AxelMarshall Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Hey there! I am new to the world of anamorphic scopes and I recently pulled the trigger on a Kowa Anamorphic-35 Super Prominar 2x. I received it today, which I was super stoked about but I can't for the life of me get this thing to focus, not even at infinity. I tried my primary camera a Canon R5 as well as a 6D MKII, a 50mm Canon fd taking lens and the Vid Atlantic clamp. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong or how to correct it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated before I pull my hair out. Thank you so much in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxelMarshall Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 Here's a picture of exactly what I have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caleb Genheimer Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 The front knurled ring “locks” the focus, so loosen that first. The wider knurling will then be able to rotate. The infinity mark may not be exact, but shouldn’t be far off. Put both the scope and your 50m at infinity markings and then point at something detailed in the far distance. You should be able to get it sharp with micro adjustments. are you supporting the weight of the scope adequately? An over heavy setup can sag enough to throw out focus. AxelMarshall 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxelMarshall Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 I definitely have the weight supported, this thing is a monster but it's what I have to work with haha. It's not even focusing at infinity which has me really confused. Could it be that I need a single focus solution or a diopter? I thought those things were just optional to make your life easier but it's not focusing at any distance or focal length, not even close Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Edward Weir Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 I'm gonna give it to you straight. If this can't even focus to infinity then you are looking at a big gold CinemaScope paper weight. Even if you could the amount you would pay for the variable diopter would be worth much more then this lens. Also you will have not many choices as far as taking lens and forget going wide. I think a Sankor would be a better way to go and much easier on your back to bring around. If it can't go to infinity forget it. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxelMarshall Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 That's exactly what I was afraid someone would say. I'll dig around and see what I can come up with. I truly appreciate the response! Ian Edward Weir 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Edward Weir Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 10 minutes ago, AxelMarshall said: That's exactly what I was afraid someone would say. I'll dig around and see what I can come up with. I truly appreciate the response! If I was starting from scratch, I would go for a Sankor because they are cheap, all over the place and look really good. That with a ProtoDNA would be a nice combo I think. Bolex 8/19 would be nice to. If you are shooting s35 or Full Frame then unfortunately things get rare and expensive. The Vazen lens might be the best bet after DIY scopes. Or a SIRUI. Good luck! IshootbeforeItalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxelMarshall Posted December 3, 2020 Author Share Posted December 3, 2020 I think I found the problem but I have no idea if it can be fix and if it can, how to correct it. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caleb Genheimer Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Great video, glad you opened it up. People are so precious with these things, but their construction is very simple unlike most other lenses. my bet is on one of your optical groups having worked itself loose and rotated. There’s a front block and a rear block, that’s it. For what it’s worth, many folks don’t use screws anyway, as they’re not always in exactly the right place. You could just glue that tab once you find the right position, or if you’re handy, you could still and tap a couple new holes... just clear out the chips before reassembly. But fist thing first, make sure the two optical groups are not rotating within their assembly. They have to maintain axial orientation. Look up for various videos on “tuning” an anamorphic lens, and you’ll get an idea of the general concept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxelMarshall Posted December 4, 2020 Author Share Posted December 4, 2020 57 minutes ago, Caleb Genheimer said: Great video, glad you opened it up. People are so precious with these things, but their construction is very simple unlike most other lenses. my bet is on one of your optical groups having worked itself loose and rotated. There’s a front block and a rear block, that’s it. For what it’s worth, many folks don’t use screws anyway, as they’re not always in exactly the right place. You could just glue that tab once you find the right position, or if you’re handy, you could still and tap a couple new holes... just clear out the chips before reassembly. But fist thing first, make sure the two optical groups are not rotating within their assembly. They have to maintain axial orientation. Look up for various videos on “tuning” an anamorphic lens, and you’ll get an idea of the general concept. You're awesome Caleb thank you so much for that! I'll dig a little deeper with it and see if the optical groups are rotating on their own and if not, time to mod this puppy! Caleb Genheimer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxelMarshall Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 On 12/3/2020 at 6:56 PM, Caleb Genheimer said: Great video, glad you opened it up. People are so precious with these things, but their construction is very simple unlike most other lenses. my bet is on one of your optical groups having worked itself loose and rotated. There’s a front block and a rear block, that’s it. For what it’s worth, many folks don’t use screws anyway, as they’re not always in exactly the right place. You could just glue that tab once you find the right position, or if you’re handy, you could still and tap a couple new holes... just clear out the chips before reassembly. But fist thing first, make sure the two optical groups are not rotating within their assembly. They have to maintain axial orientation. Look up for various videos on “tuning” an anamorphic lens, and you’ll get an idea of the general concept. Wanted to say thanks again man! It seems to be working well and it's so much fun to use!!! Caleb Genheimer, filmmakereu and Bold 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Chang Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 You should adjust the rear glass's orientation, instead of removing the locking tab from the front glass housing. Best of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxelMarshall Posted January 2, 2021 Author Share Posted January 2, 2021 On 12/16/2020 at 11:32 PM, Jim Chang said: You should adjust the rear glass's orientation, instead of removing the locking tab from the front glass housing. Best of luck. I believe it's cemented in so I'm not quite sure how to remove it. If there's a way to take it off and replace it without damaging the glass I'm all ears though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sai prem Studio Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Kowa anamorphic 35 supar prominar 2x can support full frem . And rapido fvd 35a ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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