Orangenz Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 Lovely new firmware to try out from lovely Panasonic! http://av.jpn.support.panasonic.com/support/global/cs/dsc/download/fts/index2.html 2017/8/7 Ver.1.1 Fixed the instability of Auto Focus. Improved the performance of O.I.S.(Optical Image Stabilizer). - The lateral stability seems to now match the vertical stability a bit better, ie. better for walking (and everything). The AF thing was when focusing on a stable target the background would pulse a little under some conditions. This fix means I should be able to 1-area touch AF with, um, more stability after achieving target. This has been a very encouraging process as they forwarded my material and concerns to the factory and gave feedback on their response. Very impressed. jonpais 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritz Pierre Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 Trevor...have you installed it...and do you see a difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangenz Posted August 7, 2017 Author Share Posted August 7, 2017 35 minutes ago, Fritz Pierre said: Trevor...have you installed it...and do you see a difference? Just edited my post. Yes, I think the ibis behaviour seems a bit more consistent between vertical and horizontal axis. iphonedo mentioned it in his review and I tested it myself. It wasn't quite as bad as he indicated but it was there. Just wandering around the house now. I'd say it was better, yes. I get the feeling that with some added weight and/or width with handles it will look pretty groovy. It "feels" smoother but hard to quantify. Maybe someone can do a bit of a walk, update, then repeat the walk exactly the same. :p I tested the AF stability and while "tracking" mode was a bit dodgy, the "1-area" mode is very nice and has a good "locked down" response, ie. with the 1-area box on my face, the background doesn't pulse now. Again, this isn't about focus acquisition, it is getting that achieved focus more stable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimor Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 I feel much better ibis now but still the same focusing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntblowz Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 thanks for the headup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangenz Posted August 7, 2017 Author Share Posted August 7, 2017 6 hours ago, Grimor said: I feel much better ibis now but still the same focusing. Quote Again, this isn't about focus acquisition, it is getting that achieved focus more stable. This reduces background pulsing while holding focus. Oh I hope people don't repeat those inane head pop up videos - nothing to do with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgreszcz Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 On 07/08/2017 at 0:58 PM, Orangenz said: This has been a very encouraging process as they forwarded my material and concerns to the factory and gave feedback on their response. Very impressed. Too bad they never really fixed the same on the 35-100/2.8. The only thing that made it better was the IBIS starting with the GX80. Was looking for some feedback on this lens as I'm considering selling a gx80 and my p12-35 and 35-100 lenses for the gh5+Leica 12-60 combo. For events it would make things easier than juggling two gx80 bodies. Downside is that I will need a bigger ND size for the 12-60. Orangenz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonpais Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 1 hour ago, sgreszcz said: Too bad they never really fixed the same on the 35-100/2.8. The only thing that made it better was the IBIS starting with the GX80. Was looking for some feedback on this lens as I'm considering selling a gx80 and my p12-35 and 35-100 lenses for the gh5+Leica 12-60 combo. For events it would make things easier than juggling two gx80 bodies. Downside is that I will need a bigger ND size for the 12-60. Do it! But don't skimp on the ND. You can use ETC mode on the GH5, will effectively give you two zooms for the price of one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgreszcz Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 1 hour ago, jonpais said: Do it! But don't skimp on the ND. You can use ETC mode on the GH5, will effectively give you two zooms for the price of one. That's what I'm thinking, thanks for the feedback - especially since I remember you weren't keen on the PL12-60 zoom when it was released. I use the breakthrough photography NDs 3/6 stop (sometimes 10 for timelapse) and until now I've been keeping all my lenses under 58mm using step ups and the xume magnetic adaptors to pop on/off filters. With the faster PL12/1.4 and 42.5/1.2 available I've been back and forth about selling my Voigtlander 17.5 and 42.5 lenses and just going with the PL12/1.4 and PL42.5/1.2 for indoor/low light, PL15/1.7 (and maybe 42.5/1.7) for travel and the PL12-60 for events. It might be easier to go all PL and autofocus but when I look at the museum shots I got with the V17.5 in the