NX1 Extended Dynamic Range? New Settings.

[musaire]

Thanks guys for an interesting discussion. But I lost it few pages back...

Anyway, a random video on NX1 - crappy camerawork with 100fps, handheld, and prob clipped something while grading but it is spring here in the forest -

 

[iam_andy]

Keep the topic alive! I this camera is actually still years ahead of most cameras! For the price of $500 on eBay you can have a camera near the quality of an FS7 or a RED!

From what I have read on this post it seems having 3 customer picture wizard profiles makes it appropriate to switch as needed. I have found that moving the Hue to -6 also improves the tone of the image and so I set all 3 Custom Profiles to the same settings (-10 Sharpness, -3 Saturation, -5 Contrast, -6 Hue) except for the RGB sliders. So in bright contrasty light, I may use Custom 1 with the settings of R: .88 , G: .86 , B: .87 to bring down the gain on the sensor (to my basic understanding) and in Higher Dynamic Range Situations, May go to Custom 2 with the boosted settings of R: 1.88, G: 1.86, B:1.87 and Finally I have a Custom 3 profile with R: 1.44 , G: 1.43, B: 1.44. This is a bit more contrasty but still with a wide DR. All of these Settings also are running on 16-235 and Black Level at +15.

The results are pretty amazing just from playing around. Makes me want to find all the NX1s out there and hoard them! 

[Beritar]

On 11/1/2019 at 3:07 AM, iam_andy said:

Keep the topic alive! I this camera is actually still years ahead of most cameras! For the price of $500 on eBay you can have a camera near the quality of an FS7 or a RED!

From what I have read on this post it seems having 3 customer picture wizard profiles makes it appropriate to switch as needed. I have found that moving the Hue to -6 also improves the tone of the image and so I set all 3 Custom Profiles to the same settings (-10 Sharpness, -3 Saturation, -5 Contrast, -6 Hue) except for the RGB sliders. So in bright contrasty light, I may use Custom 1 with the settings of R: .88 , G: .86 , B: .87 to bring down the gain on the sensor (to my basic understanding) and in Higher Dynamic Range Situations, May go to Custom 2 with the boosted settings of R: 1.88, G: 1.86, B:1.87 and Finally I have a Custom 3 profile with R: 1.44 , G: 1.43, B: 1.44. This is a bit more contrasty but still with a wide DR. All of these Settings also are running on 16-235 and Black Level at +15.

The results are pretty amazing just from playing around. Makes me want to find all the NX1s out there and hoard them! 

Thank you for your settings, I still enjoy my NX1 more than my A7III for videos.

[KnightsFan]

Way back when this topic first started, we were just about to start the second season of our experimental/comedy web series, #millcore. I dialed in the RGB settings I liked, created a LUT, and just used that for all shots. The settings I ended up using were: R 1.88, G 1.85, and B 1.95. Now (a few years later...) we are finally showing it publicly, so I can share the trailer.

 

[SMGJohn]

I tested the methods explained in this thread and I cannot find this supposed superiority, there is a severe penalty to the sharpness, you have a HUGE shift towards green even though I turned the green to 1.90
This is all with manual mode, no automatic garbage going on, all old fashioned adjustment, white balance equal for every image to show you the shift it goes from magenta to green its quite severe. 

There massive loss of sharpness with this method, the noise is far more prominent and here are examples that took me 5 minutes to do with manual focus, 1/30 shutter, 2.8 aperture and ISO of 1600.

Left is the standard profile. Middle one is adjusted ISO down to 800 with RGB boost. Right is the one with the 1.99 RGB levels and no adjustments, you gotta open these real up close and notice what happens, other than the RGB settings every other setting is completely identical. These are JPEG's by the way so video would look just as similar but worse noise obviously.

 

Again the Left is standard, middle is adjusted level and right is the boost one with no adjustments. 

Notice the sharpness loss in these, the camera was on a tripod with manual focus kept at same level in all 3 shots. 
The details are quite muddled suggesting your lossing something here, its almost like you are trying to extract details but not getting enough light, its exactly what this is. 
I read that some people suggested it gives you 1 - 2 stop extra range, but at a sunny day at 160 bitrate you can already pull a few stops out of the shadows anyway with a LOG like settings or not, this RGB boost seems to present no advantages in those shadow details at all in fact there seems to be a loss of details. 

[mnewxcv]

On 6/25/2020 at 7:09 PM, SMGJohn said:

I tested the methods explained in this thread and I cannot find this supposed superiority, there is a severe penalty to the sharpness, you have a HUGE shift towards green even though I turned the green to 1.90
This is all with manual mode, no automatic garbage going on, all old fashioned adjustment, white balance equal for every image to show you the shift it goes from magenta to green its quite severe. 

There massive loss of sharpness with this method, the noise is far more prominent and here are examples that took me 5 minutes to do with manual focus, 1/30 shutter, 2.8 aperture and ISO of 1600.

Left is the standard profile. Middle one is adjusted ISO down to 800 with RGB boost. Right is the one with the 1.99 RGB levels and no adjustments, you gotta open these real up close and notice what happens, other than the RGB settings every other setting is completely identical. These are JPEG's by the way so video would look just as similar but worse noise obviously.

 

Again the Left is standard, middle is adjusted level and right is the boost one with no adjustments. 

Notice the sharpness loss in these, the camera was on a tripod with manual focus kept at same level in all 3 shots. 
The details are quite muddled suggesting your lossing something here, its almost like you are trying to extract details but not getting enough light, its exactly what this is. 
I read that some people suggested it gives you 1 - 2 stop extra range, but at a sunny day at 160 bitrate you can already pull a few stops out of the shadows anyway with a LOG like settings or not, this RGB boost seems to present no advantages in those shadow details at all in fact there seems to be a loss of details. 

I've been doing some testing as well recently. I have found that there is a huge reduction in noise if shot a certain way, pretty much the opposite of what thought some years ago. Instead of exposing for highlights and bringing up shadows in post, if you use the RGB boost and expose more for shadows and bring them down in post, the resulting image is largely noise free. Watch out for blowing out the highlights. 

[sev7en]

Hello,

I read all 😄 but at the end... which one is the best setting up today? 😛