ND (Variable vs. Single) Photo + Video

[SRV1981]

Looking to add VND or ND to my newly acquired 70-200 Tamron and 35mm.  Using for Photo/Video combo.  I was naive in the past and didn't realize how much of a color shift many create.

What do you suggest?

1. VND or single ND

2. What brands to reduce color shift?

[Mark Romero 2]

There are a couple of head-to-head comparison videos out there. I will link to one (or two) below.

I think that pretty much any and every ND filter is going to have color / tint shifts. I have been using a three-stop Hoya MC (HMC) ND filter and it definitely results in a blue temp / magenta tint shift. I always have to adjust my white balance slightly amber and slightly green. That's a filter that costs amount $45 for a 77mm size, so it is what I would guess you would call "mid-tier" in terms of pricing.

In doesn't seem to affect sharpness in any noticeable way.

Haven't noticed any vignette with the filter and there isn't too much added flare, but there is some increased blue ghosting when the sun is in frame or just out of frame. 

I use it outdoors when shooting in LOG (which requires ISO 640) so that I can open the aperture from f/22(where diffraction would be heavy) to f/8 (the sharpest aperture for my lens). 

Three stops isn't all that heavy of an ND, so maybe others who have shot with heavier ND filters will provide better information for you.

Slightly Off Topic: For cameras that DON'T have a built in IR filter (or have a very weak one) you will want to get an ND filter with IR filtering, too. I know that Tiffen makes some. I am not sure what the R6 IR filter situation is. It might be great (most likely it is).

I based my choice of the Hoya MC based on Griffin Hammond's video directly below.

Also, I just watched the slanted lens review of some of the more expensive variable ND filters (Polar Pro, Syrup, B+W, and Tiffen) and their conclusion was that the best variable ND was to... use a couple of non-variable ND filters stacked. In THEIR conclusion, cheap Amazon single-density ND filters looked better than the most expensive variable ND filters.

 

 

[leslie]

I'll throw a matt granger video into the ring, but please don't hate me for it. 😳 I like to watch a few different vids to see if i can find a general consensus.

i'll also throw a link in for uv filter comparison as well, just the summary page but it might be handy for someone.  I thought these guys were pretty thorough all in all.

https://www.lenstip.com/113.4-article-UV_filters_test_Description_of_the_results_and_summary.html

 

 

[MrSMW]

I use Freewell VND 2-5 stop filters based on various comparison reviews.

Video only but have used them occasionally with primes wide open on bright days.

Not noticed anything colour cast-wise I am unhappy with. Or even notice.

[bjohn]

VNDs can be useful when you're shooting video with stills lenses that don't have clickless apertures; they can also be useful if you're in a hurry. I have the SLR Magic 77mm VND and the B+W 77mm VND and haven't noticed any problems with them at low stops; if I'm in a very bright location I'll use single ND filters to avoid any risk of X-vignetting or stronger color casts. I do have a set of single ND filters and those are my first choice, but I still use the VNDs in the situations mentioned above (when I know I won't have time to switch filters or when I'm using stills lenses whose aperture rings haven't been declicked). When shooting stills I use the single NDs exclusively; for some reason I find the VNDs have a more noticeable impact on the image.

[scotchtape]

The new freewell "magnetic VND" (not to be confused with their other similar sounding offerings) looks really innovative, I'll probably pick up one when they're more available.  Seriously innovative and flexible, VND/CPL/Mist system.

All of the VNDs will produce some color shift. Many of the newer ones have negligible effects on sharpness, all of them also have the polarization effect.

The fixed NDs are more annoying to use but of course better.

I currently have 2x SLR Magic Variable ND filters (and the 4 stop IEND), they are one of the better price/performance.  A tiny hit to sharpness, slight warming of image, but you can adjust the polarization angle, plus I think affordable for the quality. They obviously have no marketing department compared to Polar Pro / Freewell but I think it's a great pick.

Just based on quality I would say any of the Polar Pro / Freewell (new ones) / SLR Magic / Auorara VNDs are the "best" quality right now.

I also just picked up the SLR Magic fixed ND screw on set solely for the 1 stop filter as the FX6 END starts at 2.

If you are "serious" about it you'll end up with a bunch anyways. Don't bother with any of the no name cheapo ones, or even the branded cheapo ones. Too much color shift and sharpness loss. The Tiffens VND is just the worst and inconsistent for the price.  Unforgiveable!

[kye]

For those that use fixed NDs, I'm curious how you dial in the right exposure.

What I mean is, the reason to use an ND at all is to have a set shutter speed for nicer motion / movement.  Aesthetically there is a LARGE difference between, say, 180 shutter and 90 shutter, and 45 shutter is much closer aesthetically to no shutter than to 180.  This means that you'll set your SS, then have to adjust exposure either in post, using ISO, or using Aperture.

I'm thinking most codecs are ok to adjust <1 stops, so you could be using that to fine-tune, but that means that you're either changing the amount of noise / colour rendering by changing ISO away from base ISO, or you're adjusting aperture, which impacts your background defocusing.

Are you carrying a set of 1 stop, 2 stop, 4 stop, and 8 stop NDs?  If not, you'll have to work out what to adjust to fine-tune, and none of the other things come without a creative cost.  If you are carrying a full set of fixed NDs, how fast do you find it is to adjust exposure when setting up a shot?

[stephen]

I have used both VND and fixed ND. VNDs are OK when shooting RAW as it is relatively easy to correct the color shift.

For fixed NDs always use 180 degree shutter when shooting at 24fps and depending on the available light choose an ND which is a little bit stronger and adjust (usually raise) ISO for correct exposure. Or vary with aperture if possible. For examaple if I shoot at f8  may raise it to f11 or lower it to f5.6. If aperture is open and can't close it for esthetic reasons (blurred background) then ISO is the only option.   You don't have to worry about base ISO because all modern cameras have huge latitude. Several stops (3-5) above and under the base ISO. Even if you overexpose 1-2-3 stops or under expose 1-2 stops you don't lose information or dynamic range. See for example Panasonic S1/S5 tests in 10bit 4:2:2 V-Log internal on slashcam.de or this test

 

Normally use no more than 3 NDs and sometimes even 2. 3, 6, 8/9 stops, or only 3, 6 stops and then by stacking both 3 and 6 stops ND get 9 stops. This works with most lenses but not all. Vignetting at the corners is not a problem with most lenses because shoot at 2:1 ratio for video and corners are usually cut out of the picture.

[stephen]

Depending on lighting using fixed ND could be OK or major pain in the neck. If light doesn't change often, there is no need to change ND filter as well. But if it does change or you move often from bright sunlight to deep shadows then screwing and unscrewing filters becomes really annoying. At least for me. There are magnetic fixed ND filters as well. They are more expensive but IMHO they will greatly improve usability of fixed NDs. Am willing to try them

[stephen]

Fixed magnetic ND filters

https://fstoppers.com/reviews/review-haida-nanopro-magnetic-nd-filters-570861