Panasonic GH6

[John Matthews]

6 hours ago, Robb said:

Good to know. I'll try to delete it and redownload it. No I was just using regular photo mode. Davinci can for sure handle DNGs, I wish they would update to handle RW2 files though .. 

There's one other thing I thought of: don't check that "use lossy compression" box. Many programs cannot read any compressed DNGs.

[FoxAdriano]

GH6: Selection of focus mode. Function of the "AFON" button

Hi, I have the GH6 and have never figured out which AFON key selection works best for me. I get confused and always have problems with focus. I always have to shoot quickly without thinking too much, otherwise the action to be filmed vanishes. Can anyone help me to understand that button better please? I use the GH6 in manual. I only shoot in UHD 4:22 50p. I rarely film people walking and moving around, I usually film people working outdoors in their villages. One or more people who stand still, but move their arms to work or move only a few meters. I always use manual focus. Thus the AF -MF slide switch is always set to MF. Can you advise me if it is better that I put the focus mode button on C or S? Above all I would like to know exactly what you do step by step a moment before you shoot. This aspect remains very difficult for me. 1000 thanks

[John Matthews]

4 hours ago, FoxAdriano said:

GH6: Selection of focus mode. Function of the "AFON" button

Hi, I have the GH6 and have never figured out which AFON key selection works best for me. I get confused and always have problems with focus. I always have to shoot quickly without thinking too much, otherwise the action to be filmed vanishes. Can anyone help me to understand that button better please? I use the GH6 in manual. I only shoot in UHD 4:22 50p. I rarely film people walking and moving around, I usually film people working outdoors in their villages. One or more people who stand still, but move their arms to work or move only a few meters. I always use manual focus. Thus the AF -MF slide switch is always set to MF. Can you advise me if it is better that I put the focus mode button on C or S? Above all I would like to know exactly what you do step by step a moment before you shoot. This aspect remains very difficult for me. 1000 thanks

Hello. I'm not a pro, but I have experience with filming my family. Here's my pre-pressing the record button thoughts:

If people, objects or camera move closer or further away -> use continuous AF with subject recognition (you mileage may vary with some lenses because this matters). You can also tap on the subject you want so that the cross-hairs appear on their face (for a person). In decent light, this mode is "serviceable" with the right lens IMO. Be sure to turn on continuous video AF in mode 2 (the camera will pre-focus the scene for you and continue during recording). This is the method for "automatic" AF but you must watch it. In the same situation, you could also use manual focus. A blown-up version of the scene should appear and will aid you in getting critical focus.

If people, objects or camera move only side to side or locked down, along the focal plane -> use single-point AF with subject recognition. You could also use manual focus and just push the AF button on the screen.

Hope that helps... there might be other who could also help you.

[youshouldtry11]

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[FoxAdriano]

Hello, I have a GH6 and I'd like to buy a SMALLRIG GH6 Cage Kit, this:

https://www.amazon.it/SMALLRIG-Panasonic-Morsetto-Maniglia-Superiore/dp/B09T9N6YZS/ref=sr_1_6?__mk_it_IT=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=155W0L7K34WV3&keywords=cage+lumix+gh6&qid=1676238965&sprefix=cage+lumix+gh6%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-6

I'd like to ask some questions to those who are already using it.

I will only use it when traveling abroad to make documentaries. My idea is to always leave it mounted on the GH6. I don't have time to disassemble and assemble it all the time, because I don't have time. I make videos where I don't have the right time to be able to do various maneuvers. I don't know if the cage is useful for me. In fact I'm afraid that the handle slightly obstructs my eye on the viewfinder that I use a lot. But not only that, I'm afraid it's all uncomfortable. Do you think a cage for me could be useful? THANK YOU for your thoughts. But I would like them from those who use the cage.

[FoxAdriano]

Does anyone shoot videos with ISO always in AUTO?

Hi, some time ago I asked a similar question, but instead of answering my question, some people kindly told me when to use ISO in AUTO to get some benefits. I try to do it again. I already know it's a strange question but I'll try to ask it. Is anyone using ISO in AUTO all the time? I know when you use and also the benefits of the automatic ISO in certain situations, but I would like to know if anyone always uses them in AUTO and how it is. I mean to use the camera in Manual and putting 25p and 1/50 always fixed for the 180° rule. Some may smile, but I know some professional photographers do it. Thanks

[ac6000cw]

Surely the important thing is: does using auto-iso all the time work for you, in the shooting situations/environments you experience?

