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Sony A7 III first impressions - what is going on with metering in video?


Andrew Reid
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I think Andrew? posted that AF-S mode uses CDAF instead of PDAF.

Coming from Panasonic it is annoying there is no "fast" AF-S in video mode with focus confirm for setting up the shot, but the AF-C is pretty good so it's a small adjustment.  You can also hit af-on to refocus.  If it can't find focus (like closer than min focus distance) it shows blinking green dot in bottom left, if it's constant then focus has been achieved.

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33 minutes ago, scotchtape said:

I think Andrew? posted that AF-S mode uses CDAF instead of PDAF.

Coming from Panasonic it is annoying there is no "fast" AF-S in video mode with focus confirm for setting up the shot, but the AF-C is pretty good so it's a small adjustment.  You can also hit af-on to refocus.  If it can't find focus (like closer than min focus distance) it shows blinking green dot in bottom left, if it's constant then focus has been achieved.

This is another reason I shoot video from stills mode - I can do a quick AF-C burst to confirm and lock focus before I hit record, then it stays put during the recording of the clip.

Don't always want focus to move during a shot.

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Forced AF with an AF-ON button does not work well in video mode. Gives too much hunting. 

So my practice is to have a dedicated button that toggles between AF/MF. When I want to focus I engage the toggle and to set the focus point you can touch the point on the touchscreen. Then turn off if you don't want to change focus any more. Woks reliably for me. 

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1 minute ago, Grégory LEROY said:

" I like this setup but it has a problem, because unless I shoot in full manual mode, my videos are almost always exposed a full stop darker than my stills. "

But who doesn't shoot in full manual mode anyway (both photo & video) ? I don't think it's big issue.

A lot of people shoot in aperture priority mode that I know, especially for stills.

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I find going from stills to video is like you discovered in your fun time with the A73. What I did for myself to make it easy to do both is to set C1 as base set of video settings and then the same to C2 for a base set of photo settings. If I am going to do video I turn the mode dial to C1 and then adjust from there.

If I am going to shoot some quick images then I turn the dial to C2 and fine tune whatever I want to do with the images. The only catch, or "gotchya" is after you turn from C1 to C2 you MUST hit the SET button to register all the changes. Same when going back to C1. What I should actually say is, whenever you change to a C1 or C2 always hit the center SET button for the changes to happen to the camera.

I was easily able to work this camera this way in a fast paced event. I had the video settings using the wide mode and face detection focus modes plus all my other video settings, but the C2 for pictures is registered differently with the Flex-L focus mode as the launching point when I go to C2. Of course all the other settings registered to my liking for pictures versus video.

Peter

PS I would have liked more than just C1 and C2 like the Panasonics have, but . . .

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Hi Andrew, comparing to the NX1, in good lighting, do You think the A7III reached the same amount of detail? I saw this video, and really liked it. 

The A7 III seems to mach the NX1 performance in good lighting, even in 1080p 120fps, and in low light it spanks it. What do you think? I'm only  talking about pure IQ here...

Thanks :)

 

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4 hours ago, Andrew Reid said:

In final testing stages now, so early next week hopefully.

snif, snif... you didn't answer me Andrew :(

By the way, I've seen your videos. I love electronic music, and bands such as Depeche Mode, Ultravox, Underworld... and I just adore your videos, I love Radioctivoty, the music reminds me those old C64 musics... and of course kraftwerk :) 

Listen andrew, I also do Electronic Music... My project is called Lollipop Boy. Do you wanna make me a video? ;)

Here is one of my musics... the video images are not mine....

 

 

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On 5/17/2018 at 2:09 PM, Andrew Reid said:

This is another reason I shoot video from stills mode - I can do a quick AF-C burst to confirm and lock focus before I hit record, then it stays put during the recording of the clip.

Don't always want focus to move during a shot.

Andrew a clarification please, when you say "lock focus before I hit record," as you saying you lock it by locking it with some setting or just leaving it be?

Just trying to learn how to deal with this beast.  Focusing issues are the only problems I have with the camera.  Thanks.

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On 18/05/2018 at 8:31 AM, PeterGregg said:

I find going from stills to video is like you discovered in your fun time with the A73. What I did for myself to make it easy to do both is to set C1 as base set of video settings and then the same to C2 for a base set of photo settings. If I am going to do video I turn the mode dial to C1 and then adjust from there.

If I am going to shoot some quick images then I turn the dial to C2 and fine tune whatever I want to do with the images. The only catch, or "gotchya" is after you turn from C1 to C2 you MUST hit the SET button to register all the changes. Same when going back to C1. What I should actually say is, whenever you change to a C1 or C2 always hit the center SET button for the changes to happen to the camera.

I was easily able to work this camera this way in a fast paced event. I had the video settings using the wide mode and face detection focus modes plus all my other video settings, but the C2 for pictures is registered differently with the Flex-L focus mode as the launching point when I go to C2. Of course all the other settings registered to my liking for pictures versus video.

Peter

PS I would have liked more than just C1 and C2 like the Panasonics have, but . . .

Problem with using C mode it doesn’t keep your settings if you make changes, if camera sleeps or powers off it reverts to saved settings which can be really throw you. 

Wish Sony would just copy all UI and controls from GH5 exactly. 

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Hi Andrew!

I've read that you are planning to update the EOSHD Pro Colors 3.0 , but are you going to update the EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony a7r III / a7III too ?

