Inazuma Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Good summary Matt :) @jase: Theres actually two methods of manual focus with that lens. One is to pull the ring back, which reveals a distance marker. In this mode, the ring stops at either end of the scale, so you know when you're hitting max or min focus. Only issue is if you rotate the ring too slowly, the focus will "pop" rather than transition like a normal manual lens. The other mode is if you change the camera's AF/MF switch to MF, the ring will change the lens' focus like a normal lens but theres no distance markers or stops at each end to help guide you. @Daniel Since they're one inch sensor cameras, the DR and noise performance won't be as good (I owned an RX100 last year for a few months) and you don't get as shallow DOF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jase Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 @jase: Theres actually two methods of manual focus with that lens. One is to pull the ring back, which reveals a distance marker. In this mode, the ring stops at either end of the scale, so you know when you're hitting max or min focus. Only issue is if you rotate the ring too slowly, the focus will "pop" rather than transition like a normal manual lens. The other mode is if you change the camera's AF/MF switch to MF, the ring will change the lens' focus like a normal lens but theres no distance markers or stops at each end to help guide you. I know that behaviour - I once had the Olympus 12mm f2.0 which works about the same. However, as much as i like the scale, i dislike this "pop" effect since changing the focus smoothly is not possible... A lens like those from Olympus with smooth focusing would be my wet dream. JazzBox 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JazzBox Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 I just bought a 12 and I was disappointed from this "problem". But the images' quality is so good that I have to accept this annoying transition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moshimo Garcia Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Thanks everyone for the replies, a special thanks to you Matt for laying out the pros and cons so well. Thanks for letting me piggyback on your thread Daniel! They have been EXTREMELY helpful. Honestly, though, I think that I am going to end up with the BPMCC based upon you all's critique and how it has a very filmic image. The one big regret I see myself having is definitely the battery life, though. But before I press the purchase button on Amazon...I am still extremely in love with the a7s, so, I hope to own a future iteration once I get some good experience under my belt. From what I can tell based on their specs, do the a6000 and the a7s share the same mounting system? And if so, does that mean buying natives on the a6k could be used down the road for the a7s and eventual a7s(2) to come? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inazuma Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Same mounting system but most lenses in the system are designed for the a6000's smaller (APS-C sensor). For lenses that will work on both APS-C and full frame you'd have to look for "FE" in the product name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utsira Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Daniel asked me about the A6000 vs the G6 on the sticky A6000 thread, I thought I'd link to it here as people have been discussing these two cameras: > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Thanks everyone for the replies, a special thanks to you Matt for laying out the pros and cons so well. Thanks for letting me piggyback on your thread Daniel! They have been EXTREMELY helpful. Honestly, though, I think that I am going to end up with the BPMCC based upon you all's critique and how it has a very filmic image. The one big regret I see myself having is definitely the battery life, though. But before I press the purchase button on Amazon...I am still extremely in love with the a7s, so, I hope to own a future iteration once I get some good experience under my belt. From what I can tell based on their specs, do the a6000 and the a7s share the same mounting system? And if so, does that mean buying natives on the a6k could be used down the road for the a7s and eventual a7s(2) to come? Battery life on the BMPCC is an inconvenience, not a deal breaker unless you are shooting interviews or events (this isn't really the camera for event stuff anyway). Just buy 3-6 extra aftermarket batteries. They are cheap (about $15 each) and tiny, so you can always have a few in your pocket. I usually find 1-2 batteries enough to get me through filling one 64 GB card when shooting in Prores HQ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brellivids Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 G6 used or GH2 used is what I would probably go for.. Then add 64GB Transcend U3 card ~42 euros (works with hacked GH2 and Sony A7s .. I'm not sure was it Andrew who just wrote that A7s needs SDXC card to work properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Acuña Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 I would like to have the sensor size of the A6000, but i prefer the colors of the Gx7. So I think I will go with the Gx7 and buy a Metabones speedbooster, problem is that it is to expensive so I think