Shooting 3D with DSLR

[milandirector]

Hi all,

 

I have request from a client to shoot in 3D. Possibly a commercial and a short promo film. I never shot in 3D so I guess this is great opportunity to try it out, since I kind of have to.

I just have no idea what set up i need. Is it possible to shoot with DSLR. I shoot with 5D mark 3 mainly. What cameras do you suggest to be used (something not extremely expensive to buy or rent), also what kind of mount do I need, and how is it possible to sync up the cams. Does syncing the cameras happen with some external hardware? I know that BM URSA can be synced for 3D shooting, but for now it is too expensive option. Also what lenses work best for 3D? Is it better to shoot it RAW or is it fine with codec (or on external recorder in prores)?

Any help from your experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much.

Cheers!

 

 

[Inazuma]

This is a really loaded question dude! You should have done a little more research before saying yes. 

I think it's difficult to do 3D with DSLR's because the lenses will be too far apart from eachother.

Everything has to be aligned perfectly whilst shooting. 1mm off on the positions of the lenses or focus and you're screwed.

It's really very technical. Not something you can just 'try out' like you would spin a basketball on your finger. 

I guess the most practical method for an indie DP is to buy a camera that has a 3D lens in its system. Have a look at the Panasonic 12.5mm 3D lens for its Lumix cameras or the Samsung NX 45mm 3D lens for its NX system. 

There is also this thing which I saw two years ago and is finally, finally coming out soon: http://kulainventions.com/products/kula-deeper

[jcs]

The most flexible high quality solution uses two cameras and a half-silvered mirror (beam splitter). This allows the cameras to get close enough together to prevent hyper stereo (for normal/close ups). Otherwise you can mount one camera upside down to get the bodies close together (but still too far apart for close ups: need to be close- about 2.5 inches between the center of the lenses). This solution provides the highest quality- used in high-end film, etc. It allows control of stereo depth by moving cameras closer or farther apart. For objects far away, the cameras can be placed on a simple side-by-side rig. Genlock/camera sync is best, however syncing via sound can work pretty well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rW2WXkFjno 

If you can find something like this to rent: http://www.3dfilmfactory.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=91 it shouldn't cost much more than a DSLR fee.

Probably easiest to try to rent a pro stereo 3D camera (Panasonic, etc.). I have a Sony TD10 I should probably sell (consumer quality only).

GoPro is another option: http://www.provideocoalition.com/gopro-dual-hero-3d

Efficiently editing stereo 3D is tricky. Cineform + Premiere was extremely buggy, as was direct editing in Vegas (both back in 2010; Sony TD10 footage). Resolve now supports direct stereo 3D editing- might be a good choice.

 

[IronFilm]

The cheapest decently high quality way to do it with an ICL is to buy a Samsung NX300 and get their 3D 45mm f/1.8 lens. (I've got the NX300 myself, will get the lens sometime soon)

[leeys]

I second the recommendation for the Samsung; alignment is a pain, and separation is likely to be too large. 

[jcs]

The challenge with integrated 3D lens is the separation isn't adjustable and the distance is too small (less than 1"?). For normal views it needs to be around 2.5". The resolution will be halved as well? I built a rig out of wood and fiberglass from scratch- alignment wasn't an issue.

The 3D photos were made with this rig: http://www.brightland.com/Akumira/Akumira.htm

[IronFilm]

Check out CHDK, if I remember right that project has got some scripts/options to shoot in 3D with two P&S Canon cameras.