Zeiss Jenna p6 lenses

[Julian]

For instance if I had a p6 to nikon mount adapter, could I then use them on the nikon speedbooster?  

 

Yep, you can!

[andy lee]

yes you can use them with adapters on speedboosters as you have just described it will work

[RupertPupkin]

Wow that is awesome news, not sure what led me to believe it wouldn't work....

 

Can you use any combination of adapters with speedboosters or is this just a special scenario because of the larger image circle?

 

And same goes for the BMPCC specific speedbooster?

 

Thanks guys

[Julian]

If you can adapt a lens to Nikon mount, you can use it with the right adapter on the Speed Booster (with Nikon mount). Just think of it as giving your camera a new mount.

 

Of course the lens must have a image circle that is big enough. But I don't think there is any Nikon lens that has a image circle that's too small for the BMPCC + Speed Booster. Even with the BMPCC speed booster you still have a ~aps-c-crop.

[Lucian]

I've been looking into switching over to a m43 camera, most likely the gh4 or a blackmagic.  However, with the crop of a m43 camera, these lenses would be VERY long.

 

My problem in a nutshell. I use a d16 which is s16 sized sensor, so even with SB it's only aps-c ish size so the p6 Ziess lenses are still long. I'd need a good matching 35mm to cover me at the wider end and max out the iscorama to vignette point.

 

On my last short shot on gh2 with iscorama, I ended up using mir 35mm about 70% of the film as wideness was always a struggle indoors, and then for any sort of stabilized moving shots the 58mm helios was too shaky.

[Sean Cunningham]

My problem in a nutshell. I use a d16 which is s16 sized sensor, so even with SB it's only aps-c ish size so the p6 Ziess lenses are still long. I'd need a good matching 35mm to cover me at the wider end and max out the iscorama to vignette point.

 

On my last short shot on gh2 with iscorama, I ended up using mir 35mm about 70% of the film as wideness was always a struggle indoors, and then for any sort of stabilized moving shots the 58mm helios was too shaky.

 

There's definitely wider lenses to build out a Jena set.  Here's one of the best threads I've found on the subject, if you're not already familiar with it:

 

http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?91477-Which-Zeiss-Jena-set-to-build

 

...down at #9 lists what appears to be a full set.  The f/2.4 Flekogon looks pretty decent in what little poking around I've done.  At APS-C f/2.4 is decent.  Assuming Metabones produces a Speedbooster for the D16 as good or better than the one for the BMPCC, you'd be looking at an equivalent f/3.5 or so compared to anamorphic 35mm, but that's using the BMPCC numbers.  The D16 could be better in this application because supposedly they'll open up the height on the sensor, one of these days, when they stop messing about with silly f/4 c-mounts and leather bags.  

 

Regardless of scaling up to APS-C a 16:9 sensor is still at a disadvantage because vertically it's still highly cropped compared to anamorphic 35mm on film.  Supposedly the D16 will eventually be 4:3 for anamorphic purposes and that will be pretty major.  Still, keep in mind the stops used on real films, even those considered "wide open" are rarely terribly big.  Django Unchained was shot mostly at 40mm - 50mm and around T3.1 while Boogie Nights was also mostly 40mm and 50mm, T2.8 for night (on really slow stock) and T4 for most everything else.  

 

One of the most wide open anamorphic films in recent memory, some might say irresponsibly so, is Killing Them Softly and they did shoot mostly in the lower T2 ranges but that's a very rare choice.  It's spherical films that need to be more open, because the act of cropping throws every focal more telephoto compared to anamorphic, forcing the camera to back off, pushing the subject in the direction of the hyperfocal, reducing bokeh.  That's part of what's to blame for Super35's reputation for sharpness and greater ease of focus.

 

On your GH2 + Iscorama project it makes total sense, the problems you encountered, because that 35mm was the equivalent of shooting with a 55mm lens in anamorphic 35mm, a fairly "normal" focal length, not terribly wide.  That Helios was the equivalent to shooting a 94mm lens in the anamorphic 35mm film format (anamorphic frame height = 17.5mm and the GH2 sensor height = 10.7mm so that's a 1.64 factor).

[Lucian]

Great post Sean. Thanks for link, i'm going to pour over it, I guess the m42 Jenas will mix okay with the p6. Yeah I think for no/low budget personal projects I inevitable do, aperture is always a little more fluid than I would like as controlling light is expensive :)

 

I get quite overwhelmed with crop factor and focal length calculations, esp with the addition of the iscorama. Easiest way for me is to just find the maximum width I can go before vignette of the iscorama for whatever sensor i'm using. Because I know just from experience that is where I will end up spending most of my time, then go up a bit for the closeups. 2 lenses doing most of the work with the occasional long lens coming in for artistic or functional effect.