documentary I'm completing, it is hard to let them go. WEX in the UK has a trade in/up to the GH5 going on so I'm not sure what they'll give me for one of my GX80. I'll keep one gx80 for my bcam to gimbal cam. Orangenz and jonpais 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritz Pierre Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 4 hours ago, sgreszcz said: Too bad they never really fixed the same on the 35-100/2.8. The only thing that made it better was the IBIS starting with the GX80. Was looking for some feedback on this lens as I'm considering selling a gx80 and my p12-35 and 35-100 lenses for the gh5+Leica 12-60 combo. For events it would make things easier than juggling two gx80 bodies. Downside is that I will need a bigger ND size for the 12-60. I went with the Tiffen Indy Pack of ND's all at 77mm and I have to say I could not be happier with them...I use metal flared hoods to standardize all my lenses to 77mm...My bigger Nikon AF-S zooms are already there, and a couple of cheap sets of step up rings, combined with the flared metal hoods work perfectly...good ND's are expensive...lens hoods are not...and they're dirt cheap on EBay! PS...I own the PL12-60 and shot my daughter's 6th birthday party on a GH4 (non IBIS camera) using only the lens stabilization and all looks great and steady...everything was handheld....I bought this lens with the Focus Transition feature on the GH5 in mind as an afterthought,but it's never off my camera...and to put the speed of the lens into perspective...compared to the 12-35 Panny, it's only 1/2 a stop slower at 35mm and you still have 25mm of reach left! Orangenz and sgreszcz 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangenz Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 4 hours ago, sgreszcz said: Too bad they never really fixed the same on the 35-100/2.8. The only thing that made it better was the IBIS starting with the GX80. Was looking for some feedback on this lens as I'm considering selling a gx80 and my p12-35 and 35-100 lenses for the gh5+Leica 12-60 combo. For events it would make things easier than juggling two gx80 bodies. Downside is that I will need a bigger ND size for the 12-60. It really is super having the wider range of the PL12-60. Balances well on the zhiyun gimbal. I have the Syrp super dark variable for it but I suspect the Fritz option is better. The super dark covers super bright conditions but is too much for dusk. sgreszcz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgreszcz Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 1 hour ago, Orangenz said: It really is super having the wider range of the PL12-60. Balances well on the zhiyun gimbal. I have the Syrp super dark variable for it but I suspect the Fritz option is better. The super dark covers super bright conditions but is too much for dusk. I probably should start another thread for this, but how is the syrp? I've had the genus and heliopan variables and they are quite good for colour, but now I just keep things simple with either no nd, or 3/6 stops depending on the light and just go with whatever aperture for the right exposure. I might also experiment with breaking the shutter rule as I know there are some that don't bother with nd or add motion blur in post. Also shooting with the 60 or 180 fps modes in the gh5 there is less need for nd to get close to the 180o shutter. That would be 1/120s or 1/360s shutter to get the same perceived motion blur? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonpais Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 @sgreszcz You know what you're doing, but it's often easy to spot videos shot in broad daylight with no ND filter, and it doesn't pass the test in my eyes. And If they're using aperture priority, the camera's choosing the shutter speed, meaning motion can keep changing during a single take as well. Then again, there might be times you intentionally go for jittery motion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangenz Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 14 minutes ago, sgreszcz said: I probably should start another thread for this, but how is the syrp? I've had the genus and heliopan variables and they are quite good for colour, but now I just keep things simple with either no nd, or 3/6 stops depending on the light and just go with whatever aperture for the right exposure. I might also experiment with breaking the shutter rule as I know there are some that don't bother with nd or add motion blur in post. Also shooting with the 60 or 180 fps modes in the gh5 there is less need for nd to get close to the 180o shutter. That would be 1/120s or 1/360s shutter to get the same perceived motion blur? I use that and a Tiffen ND, I'm no expert but really both seem good. I use AutoWB and it compensates for any issues if there are any. Only get into trouble doing manual WB. If you want to slow 60 down to 30 just keep double the fps as the shutter, ie. 1/120. 180fps would be 1/360. Shooting 1/40 for 25fps at night looks great though. sgreszcz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.