Robinhood Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 Hello I just started using the VisionTech PP on my ML'd Canon 5Diii and I have noticed that when in stills mode, and at 400 ISO, the zebras tend to go crazy far more easily- in other words, I have to close down all the way to f22 NEARLY 90% OF THE TIME and but then the highlights in the skies/clouds are still blown out so I have to then reduce the ISO to 200 (shutter remains at 1/50) Has anyone else noticed that the exposure sensitivity has increased using this VisionTech and therefore you have to close further down, and yet it's still not enough and need to reduce the iso?? I just don't like the idea of reducing the dynamic range available in camera by having to go down from 400 to 200ISO.... and I am for sure not going to move off of 1/50 shutter speed (gotta retain the closest film related settings as possible). -- which I will now simply go down the rabbit's hole straight away: what has been confirmed as the best iso for widest dynamic range for both stills and video when using ML canon 5Diii's??? -- Also, as an aside, has anyone noticed when shooting stills in RAW they revert to the FF 1.66 aspect ratio?? This is so lame. As a result, I simply only shoot jpeg Large so that I can remain shooting stills in 16x9 mode. Please confirm if this happens on your ends as well. --Finally- is it true that when shooting pics (in stills mode RAW) or videos (in video mode using ML RAW) the picture profiles selected are NOT actually being utilized??? This sounds strange but I think I read this somewhere. Hope it's not true. Please confirm or deny for both stills and video (as well as when taking stills in video mode) Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Goodwin2 Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 I don't use ML RAW. I haven't noticed your problem until now. It could be because the contrast is at -4 or -3 or something like that. You could also try doing half stops or third stops in Magiclantern like for example, 320 ISO instead of 400 or ISO 200 if this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leslie Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 a quick google found me this magic lantern forum post maybe you could try there also ? https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3108.0 upon further thinking, isn't 1/50 a pretty slow shutter speed and iso 200-400 a little fast for daylight ? i imagine there's a ton of light hitting the sensor which is why you having to close your aperture all the way down. if you cant compromise on the shutter speed and or change your iso then your aperture has be closed down. the only other thing to do is put some neutral density filters on it, to stop the the sky and highlights from blowing out. that my simply understanding of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Goodwin2 Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 I understand this may not be the answer you are looking for, as a videographer and photographer I think you have to learn how to utlize shallow depth of field and deep depth of field. True, it's very complex to have to use deep and shallow depth of field all the time and constantly be changing the setting on the camera, but after learning how to use them and getting comfortable with them, you learn how to focus on just the subject with the camera in any setting. Camera setting are second nature like driving a car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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