I've been using your EOSHD Pro LOG with the WideDR2 Lut and obtained amazing results, so I was wondering if you are going to tweak your settings to improve the IQ of the a7r III ?

Thanks for you work,

Emeric

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5 hours ago, John Jay said:

Problem with using C mode it doesn’t keep your settings if you make changes, if camera sleeps or powers off it reverts to saved settings which can be really throw you. 

Wish Sony would just copy all UI and controls from GH5 exactly. 

At least with the A7rII/III any changes of the C settings are kept while sleep/power cycle. It only revers to the saved C values when the mode dial is rotated. 

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On 16/05/2018 at 4:39 AM, Andrew Reid said:

In fact I'd get shot of the mode dial altogether and do what the X-H1 does. Dedicated ISO and shutter dials, with option for auto on both, and auto ISO.

Totally agree..  the first time I saw the Fuji approach with separate dials I was amazed, then amazed at why other brands don't do this.  Can we start a petition of some kind??

I've also been totally pissed off in the past at cameras that don't allow Auto-ISO in manual mode, which means there's no way to control SS and Aperture but still have the camera expose for you - like you would do in street photography!

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I feel quite the opposite. While i like the manual dedicated dials for photography, for video it is a pain. The shutter dial especially is not that useful since you have to use two separate dials to get my most used speed 1/50. I shoot mostly in manual mode with autoISO and I frequently adjust the shutter speed between 1/25 and 1/100.  And for the ISO dial you rarely need to select one specific ISO value. It is mostly adjusting for exposure or setting it to auto. 

For video I much prefer the dumb assignable dials. Easier to quickly set a value with just one finger. I have set the back control wheel to change the ISO which also has an auto position. Moreover, I wish every company implements the smooth auto ISO of the Sonys. The exposure changes as smooth as the variable electronic ND of the FS5. 

 

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Having dedicated dials but abrupt changes in exposure like the Fuji - not the way forward for the industry. Ditto for highly customizable menus but AF that cannot stay locked on a moving subject for 15 consecutive seconds, as in Chris and Jordan’s review. On the other hand, Fuji could take a page out of Sony’s book and incorporate a longer life battery and headphone jack. It is Sony that is leading the way, not the other way ‘round.

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The one area where Sony usually keeps ahead is sensor tech.

But the days of Sony "leading the way" are kinda past i feel.. they were the laziest this year at NAB by just adding a picture profile to the FS5 and calling it a day with their Mk2. 

We're still seeing the same 8-bit 100mbs XAVC codec in their third generation MILCs. They took away big features like timelapse from previous gen. Still no AF-S in video. Still color science issues, still same resolution EVF, convoluted menu system...etc.

Meanwhile Fuji put a 200mbps codec, DCI 2K/4K options, Flog/Eterna, IBIS, touch screen, top display etc in only their second 4K body ever. Camera has it's quirks but not bad overall improvements imo.

Ergonomics & color science wise i also find Fuji is way ahead the competition.

But the real battle is going to be at Photokina in september with XT3, A7S3, Pocket 4K as well as much expected FF MILCs from CaNikon.

 

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12 hours ago, Don Kotlos said:

I feel quite the opposite. While i like the manual dedicated dials for photography, for video it is a pain. The shutter dial especially is not that useful since you have to use two separate dials to get my most used speed 1/50. I shoot mostly in manual mode with autoISO and I frequently adjust the shutter speed between 1/25 and 1/100.  And for the ISO dial you rarely need to select one specific ISO value. It is mostly adjusting for exposure or setting it to auto. 

This actually isn't true, its a myth repeated throughout the interweb when people discuss Fuji. I shoot manual with auto ISO, I constantly move the SS around - especially when shooting stills - I wouldn't have bought Fuji if I had to move two dials as that would be a major PITA. All you have to do set the SS dial to "T" and use the front or rear control dial like you would with any other camera. I've never actually used the SS dial with the XT2, its locked while set to "T" mode. The XH1 also has a 1/48 option when shooting 24p, something my a7r2 lacks.

Note the T right next to Bulb mode, just lock the dial there and pick front or rear control dial (rear is default) to scroll SS's, and you can access all of them, not just what's on the dial. You can also assign ISO to the front dial. Fuji's are incredibly customizable.

Chris

Screen Shot 2018-05-21 at 9.39.33 AM.png

11 hours ago, jonpais said:

Having dedicated dials but abrupt changes in exposure like the Fuji - not the way forward for the industry. Ditto for highly customizable menus but AF that cannot stay locked on a moving subject for 15 consecutive seconds, as in Chris and Jordan’s review. On the other hand, Fuji could take a page out of Sony’s book and incorporate a longer life battery and headphone jack. It is Sony that is leading the way, not the other way ‘round.

But with Fuji you can just use the front and rear dials to control SS and ISO, you don't have to use the top dials exclusively. I don't use them at all. Below is the menu where you move ISO to the front command dial. I agree the stinkin headphone jack should have been on the XT2 and XH1 and I'd like to see a bigger battery as well. I'm betting the GFX battery makes its way into the higher end models starting with the XT3. It took Sony 7+ years to update the battery in E-mount bodies, they're not exactly at the forefront in that department. Same for the 100mbps video.

Screen Shot 2018-05-21 at 9.56.18 AM.png

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