Metabones speedbooster +full frame lens for Pannasonic G7

[lenny87]

Hello there,

In the atomos + ninja assasin thread with andy lee:

Andy lee said:

Quote

So it does it the G7 streams 4K UHD out its HDMI out !!! - amazing this is now a serious film making tool when paired with a Metabones Speedbooster XL and Nikon 2.8 Zooms lenses

My questions is:

Will the G7 only be a serious film making tool:

-Paired with a Metabones Speedbooster XL and Nikon 2.8 Zooms lenses (full frame lenses)?

-Or will it also be a serious film making tool when i put a native lens on it with F2.8 (for example the: Panasonic H ES12060E 12 – 60 mm Leica DG Vario Elmarit Standard Zoom Lens)

In other words:

-Do i necessarily need to have a Metabones Speedbooster XL with a full frame lens to get a result with less noise?

Or would i also get the same result if i buy a panasonic F2.8 lens?

 

Thanx in front

greetz Lenny

[jonpais]

16 minutes ago, lenny87 said:

Hello there,

In the atomos + ninja assasin thread with andy lee:

Andy lee said:

My questions is:

Will the G7 only be a serious film making tool:

-Paired with a Metabones Speedbooster XL and Nikon 2.8 Zooms lenses (full frame lenses)?

-Or will it also be a serious film making tool when i put a native lens on it with F2.8 (for example the: Panasonic H ES12060E 12 – 60 mm Leica DG Vario Elmarit Standard Zoom Lens)

In other words:

-Do i necessarily need to have a Metabones Speedbooster XL with a full frame lens to get a result with less noise?

Or would i also get the same result if i buy a panasonic F2.8 lens?

 

Thanx in front

greetz Lenny

According to many, the G7 still remains one of the best bargains for 4K. However, when shooting in low light with a slow native micro four thirds lens like an f/2.8-4 it will not exactly be a low light monster, you'll end up shooting at higher ISOs, with correspondingly higher noise. But in spite of the glowing reviews of the G7, I'd still highly recommend one of the newer Panasonic cameras with IBIS.

[lenny87]

19 minutes ago, jonpais said:

According to many, the G7 still remains one of the best bargains for 4K. However, when shooting in low light with a slow native micro four thirds lens like an f/2.8-4 it will not exactly be a low light monster, you'll end up shooting at higher ISOs, with correspondingly higher noise. But in spite of the glowing reviews of the G7, I'd still highly recommend one of the newer Panasonic cameras with IBIS.

He Jonpais,

thanx for your quick reply. I was hoping i could ask you some more?

-Does IBIS create less noise? Cause i always film on a tripod in a DIY green screen filmroom. see picture:

so my only concern is to get rid of this noise.

-does the G85 creates less noise then the G7?

-and when i have a 2.8 full frame lens from nikon  + an external recorder to capture prores 422, will the G7 be a low light monster?

thanx in front

greetz Lenny

[jonpais]

Just now, lenny87 said:

He Jonpais,

thanx for your quick reply. I was hoping i could ask you some more?

-what is IBIS?

-which camera would you recommend me?

-and when i have a 2.8 full frame lens from nikon will the G7 be a low light monster?

thanx in front

greetz Lenny

IBIS is in-body stabilization - the sensor moves to counteract camera shake to give you steadier shots. Many Panasonic lenses have OIS (optical image stabilization), but I find IBIS to be more effective. The newer cameras can utilize both to get even more stabilization. The GX80/85 or G80/85 are both very popular Panasonic cameras right now. If you pair up a full frame or APS-C lens with a focal reducer like the Metabones, you will get at least an extra stop of light. Alternatively, you can purchase fast native mount lenses like the Voigtlander Noktons, which have f/.095 aperture fastness. They are expensive, though you should be able to find many used ones on eBay for less. The Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC DN MFT is a fast, budget-priced autofocus lens. There are also a number of good, reasonably priced, relatively fast Panasonic lenses, like the 42.5mm f/1.7, for example. Again, if you shop around on eBay, you should be able to find something that suits your budget.

[lenny87]

17 minutes ago, jonpais said:

IBIS is in-body stabilization - the sensor moves to counteract camera shake to give you steadier shots. Many Panasonic lenses have OIS (optical image stabilization), but I find IBIS to be more effective. The newer cameras can utilize both to get even more stabilization. The GX80/85 or G80/85 are both very popular Panasonic cameras right now. If you pair up a full frame or APS-C lens with a focal reducer like the Metabones, you will get at least an extra stop of light. Alternatively, you can purchase fast native mount lenses like the Voigtlander Noktons, which have f/.095 aperture fastness. They are expensive, though you should be able to find many used ones on eBay for less. The Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC DN MFT is a fast, budget-priced autofocus lens. There are also a number of good, reasonably priced, relatively fast Panasonic lenses, like the 42.5mm f/1.7, for example. Again, if you shop around on eBay, you should be able to find something that suits your budget.

is a full frame lens always a fast lens? Or are there also slower full frame lenses?

