j.f.r. Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 What are peoples opinion on GH3 vs GH4. I feel GH4 possibly looks more like video when compared to GH3. I feel the extra sharpness of the GH4 is really something that imo doesn't look right. I would have much preferred they would have simply worked on improved iso and dynamic range. Can anyway please help me with some nice neutral settings? Everything I've tried on the GH4 looks too sharp or just lifeless + too much yellow in skin tones and then too much magenta. I'm finding it almost impossible to get the actual color I want out of the GH4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usiak Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 "Filmlook" is up to you, not camera :) I've already made 10min film 100% shooted on GH4 and 12-35mm and quickly forgot about the Canon DSLR's :) GH4 is awesome. check a sample of this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estarkey7 Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 What are peoples opinion on GH3 vs GH4. I feel GH4 possibly looks more like video when compared to GH3. I feel the extra sharpness of the GH4 is really something that imo doesn't look right. I would have much preferred they would have simply worked on improved iso and dynamic range. Can anyway please help me with some nice neutral settings? Everything I've tried on the GH4 looks too sharp or just lifeless + too much yellow in skin tones and then too much magenta. I'm finding it almost impossible to get the actual color I want out of the GH4 Cine V -5,-5,-1,-5,+1. Master Pedestal +15. That +1 will keep people from looking like pumpkins ;) . The -1 on noise reduction will take a little edge off the sharpness. I know the master pedestal has been the source for the noise in Cine D, but someone on one of the many forums I surf mentioned settings close to these and they worked great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Andrew Reid Posted October 1, 2014 Author Administrators Share Posted October 1, 2014 "Filmlook" is up to you, not camera :) I've already made 10min film 100% shooted on GH4 and 12-35mm and quickly forgot about the Canon DSLR's :) GH4 is awesome. check a sample of this: Nice. Let's see your next film without a camera in that case :) Hand gestures and a projector light! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usiak Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Nice. Let's see your next film without a camera in that case :) Hand gestures and a projector light! Ook, just hold my beer and watch ;) Just saying, thing about filmlook/videolook is overused in GH4 case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cinegain Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 There's new firmware guys (and girls): http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/dsc/download/fts/dl/gh4.html (as well for the FZ1000 ). ;) Cine V -5,-5,-1,-5,+1. Master Pedestal +15. That +1 will keep people from looking like pumpkins ;) . The -1 on noise reduction will take a little edge off the sharpness. I know the master pedestal has been the source for the noise in Cine D, but someone on one of the many forums I surf mentioned settings close to these and they worked great. This approach to find the cleanest settings was pretty nice: However... the Master Pedestal (3:18)... Matt Frazer talks about it here as well as other settings you need to think about, very informative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inazuma Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 I haven't got the GH4 but from what I've seen, it looks like if you avoid the Cine profiles and shadow lifting, you can avoid strange skin tones that look too orange or flat. You may also have to desaturate those colours a bit in post. I think a lot of it depends on situation really. I mean in this video, the 5d's skins are more orange and the blackmagic's look a bit yellow/dead, whilst the gh4 is actually producing some quite nice tones. It really does all depend on situation and picture style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pascal Garnier Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 After trying out various settings with the GH4, my impression is that the best way to shoot with it is as with my G6. One of my last shoots with my G6 was for an Ikea commercial. The other cameras on that shoot were Sony F5's and F55's. In the final edit, there's no way to tell which shots were my G6 and which were the Sony's. Same thing with another shoot with Sony's à nd a Red. On the G6, I shot with the NATURAL profile with contrast, sharpness, noise reduction all the way down. Saturation and hue are dialled in depending on what the scene needs. I don't touch Master Pedestal at all, nor do I mess with the shadows and highlights. This gives me a very flat image with proper skintones that grades very well and carries none of the noise that seems to plague the GH4 when shooting with Cinelike D or V. I also suggest to keep the ISO at 400 (even though 800 is supposed to be the native ISO) and use ND filters when needed. Or adjust the shutterspeed if you're after that look or have no ND. I also use a Speedbooster clone with fast Canon FD lenses, which gives a decent low light performance with the GH4. Finally, I record most of my serious work on an Atomos Ninja, so the 10-bit definitely helps, as does shooting in 4K and having the camera downconvert to 2K through HDMI. JazzBox 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inazuma Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 @Pascal I would not rule out the curve control just yet. I find it can make a nice difference to set it to -5 highlights. I haven't done any before/after tests with it on skin but I would image it wouldn't make a difference because it only works on the brightest parts of the image. http://imgur.com/ff542pW,aJugtLQ#0 (Click between "First Image" and "second image" at the top for before/after) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xavier Plagaro Mussard Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Is there an alternative to the expensive 12-25mm f2.8 lens?? Not manual lenses, something with autofocus. I never had a GHx camera, the autofocus is more about focus points like Canon or face-detection like Sony?? