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Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K


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32 minutes ago, Shirozina said:

Messing around with my external monitor and looking at the scopes I can see that the zebras are linked to the red channel so all the more reason to make sure you WB correctly to avoid clipped highlights if you are using the zebras to ETTR. The GH5 along with many other cameras have the zebras linked to the green channel. Maybe BM want to avoid the user clipping skin tones above all else? Never understood why manufacturers need to just link zebras to a single channel and not have it work when any channel clips????

Zebras are currently based on Luma or the Y channel of YCbCr (as it has been since the first BMCC).

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2 minutes ago, CaptainHook said:

Zebras are currently based on Luma or the Y channel of YUV (as it has been since the first BMCC).

I can't view Luma on a a display and most NLE's work in an RGB working space. Also what about RAW capture which is not YUV? YUV is just the codec colour recording system for ProRes etc.

 

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1 minute ago, Shirozina said:

I can't view Luma on a a display and most NLE's work in an RGB working space. Also what about RAW capture which is not YUV? YUV is just the codec colour recording system for ProRes etc.

Historically (not that we've made cameras THAT long) we've always converted internally to YUV/YCbCr no matter the codec for SDI output etc. It's then convenient and easier on resources to do image statistics on just luma for zebras/false colour and that has not changed. RGB would be more ideal, yes. Personally I always set zebras to 95% for some slight headroom (even before I worked for the company and learnt how it worked) and after i joined and we added false colour, the "red" (highlight clipping) on false colour is actually at 95% for the same reason.

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1 minute ago, CaptainHook said:

Historically (not that we've made cameras THAT long) we've always converted internally to YUV/YCbCr no matter the codec for SDI output etc. It's then convenient and easier on resources to do image statistics on just luma for zebras/false colour and that has not changed. RGB would be more ideal, yes. Personally I always set zebras to 95% for some slight headroom (even before I worked for the company and learnt how it worked) and after i joined and we added false colour, the "red" (highlight clipping) on false colour is actually at 95% for the same reason.

Thanks for that clarification and I'll set my Zebras accordingly.

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9 hours ago, seanzzxx said:

For people getting their hopes up, this is slightly misleading. My experience has been the following:

The 18-35 will vignette even on a .71x ('ultra') speedbooster until about 20mm in DCI 4K (only barely and not worth mentioning in Ultra HD). It's sort of usable but the vignette is definitely there across the whole left and right side and it's relatively severe.

It will basically be unusable on full frame on my A7RII until 35mm, at which point you might as well use the lighter, better, brighter 35mm 1.4 ART.

 

5 hours ago, Shirozina said:

Not seen any problem with my Viltrox .71 and yes it will be unusable on full frame as it's an APS-C lens.

 

5 hours ago, seanzzxx said:

That's weird, because I definitely am. Are you shooting at the full sensor width? I'll get some screen caps later today :)

Also my comment about full frame was in reference to Emanuel saying the lens is usable at full frame except for the wide end while my experience is that that's not really true.

 

4 hours ago, Shirozina said:

Just checked now (without the 1:2.40 frame guides) and yes there is a very slight corner shading wide open at the wide end but I wouldn't call it a problem and nothing that can't be fixed in the grade. Maybe on the Metabones it's different though?

 

These are tests conducted on Sigma with a XL version where is (in the comments section) explicitly written there's no vignetting from about 22-24mm on going along his GH5 for that setup, obviously:

 

And here is one where the same user tests tap-to-focus feature on the same camera coupled to the same focal reducer to those who think it might not be possible to go with AF on P4K (touchscreen focus is an autofocus feature BTW, whether you use it or not ; ) 

 

On the other hand, here are these samples which follow your feeling @seanzzxx -- very welcome to the discussion BTW (part II):

6c37f4bf4c33433b9ce441f19b6c5fa3

source: https://***URL removed***/forums/post/58134184

 

Another one on a7R:

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source: https://***URL removed***/forums/post/57637470

 

Here's a 3rd one which proves in the real world the results may vary from that 23-25mm (to stand Daniel's 22-24mm statement) mark though (on a 5DII now) -- count on some distortion anyways:

http://thurtlepower.com/dorsetweddingphotographerblog/sigma-18-35mm-dc-hsm-mini-review-and-first-impressions/

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1 hour ago, Anaconda_ said:

It's a shame you lose audio inputs with the side handle though, you can see in one of the images it's blocking the 3.5mm jack, so XLR must be the same.

That V-mount baseplate looks great though. 

Very interesting and holistic approach, but if they block the audio inputs, then they negate one very important advantage (for me).

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34 minutes ago, omega1978 said:

i think you can slide out the grip to access the xlr and 3.5

 

Unbenannt.JPG

It is impressive that they have all these options. Maybe the camera widens significantly with this solution though, and even if you put an angled connection, that makes the grip to widen even more.

I noticed there is a basic plate for an F battery, and an SSD attachment on the monitor hood, with the half cage it could be enough to have a very workable and minimalistic solution.

Those Tilta options seem like the best right now, and very well thought, maybe they pre-ordered first!

There is a lot of support on this camera. Certainly more than the EZ one!

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15 minutes ago, Anaconda_ said:

To me that looks like how you put the grip on and take it off. I don’t think you can have it half way like that.

The screw at the bottom of the grip has to screw into the cage somewhere. By doing that you block the ports. 

i think this 2 withe blocks jam the grip in the tail and allow you to fix the grip to access the plugs

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