Personally (as an amateur) I basically use auto-iso all the time, because I'm nearly always filming documentary stuff outdoors in uncontrolled lighting conditions that sometimes can change very quickly. It's one less thing to think about and adjust manually, when I'd rather be concentrating on keeping things framed sensibly and in focus. For me it means I'm more likely to get usable footage of e.g. wildlife and other 'in the moment' events.

If you are using auto-iso, remember that exposure/light metering settings will affect the behaviour of it, so you might need to change those to suit the subjects you are filming (like you have to with AF settings sometimes). Modern cameras are pretty good at dealing with most situations, but they can't know how you want the image to look in difficult situations e.g. in a very high contrast situation, is it better to burn out some of the highlights or lose some of the deep shadow detail? - that's an artistic choice...

[FoxAdriano]

Hello would you take away a curiosity? A doubt came to me. I know the native ISO on the GH6 is ISO 100. But using the V-Log the native ISO is ISO 200? Thank you

[92F]

EDIT – we reached out to Panasonic to clarify the base ISO’s of the GH6 with or without DR boost mode:

DR Boost “ON”: V-Log / HLG: ISO2000

DR Boost “ON”: other picture profiles: ISO800

DR Boost “OFF”: V-Log / HLG ISO250 (initially we thought 800).

DR Boost “OFF”: other picture profiles: ISO100

https://www.cined.com/panasonic-lumix-gh6-lab-test-rolling-shutter-dynamic-range-and-latitude/

[John Matthews]

On 2/23/2023 at 11:16 PM, FoxAdriano said:

Does anyone shoot videos with ISO always in AUTO?

I use this sometimes, but I'll set up the camera so I can hit ONE button to lock exposure and AF. It's basically a great way to not dial in manual exposure, just SS and F-Stop and let the ISO do the rest. This technique may require NDs though, especially in V-LOG. If you change the scene, toggle the button again and you can keep going... just remember to set WB before anything.

[Kisaha]

Sometimes I work for a production company that have 4-5 GH5 cameras and all the accessories and lenses, e.t.c

Recently they asked me for advice to move with the GH6, but I am considering to suggest the GH5mkII instead.

Does it make any sense or I am just being silly?!

[hyalinejim]

Well, will a new camera allow them to do something that they can't do now?

[John Matthews]

10 hours ago, Kisaha said:

Sometimes I work for a production company that have 4-5 GH5 cameras and all the accessories and lenses, e.t.c

Recently they asked me for advice to move with the GH6, but I am considering to suggest the GH5mkII instead.

Does it make any sense or I am just being silly?!

Your colors will be different with a GH6, arguably much better. Also, the headline feature is 120fps 4k... not many cameras can do it and it's a significant upgrade from line-skipped 1080p 120fps on most cameras. There's just no replacement.

1 hour ago, hyalinejim said:

Well, will a new camera allow them to do something that they can't do now?

GH5/s/ii can do almost everything. A GH6 has better colors, amazing codecs and 120fps 4k down-sampled. More than ever, cameras don't really matter except for specialized tasks. I think it's good to have some solid cameras with decent output; for the rest, you can rent.

[FoxAdriano]

15 hours ago, John Matthews said:

I use this sometimes, but I'll set up the camera so I can hit ONE button to lock exposure and AF. It's basically a great way to not dial in manual exposure, just SS and F-Stop and let the ISO do the rest.

I thank you for yopur precious info. Let me to ask another question please, I'd like to understand well because I won't have time to manually adjust everything on my GH6 during my travels away from my home country.

1) Which is the precise BUTTON you use to lock exposure and AF? Did you configure that button?

2) Do you think in this way can I have the same results as adjusting everything manually?

3) Are you satisfied with using the GH6 like this?

I thank you again.

[John Matthews]

1 hour ago, FoxAdriano said:

I thank you for yopur precious info. Let me to ask another question please, I'd like to understand well because I won't have time to manually adjust everything on my GH6 during my travels away from my home country.