Cause as i said before i am always filming on a tripod, so i guess i don't really need the IBIS. Or does the IBIS also has influences on the noise?

I am thinking of keeping the G7 , buying a speedbooster (Mitakon zhongyi lens turbo II) cause i don't need auto focus.

And then pair it up with a nikon full frame lens f2.8

I always film in a green screen room, so i can't go to low with my F stop :-)

Thanx in front

 

[jonpais]

Just now, lenny87 said:

is a full frame lens always a fast lens? Or are there also slower full frame lenses?

Cause as i said before i am always filming on a tripod, so i guess i don't really need the IBIS. Or does the IBIS also has influences on the noise?

I am thinking of keeping the G7 , buying a speedbooster (Mitakon zhongyi lens turbo II) cause i don't need auto focus.

And then pair it up with a nikon full frame lens f2.8

I always film in a green screen room, so i can't go to low with my F stop :-)

Thanx in front

 

If you never shoot handheld, you don't need IBIS. How fast a lens is refers to how much light it lets in - some lenses are slower, some faster. Not all full frame lenses are fast. Sounds like you have a good game plan.

[lenny87]

5 minutes ago, jonpais said:

If you never shoot handheld, you don't need IBIS. How fast a lens is refers to how much light it lets in - some lenses are slower, some faster. Not all full frame lenses are fast. Sounds like you have a good game plan.

Thanx for your great help Jonpais.

I can't go lower then F2.8, cause of filming in a green screen room.

Do you have any recommendations for a fast full frame zoom lens with F2.8 and manual aperture? It doesn't matter if it s nikon, canon or something else. I haven't biought the speedbooster yet :-)

I am looking for something similar like the native 12-60 leica lens.

thanx in front

[jonpais]

@lenny87 What's your budget looking like?  

[lenny87]

22 minutes ago, jonpais said:

@lenny87 What's your budget looking like?  

maximum 1000€

[jonpais]

You're aware that most zoom lenses nowadays (excluding cinema lenses) don't have a manual aperture ring, aren't you?

[lenny87]

20 minutes ago, jonpais said:

You're aware that most zoom lenses nowadays (excluding cinema lenses) don't have a manual aperture ring, aren't you?

i am aware :-) that's why it is hard to find one :-)

[jonpais]

@lenny87 Curious, are you using an external recorder?

[Phil A]

Not to derail the discussion, but if you want it exclusively to film green screen footage from a tripod, shouldn't you better invest into more light if you get image noise?

A faster lens (no matter if it's a fast MFT prime or fast full frame lens on focal reducer or whatever) will also give you less depth of field, probably more vignetting, etc and I'd think that's downfalls you'd want to avoid for what you're doing?

What aperture and ISO are you currently shooting the green screen work at that gives you the noisy image?

[lenny87]

8 hours ago, jonpais said:

@lenny87 Curious, are you using an external recorder?

yes the atomos ninja flame

8 hours ago, Phil A said:

Not to derail the discussion, but if you want it exclusively to film green screen footage from a tripod, shouldn't you better invest into more light if you get image noise?

A faster lens (no matter if it's a fast MFT prime or fast full frame lens on focal reducer or whatever) will also give you less depth of field, probably more vignetting, etc and I'd think that's downfalls you'd want to avoid for what you're doing?

What aperture and ISO are you currently shooting the green screen work at that gives you the noisy image?

He Phil,

You are right about the light. I have been playing around in my DIY green screen room and i have placed my lights closer to the subject. And that

brings alot. But i do think that a lens with for example F2.8 will also help, as long as i calculate exactly where my depth of field is. A professional photographer taught me today how to do it :-)

Today i bought a Samyang 12mm MFT lens with F2.0- F22 it's a manual focus and manual aperture lens, therefore not to expensive :-)

So i don't need any Speedbooster/focal reducer. I do think that i shouldn't go smaller then F2.8 , due to the depth of field.

Thanx

 

[andrgl]

Hi Lenny, you have nice even lighting on that green screen!

Here's a suggestion: Nikon-mount Sigma 18-35mm. This lense can be found used for a reasonable price. Just make sure the RJ Turbo (or whatever focal reducer you buy) has the aperture ring for Nikon G lenses. Plus if you get a dumb adapter (no glass inside) you get double the focal range!

[jonpais]

but no manual aperture ring. ?