I would go for the cheaper version : Mitakon. I still don't know what version of it I will buy or even what lens. So what do you guys think? Is it a good or bad idea? Should I wait and save for a Metabones speedbooster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bioskop.Inc Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I would like to have the sensor size of the A6000, but i prefer the colors of the Gx7. So I think I will go with the Gx7 and buy a Metabones speedbooster, problem is that it is to expensive so I think I would go for the cheaper version : Mitakon. I still don't know what version of it I will buy or even what lens. So what do you guys think? Is it a good or bad idea? Should I wait and save for a Metabones speedbooster? If you don't have the cash for the MB speedbooster go for one of the cheaper ones, they really aren't that far off & I think that some of the RJ ones are on v2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inazuma Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Andy uses the Mitakon which works really well for him. Only thing is that this adapter does not have aperture control, so you cant use modern Nikon lenses with it. I used to have the Camdiox/RJ which works alright but have since upgraded to the Metabones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Acuña Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 Andy uses the Mitakon which works really well for him. Only thing is that this adapter does not have aperture control, so you cant use modern Nikon lenses with it. I used to have the Camdiox/RJ which works alright but have since upgraded to the Metabones So I would have to buy full manual lenses right? Which one would you buy? The Mitakon Canon EF lens to MFT or the Nikon one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inazuma Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Hah that's a really loaded question. You should post it in the Lenses thread at the top of the forum and give details about what you're looking for :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy lee Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 if you buy a Canon EF- Micro 4/3 Mitakon Lens Turbo you can use alot of lenses of it , Canon EF , Nikon , Pentax, M42 screw thread , Olymous , etc etc etc by using cheap metal adaptor off ebay if you buy Nikon -micro 4/3 Lens Turbo - you are stuck with just Nikon lenses due to the flange focal distance of Nikon lenses I have both the Nikon and the Canon EF Lens Turbos as I shoot with 2 camera most of the time , and I use alot of Nikon Zoom lenses The Lens Turbo is very good - I highly recomend it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzynormal Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I'm going to go out and check on the 100 this morning @Bic Camera. I'm not entirely enamored with the camera being a fixed lens and all, but I've been looking to sell some of my old redband canon glass, and that would give me enough to buy the LX. For what I do, small fits my style and it's cheap, so why not? I don't expect it to be perfect and won't worry too much about a bit of moiré in a 4k image. For what it's worth, I'm shooting a doc on a Gx7 and a Gm1 while here in Japan, so I'm used to working with smaller consumer gear; prefer it, actually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Acuña Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 What do you guys think about the Sony a5100? Is it really that better than the a6000 because of xavc-s? There is not much information out there, so I am turning to you guys, once more :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Acuña Posted November 1, 2014 Author Share Posted November 1, 2014 So I finally made a list of what I might buy (I hope it won't change) So I am planning on buying a GX7 with a Mitakon Canon EF Lens to Micro Four Thirds Camera Lens Turbo Adapter Mark I and a Nikon 28mm f2.8 AIS So the only concerns I have now is how good is the Mitakon lens turbo? are there any other options (apart from Metabones), I heard of th RJ lens turbo but I don't know if it is better, or should I take an other one with a different mount (Nikon mount)? I know that I have to buy an adapter for the lens (Nikon F to Canon EOS Camera), I just hope it won't create any problem. So what do you think? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevonChris Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Nikon 28mm f2.8 AIS I have one of these. It is a superb lens. Make sure that you buy the CRC (close range correction) version. It is as sharp as the reviews say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Acuña Posted November 1, 2014 Author Share Posted November 1, 2014 I have one of these. It is a superb lens. Make sure that you buy the CRC (close range correction) version. It is as sharp as the reviews say. Ok thank you, but how can I know if it is the CRC version? I am buying it on Keh.com https://www.keh.com/220798/nikon-28mm-f-2-8-series-e-ais-manual-focus-lens-52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikkor Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 That's the cheapo version that has a different optical formula. The one you want is the 28 2.8 Ai-s. Look on google how to differentiate ai-s from others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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