 

leaving a few mm for diopters/filters the max for GH2 it's about 30mm , d16 + the bmpcc 0.74x speedbooster will be about about 35mm. Which should be great as a 35mm normal, 50mm-ish for portrait/closeup are easy focal lengths to find quality lenses in.

 

I thought 1.5x stretch of the anamorphic makes a 35mm more equiv to a 25mm?

[andy lee]

stick a Century Optics x 0.7 wide angle adaptor INFRONT of your Isco and you get a sharper wider image

Ive done this alot it works well

 

you can use your longer lenses and keep the character of them that you like

 

the rear of the Century is 70mm + and its almost optically neutral ......

 

need to be on a rig as its big and heavy

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Century-0-7x-Wide-Angle-Converter-Lens-for-Sony-HDR-FX1-HVR-Z1U-/301145900594?pt=UK_Photography_Conversion_Lenses&hash=item461db1c632

 

I converted mine took of the bayonet mount and it now has a 77mm rear thread on it

[Lucian]

Ha! amazing! this would be incredible,  surely it can't be that easy! 

 

was it hard to mod to a 77mm thread or just a matter of removing the bayonet?

stick a Century Optics x 0.7 wide angle adaptor INFONT of your Isco and you get a sharper wider image

Ive done this alot it works well

 

you can use your longer lenses and keep the character of them that you like

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Century-0-7x-Wide-Angle-Converter-Lens-for-Sony-HDR-FX1-HVR-Z1U-/301145900594?pt=UK_Photography_Conversion_Lenses&hash=item461db1c632

 

I converted mine took of the bayonet mount and it now has a 77mm rear thread on it

[andy lee]

yes its that easy , Ive posted about how to do this before in the Anamorphic section

 

the Century is a very high quality piece of glass made by Schneider , its big and heavy but does the job very well

the bayonet at the back comes off with a few grub screws, I then added a 77mm thead , so I can use a 77-72 step down ring as needs be as this is a very good x0.7 wide adaptor for any lens not just anamorphics , so I use it on any lens with 77, 72 and 67mm fronts

[Sean Cunningham]

...

I thought 1.5x stretch of the anamorphic makes a 35mm more equiv to a 25mm?

 

Yes, but what that ultimately means is different based on the vertical height of your sensor.  Your vertical FOV determines your framing and distance to subject which directly feeds into your DOF at a given stop.   That may or may not be important to you depending on if you're using theatrical anamorphic films as your reference.  

[Lucian]

I'm going to give this a go! how exactly did you add a thread if you don't mind me asking, I can't seem to dig it up from any of your past discussions on here about WA adapters. 

 

I then added a 77mm thead , so I can use a 77-72 step down ring as needs be.

[andy lee]

remove the bayonet mount it is about 1 cm deep , so you now need to regain that height for your 77mm thread , so I bought 4 x 77 filters cheap UV's and took the glass out screwed them all together to regain that 1 cm depth , then epoxy glued them onto the rear area where the bayonet was , its simple to do

 

you could use 72mm filter if you wanted there is just enough diameter at the rear to do this , but I did 77 so I can remove the last ring and add a 77-72mm step rring if need be for my 72mm fron Canon Lenses etc.

[Lucian]

Thanks Andy, you are a champ! This will go a long a long way to solving my woes when shooting anamorphic, not to mention give my favorite character lenses more versatility!

 

I'm going to go with 77mm as that is the front thread size of the iscorama.

[andy lee]

get a 15mm rig to hold it with a substantial lens support on the end of the rods to hold the Century ,

as you have a camera + taking lens + isco + century = broken lens mount if you are not careful.......it will flex

 

the Century is the biggest single piece of glass I have - its massive!!!!

[andy lee]

for smaller anamorphics the Olympus x0,8 wide adaptor is good , I use that with my Schneider and isco gold lenses

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Olympus-WCON080E-B28-Wide-Angle-Lens-/230972684603?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35c70b793b

 

rear is 55mm

[Lucian]

Yes for sure, I always use 15mm rig with the iscorama. Lol might need a second lens support with this thing.

[andy lee]

I cable tie it round the rods just to make sure there is no vertical lift by accident too

[Lucian]

That's a good idea, I've had lenses swing off the support before on long shoots when I am not thinking sharp.

[andy lee]

yes easy to do .....at the end of the take you swing the camera down and the bloody lens falls off the rods !!