was a combination of lathe and an angle grinder. I had the over all diameter reduced from 40mm to 37mm by a local engineer. That was as much of a reduction as I dared at the time as I did not have the adapter with me to check it for fit and the outer wall of the mount was getting pretty thin. When I got home I had to reduce the base even further in order to get to infinity. I did this by clamping an angle grinder in a vice, mounting the lens base on a short pole and carefully grinding down the bevel until the base felt snug in the adapter. Next time I will make sure sure that I have the adapter with me when I need any more lathe work done. What is really cool is that the engineer that I went to is happy to do more work for me in the future as it is literally only 5 minutes of his time. I had to insist on giving him some cash as he did not know how to charge for such a small job. As for the lens I quite like it. There is a definite fall off in sharpness at the edges within the crop area when wide open but I like the feel of it overall. Though, like you have mentioned before, the big variable is the accuracy of the adapters. The lens also fits my V1 adapter but my camera is in for repair. I'm quite interested in how it looks on the Nikon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 As for the lens I quite like it. There is a definite fall off in sharpness at the edges within the crop area when wide open but I like the feel of it overall. To be honest I like having a lens or two that aren't pin sharp across the frame. People pay thousands for Tilt/Shift lenses just to achieve a mild blur around the edges. I'm an editor by trade and I'm always being asked to add blur to shots in post. It's the same reason I don't reject a lens If there's a touch of vignetting in the corners. Most of the stuff I cut has a vignette added in the grade to push the eye toward the action. Frankly if I want that effect I've got lenses that can do it better and with 'character' at a fraction of the cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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