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Hypergonar hi fi 2 and mark III question


hidalgoserra
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Hello people,

 

i have just bough a Canon eos 5d mark III, plugged my helios lense ( with a m42 adaptor) and my hypergonar, before i was working with the 7d and didnt have such result.

 

https://vimeo.com/75398129

 

pass: canon

 

i know about the full sensor of the mark III, but isnt that too extreme? there is something like a setting i should adjust in order to have a full image?

 

Right now i am loosing almost a third of the image with this strange tunnel vision and i am really surprised about it.

 

Thanks for any help

 

p.s.

i have not yet squeeze the video to have a square image.

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Yes, this is a result of the full frame sensor and the wider field of view. You are seeing the sides of the inside of the Hypergonar in this image. But if you do your 2x stretch and then crop to a 1.5x (2.55:1) image, you may be able to get rid of the vignetting.

 

If you really want to shoot without vignetting and keep a 2x stretch, you will need a much longer lens... maybe as much as 105mm or 135mm.

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Well, it's a trade off. You'll be getting 1080P resolution out of either camera.

 

For anamorphic shooting, the greater the crop factor (1.5/1.6x APS-C, 1.86-2.0x Micro Four Thirds, etc.), the lower focal length you can get away with, and the smaller the taking lenses that you can use (for instance, the Helios-44 is much more compact than any 105mm lens that I know of).

 

That being said, full frame will give you better low-light performance and more shallow depth of field, but you will need a longer (and larger) taking lens to go behind your anamorphic, and your rig will be bigger and heavier.

 

Hope that helps!

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Lomo spherical lenses are great, if you can find a good one. But they aren't cheap, and adapters are very expensive too.

 

If it were me, I would go on eBay and look for a cheap fixed 135mm lens in good condition. Pay close attention to the filter thread size, because that is also an indicator of the size of the front element. The smaller it is (49mm, 52mm and 55mm should be good), the better chance that you won't be run into problems with vignetting.

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With a 2x CinemaScope lens the goal is to produce a 2.35:1 aspect ratio image with the 2x compression. In post you take the recorded image and stretch it horizontally 1.5x to (1920x1.5) = 2880 and also compress it vertically 0.75x to (1080x0.75) = 810.
 
Then you keep the middle section 1920 wide, which means you discard the sides. The final corrected image is therefore 1920x810 which is 2.37:1, with black top and bottom borders in a 1920x1080 frame. This is the aspect format used in Hollywood movies and it has the desirable 2x compression.
 
The reason you discard the sides is because the camera records in 16:9. In Hollywood movies they use something closer to 4:3 which is a better fit, but the scope is always 2x.
 
Using this technique with a 5D or full frame camera you have to use longer lenses starting from 85mm upwards.
 
(NOTE The 5D3 can shoot Magic Lantern RAW format which means that you can set a custom aspect ratio. So if you use say 1280x1080 crop then you can use lenses from about 60mm, go to the Magic Lantern site to learn more on this.)
 
Now for the tricks :)
 
I have set up a shot with a 5D and 1.8/85mm lens to demonstrate this to you, using a Moller 2x
 
The photo
transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/testkit.JPG,
shows the kit used for this quick test.
 
I didnt do a perfect align so there is some non symmetric framing. Focus is set to the Beatles record.
 
Then I took the images into Photoshop to simulate a post operation using the technique from the first two paragraphs and they are here:
transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/F18desqueeze.jpg
transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/F28desqueeze.jpg
transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/F4desqueeze.jpg
transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/F56desqueeze.jpg
transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/F8desqueeze.jpg
 
These images are now in the same format that you see from Hollywood,  with a mild fall off in the corners as you stop down
 
You will have even better results using say 90 or 100mm, and if you use Magic Lantern RAW you can record at 1280x1080 then stretch to 2560x1080 which is better than Hollywood 2k format and if you want blu ray just uniform scale by 0.75
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Hey John,

 

First of all thank you to take the time to write all that post to explain the concept, really apreciated bro.

 

Second thing thank you very much for taking...just kidding  :D

 

Anyway, i was preciselly thinking to install magic lantern, i had not check yet as i remember that few months ago only mark ii was supported, but i will give it a try for sure, btw only as a side note, did you know if installing a custom firmware invalidate the warranty as i have just bought that camera yesterday you know :D

 

i was liking honestly the hdri feature that i dont know if its usable at that stage (for videos of course).

 

with the 7d i was not having any problem as i said as it was working decently as you can see here..

 

https://vimeo.com/60781305

 

 

 

But im testing now some new techniques to have a much richer image...

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