Sebv Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 need advice on next lense to buy i own these wide angles zenitar 16mm f2.8 a broken (drop) saymang 24mm f1.4 canon 28mm f1.8 samyang 35mm f1.4 what i am looking for is a lense to keep everything in focus whitout having to go all the way up with the f-stop thanks for sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peederj Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Aperture and sensor size combined determine your depth of field and there's nothing you can do about that other than get a smaller sensor camera that will have deeper depth of field for the same aperture but will lose low-light capability and not win you much vs. sticking with your full frame sensor and cranking down the iris to f/11 or so. When you get really wide like the Samyang 14mm/2.8 you can work hyperfocal, where you get infinity just in focus and everything in front of that to a distance of 1.5m or so will also be in focus. The wider the lens, the deeper the DoF at distance. Are you worried about diffraction effects going above f/8? I.e. stars on highlights? If you want to knock down the light level, use an ND. Otherwise I would suppose you'd be a customer for the Lytro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Andrew Reid Posted July 26, 2013 Administrators Share Posted July 26, 2013 need advice on next lense to buy i own these wide angles zenitar 16mm f2.8 a broken (drop) saymang 24mm f1.4 canon 28mm f1.8 samyang 35mm f1.4 what i am looking for is a lense to keep everything in focus whitout having to go all the way up with the f-stop thanks for sharing If you want to keep everything in focus you can't do it with a fast aperture on full frame. You'd be better off with a small sensor. Consider Zeiss Jena 20mm F2.8 in M42 mount though. At F5.6 that is a great run & gun lens and optically superb for the price. Bought mine for 200 euros and if it were a modern lens it would be 1000+ Samyang 14mm F2.8 is a weird lens - distortion is massive on it. It's OK for grabbing the odd shot and works best in confined spaces, crowds or for arty close-ups - but whenever you have angular or straight objects in the shot it looks rubbish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peederj Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Lots of fisheye distortion correction plugins cropping up, spurred by the success of the GoPro. This will help you: http://www.andersenimages.com/tutorials/hyperfocal/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HurtinMinorKey Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 rokinon 24mm cine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 I think the Tokina 11-16mm works on the 5D as long as you just use it as a 16mm lens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomekk Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 rokinon 24mm cine Isn't rokinon 24mm the same as samyang 24mm which has a lot of distortion according to Andrew? edit: ahhh, Andrew was talking about 14mm. What about distortion in 24mm version? Is it better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HurtinMinorKey Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Isn't rokinon 24mm the same as samyang 24mm which has a lot of distortion according to Andrew? edit: ahhh, Andrew was talking about 14mm. What about distortion in 24mm version? Is it better? Distortion is almost non existent on my 5D2. It also serves basically as the go to 50mm (because of the crop) on my BMCC. The 24mm is faster than the 14mm, but it's also 50% more expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebv Posted July 26, 2013 Author Share Posted July 26, 2013 The samyang/rokinon 24mm is a nice lense except i droped mine, the cheap plastic mount broke off and wasnt able to get support from them just noticed canon make a 20mm f2.8 seem light and short just like the 28mm f1.8 but there is not much info on this one thing is with short wide lense i can balance my tripod and the 5d to get usable walking running cod boat style shots without having to cary a glidecam in my bag its a bit of a compromise as it aint steady like one but i can moove faster and lighter its just the focus kind of makes it more painfull Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peederj Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 The samyang/rokinon 24mm is a nice lense except i droped mine, the cheap plastic mount broke off and wasnt able to get support from them Make more noise about it. Twitter, facebook, etc. Don't let them leave you in the cold. But yes that's not the right lens for steadycam. Ironically, I suggest the kit lens on a Rebel for that if you want to stay Canon. It's light, it's stabilized, it can certainly resolve well enough for 1080p H.264, and the lack of speed/variable aperture isn't a problem as you see you need a deep DoF. If you want something fancy, how about the Voight 20mm pancake for your 5D3? They're something like $600 new and built in the same Cosina plant that makes Zeiss primes. I suggest a narrow shutter angle for flying work because stabilization in post will benefit from a more even and lower degree of blur than suddenly having blurred frames and non-blurred ones. So e.g. 1/100th of a second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebv Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 voight 20mm pancake ? they make these in ef mounts sounds like a nice one 1/100th of a second thats also noted thanks for the advices Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebv Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 For you 5d user heres my way to stabilize my shots and what it does with a 28mmf1.8 plus basic manfroto tripod no post stabilisation https://vimeo.com/71368805 1/50 shutter speed next time I will try 1/100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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