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzBox Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 After trying out various settings with the GH4, my impression is that the best way to shoot with it is as with my G6. I completely agree! I also come from G6 and I've found that for most of my shots the "Natural" profile with all the sharpness and contrast down give me the more... natural results, while Cinelike D and V probably just have to be used as they are, without touching too much the setting, otherwise some artifacts are near... But the GH4 codec is so good that I had great results even with the Cinelike D profile with all contrast down and Master Pedestal +7.... I'm simply LOVE with GH4 and G6 :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nahua Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Is there an alternative to the expensive 12-25mm f2.8 lens?? Not manual lenses, something with autofocus. I never had a GHx camera, the autofocus is more about focus points like Canon or face-detection like Sony?? Thanks! Unfortunately the 12-35mm is the best lens I think. As for AF, you can do single point, face tracking, mulit-point, and with single point you can use the touch screen to focus even when you're shooting. It's very good. You can use a cheap lens like the 14-42 if you must, but I recommend locking it on a tripod. Only new lenses with Power OIS have good optical stabilization. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HappyCatFilms Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Anyone figure out how to use the EF-M43 Speed Booster with the GH4? Sure, optically it just works, and I can control aperture electronically, but the Green and Advanced modes are less than clear from the instructions on Metabones' web site, which are detailed for the Sony cameras (and never says which method activates which mode). What does the little dial on the side of the adapter do? There's no documentation at all that came with the Speed Booster. Thanks in advance, - Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nahua Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 @HappyCatFilms I didn't think there was any mode switch. The port on the side is for micro USB power, and the rocker switch is a manual control of the aperture iris with the micro USB connected. Also there's no AF control of EF lenses, unlike the Sony version of the speedbooster. I don't think any of the speedboosters come with a manual unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HappyCatFilms Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 @nahua Thanks. I know about the no AF control. Sucks, but it is what it is! The optical benefits are the main draw. Sure be nice if MB got better at documentation. I've been trying to download the latest firmware, but their site doesn't cooperate. They even said they fixed it, to no avail. Not your issue - just venting! Thanks again for taking the time to reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AerialVue Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Hi I am new on here and would like to ask some advice on camera settings for flying my GH3 and GH4. Obviousley I cannot adjust the settings once the camera is airborne. We have been caught out a coulpe of time shooting in manual when there has been a sudden light change. Is auto really a no no. Below is an image of the day in question when we had to chase the Steam train along the viaduct.. you ever tried telling a steam train to reset? ;-) andy lee 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy lee Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 yes auto really is a no no - as the camera will decide to alter the settings when you dont want it to . Fully manual for making films is the way to go. set the iso manually - set the apperture set the shutter speed also set the white balance manually too no auto - ever!! now if you have a gh4 you can use the wifi to manually alter settings when the camera is airbourne - test it first !! on the ground! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AerialVue Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 yes auto really is a no no - as the camera will decide to alter the settings when you dont want it to . Fully manual for making films is the way to go. set the iso manually - set the apperture set the shutter speed also set the white balance manually too no auto - ever!! now if you have a gh4 you can use the wifi to manually alter settings when the camera is airbourne - test it first !! on the ground! Hi Andy. Thanks for the rely. Slight problem is the speed at which we can adapt the settings. WiFi is an option but the WiFi on the GH3/4 operates at 2.4ghz same as the machine control frequency. It should not be an issue because of spread spectrum technology but when I m at 400m out getting it back in range of the iPad takes time and I may have missed the shot. Still can't see my post as I aint had one approved yet. How long does that process normally take? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sudopera Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Here is a comparison of externally recorded 4K from GH4 and A7s http://cameras.reviewed.com/features/the-mirrorless-4k-showdown-sony-a7s-vs-panasonic-gh4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izhar Ashdot Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 The GH2's learning curve was almost flat, especially with the high bitrate hacks. I learned to get great results in a matter of days. The GH4 is a different beast altogether. I've had it for over 4 months and I'm in a constant process of learning how to shoot great video, learning new tricks everyday. During the past week, I've been experimenting with a Rectimascop 48/2x anamorphic lens. I'm glad I've waited all these months before buying it, getting to know the camera and it's behaviour and of course the great new 4K photo mode. Anamorphic on the GH4 is what I've wished for since being seduced by the DSLR revolution, over 4 years ago. There's still so much to learn, but here are a couple of my first tests. nahua 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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