1) Which is the precise BUTTON you use to lock exposure and AF? Did you configure that button?

2) Do you think in this way can I have the same results as adjusting everything manually?

3) Are you satisfied with using the GH6 like this?

I thank you again.

The function you're looking for is the AEL/AFL lock. If you shoot manually or without Auto ISO, there's no point. The is really just a way to lock exposure and focus quickly and efficiently. It's far less effective if you're working with ND filters or care about a proper shutter speed.

1) On the GH6, you can configure almost any button, but I chose the exposure compensation button. Turn on AF / AE Lock Hold and set a custom button to AEL / AFL. That should work.

2) It depends on the lighting situation. For lowish light situations, it should work. Outside, it cannot replace the ND filter approach.

3) I don't really care so much about SS. I'm not a pro and I'd just rather capture the moment.

[FoxAdriano]

1 hour ago, John Matthews said:

2) It depends on the lighting situation. For lowish light situations, it should work. Outside, it cannot replace the ND filter ...

I will only shoot outdoors with lots of light, so I always leave the VND applied on the GH6 lens. I hope if I use the same your config. with AUTO ISO, I will get good 4K videos.

Then ..... As for the automatic recognition of AF, which icon would you choose among these? I usually shoot 1 or 2 or 3 people who are working at a distance of 4-6 meters or more. Is it ok if I choose ALL AREA?

I thank you

[John Matthews]

2 hours ago, FoxAdriano said:

I will only shoot outdoors with lots of light, so I always leave the VND applied on the GH6 lens. I hope if I use the same your config. with AUTO ISO, I will get good 4K videos.

Then ..... As for the automatic recognition of AF, which icon would you choose among these? I usually shoot 1 or 2 or 3 people who are working at a distance of 4-6 meters or more. Is it ok if I choose ALL AREA?

I thank you

Ok, in this case, I'd use a higher f-stop of at least f/4 on the GH6. At 4-6 meters away, you'll hit the hyper focal distance of many focal lengths. What lens are you using? You could use any of the AF modes; but, for people, it's logical to use human detect. Also, as long as the people are small in the frame, I'd use Single Point AF, not Continuous AF as they're so far away and this would eliminate any hunting (you could also use manual AF).

[Kisaha]

They have to do an "upgrade" of sorts..they GH5 cameras they have now are really beaten. I noticed the sound thingy that goes to the hot shoe had issues with at least 2 of their cameras, and the skin of the cameras have peeled of, and some of it sticks..

I never heard them do anything in "slowmotion", all the times I have worked there we shot 25 frames and in bigger jobs and/or movies they rent anyway. Also, they do not care about AF.

They believe the natural progression is the  GH6, but I thought the GH5mkII is good enough for whatever they usually do, or, if they want to up their game to move to S5XmkII but the investment for 4 cameras, lenses and accessories are pretty significant and a no go..

Is the image of the GH6 really that better? Quite honestly I do not see that.

Any comment about the ISO performance, of the GH6 vs the GH5?

[John Matthews]

8 hours ago, Kisaha said:

Is the image of the GH6 really that better? Quite honestly I do not see that.

Any comment about the ISO performance, of the GH6 vs the GH5?

Not better at 25fps in any significant way and that includes ISO performance IMO. However, the GH6 torches the GH5 in high frame rates.

[FoxAdriano]

16 hours ago, John Matthews said:

Ok, in this case, I'd use a higher f-stop of at least f/4 on the GH6. At 4-6 meters away, you'll hit the hyper focal distance of many focal lengths. What lens are you using? You could use any of the AF modes; but, for people, it's logical to use human detect. Also, as long as the people are small in the frame, I'd use Single Point AF, not Continuous AF as they're so far away and this would eliminate any hunting (you could also use manual AF).

I'm afraid my camera is not set up correctly for what I shoot. I repeat: I would like to shoot quickly and easily and get the most professional videos possible, even if I already know that this is difficult. jejeje Of course I have configured the GH6 for human detect, but I understand that I have to put the key on "S". Is it right? Now the key is positioned on "C" and often the image goes out of focus for a few tenths of a second. Did I get it right? My lens is Leica 12-60mm.