starcentral Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Hi, Is it just me, or must you shoot absolutely level to your horizon in order to prevent some image skew/distortion that seems to happen when you are slightly off being level to the ground? Seems more prominent in handheld obviously. Cheers, - anamorph newbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gábor Ember Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 It is not that way. The anamorphic has to be absolutely correctly aligned to the camera sensor, not the horizon. Also you have to use the correct unsqueeze ratio in post processing, otherwise you get distortion when rotating your camera+lens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhessel Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 First, as already stated, make sure that the anamorphic lens is aligned correctly with the camera/lens and make sure that it doesn't rotate for any reason(rotating front lens element for example). Second make sure you are de-squeezing with the proper ratio for your anamorphic, 1.33, 1.5 or 2.0. If have been done and you still notice distortion it can be 1 of 2 things. 1. Anamorphics can have extreme barrel like distortion at wide focal lengths on the edges that may have to be corrected for by removing some lens distortion. I mostly notice this in panning shots. 2. Determine the effective squeeze factor of your anamorphic. When I first started I had a giant projection lens with a 2x squeeze. Due to mounting with clamps and stepping rings it ended up having only a 1.8X stretch. The easiest way to determine the stretch factor is to take a photo perpendicular to a circular object, I used a CD. Take that image into a photo editing app and measure the width and height of the circle, which will be an oval due to the squeeze. Now you can take the height and divide it by the width to get the actual stretch factor and use that instead. stretch = height/width Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Farges Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 @starcentral you are right I noticed the same problem, whatever the anamorphic is well align with the camera and the correct ration is chosen. I shoot a lot handheld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starcentral Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 Hi guys, thanks for all the posts. I feel like such a newbie but why reinvent the wheel right? Better to ask the pros! :) I am using pre-36 (isco brand front and rear) and admit I haven't had much time to play with it after selling a couple limbs to pay for it. But I hope to get it back on the camera soon and shoot some clips. Any suggestions for "good" things to shoot? Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gábor Ember Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 People on the streets. That's what I'm going to do. We already have a christmas market (little shops) built on the main street of the city so there are going to be a lot of people looking for presents. Many people, various objects in the shops and even some christmas lighting. Damn, they start this whole business a little too early... :) Do some shallow DoF shots with light in the background. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starcentral Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 Thanks Gabor. Christmas lights are going up all over the city, so the timing could not be better. Will post some images soon. Shooting with Sony F55. Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthias Malleši� Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 My opinion is that the anamorphic shooting is not really suited for handheld shots. At first I was really caught on choosing the right stretch, but now I opt for stretch that looks just right to me (not necesarry the exact one). I think that is also a magic of it, not being always on 100% real measure. I edit mainly in Vegas, there's SONY DISTORT effect plugin, shifting only Y axis - when necesarry... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Elkerton Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Interesting about varying stretch factors. Does anyone else find sometimes when subjects are closer that alters the factor? I really only shot with my scope lenses for fun because of this, I could'nt use them on a project, too unpredictable for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gábor Ember Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 The squeeze varies yes, usually it gets lower at closer distances (for example 2x at infinity and ~1.66x at 1.5m for my Sun). You can use diopters for close up shots, you can have your gear focused at infinity, this way your squeeze factor remains 2x. Matthias Malleši� 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Elkerton Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 The squeeze varies yes, usually it gets lower at closer distances (for example 2x at infinity and ~1.66x at 1.5m for my Sun). You can use diopters for close up shots, you can have your gear focused at infinity, this way your squeeze factor remains 2x. Thanks for the reply Gabor. Yes this is pretty much what I have found. I suppose once you know the rules you can work around it. Diopters, Longer lenses for close ups perhaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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